NOBLNG

I wanna build that red ‘Vette too?, but I don’t have a clue how to go about it....or the skills. But if you are going to do it Eric, I guess I can get my get my thrills vicariously.? I’ll be watching in anticipation!

It was built here a while back. The interior is weird because of the electrics.

Why is it that metallic paints (laquers) seem to take a lot more flushes to clean out of the airbrush cup than solid colors??

1)PeeWee’s big adventure. 2)Island of Dr. Moreau.

This is gloss black with one coat of Tamiya flat clear on top sprayed from a distance of 8”-10”. I did the gloss black first so that I could apply the decals.

Another thing you can do is chuck a small drill bit backwards in a pin vise and use it as a scriber. Use a very light touch as they are brittle! This is a #80 (0.0135”).

No point in starting another thread on this I guess. This is my first attempt at a 3” chop on the Revell ‘32. I found this thread after the fact, so I dropped the C pillar straight down. Accordingly, I had to add a little to the B pillar. I made a slit at the top and bottom of the A pillar and leaned them forward and back till they lined up. The sprue glue I used for filler works great...but it takes a long time to dry into solid styrene again. If I was to do it again (I mean WHEN I do it again?) I may cut the entire A pillar out and then file the length down at the proper angles to fit? All in all, I am happy with the results. Edit: I see some pics of these cars where the upper hinge is on the A pillar, and some where it is just below the belt line. Is that a stock difference, or a modification? Obviously I need to move it down so they will be aligned. Thanks.

Beautiful work!?

I prefer the style side. I’ve never really liked stepsides on any trucks later than the early or mid sixties. Once they lost the front fenders and went to a wide flat hood the stepside seems out of place in my mind.?

The willys die cast arrived today, the other two I picked up last week.

Type it into e-bay. There are a couple of them on there. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunze-Sangyo-High-Tech-Model-Cobra-Daytona-Coupe-1-24-Scale-Professional-Kit/164492521120?hash=item264c84aea0:g:QmUAAOSwiddfo-u4

Great work on that trailer!

Fantastic work you’re doing here Eric!

And a cool Willys.

Apparently die cast can be soldered if it is copper plated first. I came across a couple of youtube videos where they used a copper plating kit from Micro Mark and then regular solder. I don’t think it would work very well for the amount I want to add, so I will likely stick with the Milliput or J-B.

Interesting! I have a similar project brewing in the back of my mind. Please proceed.?

This thing looks similar. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/B-G-Racing-Quick-Lift-Lifting-Jack-For-Rally-Car-Powder-Coated-154P/302230002905?epid=573262103&hash=item465e4fdcd9:g:iYUAAOSwBYpdzQsv

I sure like this one!

Thanks. I saw a Jeepster years ago on a 4x4 forum that had the front end of a Willys truck grafted on. It was pretty cool!

Thanks. Yes it would be nice! I just ordered another one off e-bay. I may try to cast that one....either by finding someone local who can do it for me or maybe cutting it up and casting flatter sections myself?

I want to glue round styrene rod to the edge of a styrene sheet so that it is flush on one side. I have done it before by filing a bevel on the edge of the sheet and laying both on a flat surface. I like to use Tamiya extra thin cement for this. The problem is the cement wicks under the parts and they are damaged by getting stuck to the surface. I came up with this idea to leave a void right where the glue joint will be. Now the cement will only seep along the joint itself.

The green looks much nicer.

Nicely done!

Beautiful interior....the whole thing is beautiful.

The front end made me think of a ‘67-‘69 Barracuda.?