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Wow Bill! Your attention to detail is astounding!

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How long does the Elmers take to dry before it can be handled? And does it have any strength, or does that have to be built into the joint design?

I primed and painted all the miscellaneous parts for my '41 Chevy and put the finishing touches on the engine.

You can wipe it down with a used dryer sheet to remove any static electricity before painting. It also works great before using panel line accent.

So the bottled primer performed well, and had nothing to do with the reason for stripping the paint? Thanks.

It is a very thick liquid. I have a bottle of it in white also, and the solids will settle out of the solvent after sitting. Neither of mine came with a brush on the lid. I think I will stick with the aerosol stuff! I have brushed Tamiya lacquer over top of the grey stuff and it ate into the primer. Maybe it wasn't dry enough.

This is the Aurora kit that I got at a flea market for cheap. I don't know if it's the same tooling as the one you are looking at?

Are these two the same stuff? ie: If the liquid primer is properly thinned and sprayed with an airbrush, do they both adhere equally and accept paint equally? The bottle says to thin with lacquer thinner if needed. Has anyone had a problem with the liquid primer? Thanks, Greg.

Thanks Robert. I will give it a try then. So far I have only one Testors can that is leaking from the bottom seam and it has only been stored upright.

Has anyone stored the little Tamiya or Testors spray cans laying on their sides? Any issues? I could store a whole lot more of them on the shelf if I laid them down. Seems I am a better paint collector than I am a painter! Thanks, Greg

Nicely done! Best looking low rider I’ve seen.

Ain't none of mine coming apart easy! At the rate I build, I likely have enough kits to last me till I can build no more...so I don't plan on rebuilding anything.

Thanks for the info Guys. I have the kits I would need to do the swap (all AMT), but I think that may be a little beyond my skills right now.

Has any company kitted a 1/25th or 1/24th scale Mustang Notchback Coupe like this one? Thanks.

There's cheap and there's inexpensive. A Paasche or a Badger are inexpensive and have a proven track record. Cheap airbrushes (off brand Chinese stuff)....who knows? Better to spend a little more once, than less more than once....or get disgusted with poor performance and give up. Air supply could be just a tank that you fill at a local gas station. Here's another recent thread on the topic. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/148366-about-to-purchase-an-airbrush-and-compressor-advice-please/?tab=comments#comment-2180775

I made another one based on Kevin's design. It works great. I also made a small parts holder out of a little box bottom filled with corrugated cardboard strips.

Looks good to me too! I have piece of Patch cable (cat5?) that has small wires inside that I use the insulation from for plug boots. One of them is orange in color which I like the look of. I use 30ga. wire wrapping wire for plug wires which is 0.020" diameter. I have also heated and stretched 1/32" shrink tube to use for plug boots.

It can then be glued to the model with your favorite glue. I used a tiny drop of Tamiya extra thin. After painting the Mustang, I scraped the paint off of the frame and interior area and added the transparent paint. On this test though, I just foiled over the whole thing and added the paint over top of the foil. Hope this helps someone!

I recently had to make some side marker lights for a mustang build. It turned out well enough that I thought I would share it here. I first made some tiny rectangles out of 24 ga. Artists wire. I soldered the butt seam together and filed it smooth. I then dragged it across a large metal file until I had a half-round profile instead of round wire.

I have not, however those are both dual action, internal mix, similar to the Iwata Eclipse or Neo. This is the model H that I have and I love it. I have no affiliation with the seller, it was the first one that popped up. One thing I like about it is the ability to use the little cup or a bottle. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Paasche-Airbrush-Single-Action-Multi-Colour/dp/B004O7HTYU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=BQ2LRFF63Y9U&keywords=paasche+airbrush&qid=1578676127&sprefix=paasche+H%2Caps%2C265&sr=8-2

Absolutely beautiful job on this wagon!

A couple posts back I showed how I made these out of 24 gauge artists wire. I formed the rectangle on the tip of my needle nose pliers and soldered the joint. I then dragged it across a metal file until the wire was half-round. I positioned it where I wanted it and touched a drop of Tamiya extra thin cement to it to melt it in place. After paint, I cleaned them off (not well enough I see) and filled the center with transparent red and amber. I think it might be better to foil the entire frame and then put the transparent paint on top of the foil? I also tried making some frames out of styrene but they didn't turn out near as good as the wire.

Another vote for a Paasche H. I first bought an Iwata Eclipse which is a beautiful dual action internal mix air brush. I found the cleaning of it to be tedious though. Since I bought the Paasche, I have not picked up the Iwata again. Nothing against the Iwata...it is just a finer tool than needed for 99% of our hobby requirements.

That was one I got from Shapeways if I recall.