NOBLNG

I picked this one up at the flea market last Sunday. After reading some opinions on here about these AMT Corvettes, I decided to build it quick and not worry about getting too precise or detailed, since there is only so much you can do with a kit like this. I think the body is not too bad, except for the headlights. The chassis and engine are pretty horrible!

Those are some nice specimens there Guys. I have gotten side-tracked onto other ones. I have about five builds going on at once. I will get back to it hopefully soon.

Just started this one. It is the Revell special edition 2'n1 kit. It will basically be a stock setup with a little detailing. I am not going for factory correct paint colors and details, I just want it to be pleasing to my eye. Comments welcome, thanks for looking.

This was sprayed with Mission Models Pearl Blue, through my Paasche H. I don't recall what pressure or tip # I used, but I thought it went on very smooth. I would use it again.

Cool. Nice job on that one! It sounds like your build went like my 1:1 build. Change one little thing and you wind up having to change 3 more things. I just bought that kit too and plan to either do the front end early style like mine or use the TJ front.

Old thread, but good info! I may have to do this for a project I am working on. So what type of glue works best with the PET (polyethylene terephthalate) plastics?

Looking good! Nice job on those headers.

Looks like a nice plan. I am working on a '70 now, so I will be watching too!

Looks like you got a pretty good start on it. What ever became of that build? I for one would love to see it completed!

Thanks for the links everyone. Keep 'em coming if you find more.

Cool! I missed it last year. Everyone should endeavor to stay indoors and work on a model today! Well, everyone that doesn't have to go to work anyway.

I was recently attempting to glue the side mirrors on my 70-1/2 Camaro. The mirrors were too tiny to hang onto and position properly. I was using CA glue also which I did not want to get on my fingers or all over the paint. The tweezers I was using had a hard time keeping a grip on the mirrors and they spit out across the desk numerous times before I finally got them in place. They were painted already, so I couldn't use pliers or squeeze them too tightly. So that I don't have to deal with that frustration again, I modified these tweezers by gluing a small chunk of old bicycle inner tube to the tips with contact cement and trimming to shape.

How do they ship to Canada? have you ever gotten stung with duty or brokerage fees?

Where's the kick stand?

Probably not, and it doesn't claim to be, unlike the DAP stuff. I just broke those two pieces of yellow sprue apart. They were stuck pretty good, but nothing like good old model cement would do. I did buy some other thick super glue at the hobby shop and it was so thick that I couldn't squeeze it out of the bottle. This LePages stuff applies beautifully, and that is what I love about it! I wish I could find the DAP stuff to try. The video says it is stronger than polyurethane (Gorilla) glue and more durable than super glue (cyanoacrylate)...but what is it? Edit: I Just looked on DAP website and they say it can be dissolved with acetone. So it is their own special formulation of cyanoacrylate (superglue).

All you Canadians...does anyone deal with a supplier up here for stuff like pre-wired distributors, photo-etched parts, wheels and tires and factory color paints? If you do, please post the name of the supplier and/or a link to their website. Thanks in advance, Greg.

I have been wondering on my latest project, how to make the wheels more sturdy. They flop around like crazy. I had considered gluing them solid, but wasn't sure if rotating wheels was considered better than not. Thanks for the answer, mine will get the glue from now on!

Terrific tip! as I was reading it, I was imagining the tape underneath the foil. I was going to question you Steven if that would also work, but I see Richard has answered that for me. Thank Guys!

This one is pretty much done. I still have to fix the door panels so the orange plastic doesn't show, re-coat the side mirrors with molotow and raise the exhaust tips some as I think they are hanging to low. I am not thrilled with how the paint came out, but good enough for this one. I will try to do better on the next one. Baby steps...

Thanks. I love the detailing on that engine. I am not going to get close to that level. My fingers are getting fatter with age!

Thanks Bill. This is for the engine, and once again I am not striving for factory correctness. I am just trying to choose the best of what I have on hand. Nice Daytona by the way! Are those exhaust manifolds painted engine color also?

Which one of these would be closest to Hemi Orange? Testors #1127 orange enamel. MM #2731 Chevrolet engine red enamel or #4629 Chevy engine red acrylic? This is going to be for a 1970 Hemi Cuda. Thanks, Greg.

I love it! Fantastic job on the details. Beautiful color. Nice stance. I love everything about it!

After all that mucking around I finally got the floor pan to meet up nicely with the firewall. Then the front sub-frame c/w engine and radiator support just slid nicely into place as if it was supposed to be installed last! Big sigh of relief!!

Thanks! I made a big mistake in assembling this particular model. I glued the front and rear lower body panels on so that I could fill the seams and do a nice paintjob. However... once that is done, it is impossible to fish the floor-pan/front sub-frame into place. I determined at this point, that the best solution would be to remove the front sub-frame from the floor-pan and install it after the floor-pan was in place. It came apart with minimal glue points. Whew! Now, I go to install the floor pan, which is no longer easy, since the rear body panel (that holds the tail lights) is in place. It was a process of: fish the floor-pan in so that the rear wheel wells are inside the body, pull it forward and stick a finger in through the side window and pry the floor pan downward so the two locating tabs would mate up while pushing the floor-pan rearward again. I thought the first attempt was a little tedious... and then the front of the floor-pan would NOT meet up with the fire wall like it was supposed to! Well to make long story short...there is a huge fitment problem between the dash/inner door panels and the grossly thick wind shield. after 20-30 repetitions of trimming and fishing the floor-pan/tub in and out, I got it to fit. Some pre-fitting would have saved me a lot of work.?