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That looks a ton better. The top really did come out nice.

Nice! What did you use for the braided rad hose?

I went looking for that stuff at Home Depot, but they didn't have it. They did have this stuff on sale though. I filed a slight flat spot on two pieces of sprue and lapped them inline for about a half inch. They are stuck together real good! I really like the applicator on this bottle too. You squeeze the blue tabs on each side to dispense the gell-like glue. It is very easy to control minute amounts coming out.

A couple more pics.

This is my Revell 1939 Chevy Street Rod. Overall a fairly nice kit. There are some fitment issues regarding the interior tub that I addressed in my build thread. Thanks for looking. Greg.

Well I am calling this one done. I have not installed the driving lights supplied for the front bumper, or the chrome grills on the lower front fenders. They are way too thick and the chrome on them is very poor. I may possibly attach the license plates yet. More pics under glass.

Very nicely done! Thumbs up!!

On this Revell '39 Chevy Street Rod, the bumper mounts have very pronounced bevel. This would make the outer ends of the bumpers tilt down drastically. The front ones I trimmed with a hobby knife to roughly perpendicular to the ground. For the rear, I came up with this idea. I mounted sandpaper to a piece of angle with double faced tape. I then just sanded the mounts until they were square to the ground by sliding the angle back and forth on the workbench. It worked like a charm

My hood wobbled on the body also, I managed to get it to sit nice. Now I notice the body wobbles when I set it down on the work table so... until I get it mounted to the chassis?

I've got two coats on this one now. I wet sanded after the first coat and this is after wet sanding the second coat with 3m Trizact 3000 grit. I get quite a bit of orange peel which I attribute to my minimal airbrush experience. I've sanded through slightly on a couple edges and probably should do another complete coat but I may just try a touch up before clear coating it. Comments welcome, thanks for lookin. Greg

Beautiful work! I too thought you nailed it with the weathered green look.

Now THAT is Beautiful!!

Wow, that is awesome looking! Your talents and patience amaze me!

That's OK. I like huge pictures! This is turning out real nice. I have a Revell 911 Cabriolet. It is not nearly as detailed as your kit is. You have inspired me to get a start on it. I have no experience with foreign cars, so I will sort of follow what you are doing. Great Job so far!

A bit of green painters tape works. You could also use a 1/8" square piece of double faced tape on the end of a chunk of sprue.

You are right Bob! I didn't check well enough obviously. There is interference where the interior meets the front angled section of the floorboards. I wound up trimming about 1/16 off the bottom of the entire interior "tub" including the rear seat. The recess inboard of the rear fenders is not deep enough for the body to sit down into properly (passengers side is worse than drivers). Edit: Another spot where there is interference is the rear jump seat. It is cast into the interior tub which has the locating tabs on it also. If the passenger front seat is glued in place on the locating ridges, the rear seat will hit the back of it! I had to move the passengers seat ahead about 1/8" to clear the rear seat.

Wow, that is nice! Love the color. I haven't decided what color to go with yet, I was thinking red or black, but my mind changes a few times daily. Thanks for the pics!

Can you copy and paste a link here?

I don't like the chrome tail lights they supplied in this kit so I fabbed some new ones from some tail light sprue.

I AM putting a 1966 engine in it from a later kit...

Thanks for the tips! I am debating which way to go. I do like the hardtop look better.

The external mix is one thing I like about the H. Cleaning it is easy, there are 3 parts that the paint can get to ( I have only used the little gravity feed cup, not the bottles yet) the cup, the needle and the nozzle. They are easily removed and separate from the AB itself. The needle seems to be far less prone to damage than the Iwata? The duel action brushes are really versatile and my Iwata Eclipse will do anything the Paasche H will and more, but right now I am enjoying the user-friendliness of the H. I have no experience with Badger. I would suggest watching some YT videos on each.

I got a start on the engine already. I can see from googling pics, that the upper rad hose connection is not correct but I think I will leave it as is. I will be wiring it though.

I'm starting on this one while things dry on my other projects. Has anyone done one of these? I searched and didn't find anything on here? It's not the greatest kit...part of the front fender wells and the frame are molded with the floor pan. The interior is a one-piece bucket with the center consol molded in place??? Oh well, I can't complain, I got it at the flea market for $2.00

The thing about an airbrush (compared to spray bombs) is that there is a lot less paint used, less overspray and fewer paint particles to get circulated around the house. That said, laquer or enamel paints will still irritate your wife. My wife is very sensitive to chemical smells also, so I do all my spraying out in the garage. She even notices the small bit of brush cleaner (mineral spirits) I use indoors. I have an Iwata Eclipse which I believe is similar to the Neo. It does a very nice job, but is a pain to clean thoroughly. FWIW, I recently bought a Paasche H and find it a lot easier to use and to clean. Good Luck!