Rich Chernosky

The painting, the detail and assembly is so precise. Thanks for the update..its inspiring. And ...oh yah...I have been in the box on mine.

Andy...I have the 1/12 Otaki kit. What do you want to know. Also have the 1/20 and a 1/24 resin. None of them built.

A definite one of a kind, very skillfully done and special attention to detail. Congrats Dave on a job well done.

Mark...you are just sailing through this one. Everything looks great so far. Almost makes me want to dig mine out.

Steve...That is a tough paint job to master but you nailed it. Great job....engine and interior are pretty cool too. And to be there and see it run...priceless.

JC....your post has prompted me to dig out my 3 Fujimi 356 kits. They are the#27 356 B/c 2000GS cpe, #28 356 B/C 2000GS roadster, and #29 356 B/C 1600GS roadster. My approach to these kits is a little different and hopefully it will add to your wonderful WIP. I will be using some of your mods as they make sense but am only going so far with these kits as I don't want to step on your post. Explanation below both pictures. This is the Porsche 356 B/C 200GS coupe. Body was painted with nail polish in 2006 then foiled and polished . I recently de-sprued all the parts and sorted them into painting bags. The identifying numbers were left on for obvious reasons but also as something to hold onto while spraying. This process does two things. It helps to aquaint me with the assembly (some sub-assembly done) and stops a lot of the delicate parts from being broken on the sprue. And they are v-e-r-y delicate. I rarely lose parts. All of the parts still have to be cleaned before painting. That is also delicate work and will have to wait until my left hand heals from a bicycle accident. This is what you are up against with this kit. This one is the #29 Porsche 356 B/C 1600GS roadster. AS yet untouched. Amazing how much room there is in the box after you de-sprue everything and sort it. A lot less intimidating. There are some subtle differences between the 2000GS and the 1600GS. Mostly in the engine and body work. Several of the sprues are the same. There are lots of extra parts to do both the B and C versions. And some extra wheels that will find their way onto my Jimmy Flintsone spyder.

Will follow this one. Just picked mine up and gave it a good grok. Really like this one even if the doors don't open. Mine will be an orangish, brown , pearlescent. Still playing with the colors.

Gary....a very nice model of an iconic race car. All the little modifications really paid off. Enjoyed the WIP too. Great job.

Dave....considering what you start with in resin and the beautiful models you turn out.....if you were to tackle an MFH kit I think you would breeze right through it.

This is truly a work of art. So much intricate work. A real marvel. Congratulations on a superb build Tomasz. Probably one of the finest and most detailed models I have ever seen.

Jason....followed your WIP.....this really turned out spectacular. Even though I am a kinda red Ferrari guy...I really like this color on this model. Great job.

Very nice Mario. Looks good in that setting . I see you conquered the red surround on the headlights. Did you use the decal or something else. That was the hardest part of the kit in my opine.

I'm with Gary, Those wire wheels.....ooohh!. Once you get all the flash off scrub as much as you can with scouring powder then prime. If you use a grinder on any parts wear a mask....the dust is a lung irritant. Epoxy and super glues are the only thing that will hold parts together. Resin works pretty easily so pinning and drilling of small parts is also recommended. FPP kits can be turned into real masterpieces. Good luck with it.

Superb build, well worth the effort. Great job Peter.

I have a couple of these kits in various forms of completion. Looking forward to seeing one of these done.

Bruce...yes I did get a kick out of this. 1/7 scale is a little unusual isn't it. Was this a kit or scratch built. This is huge. I have two 1/8 models (Pochers) and they had to have separate display case made for them.

Jeremy...there are always several solutions. If you really want a black stripe there that can easily be replicated with vinyl tape. Lay the tape on a piece of glass and cut it to size with a sharp blade and metal straight edge. It will have to be done in three pieces. Cut it as many times as needed to get it to look right. Once ( try not to stretch the tape) applied and you are satisfied give it a coat of Tamiay x-22 to hold it in place. I have done this many many times.

Jim...not sure how I missed this. Great job on this. The tire decals was a nice choice. Tamiya kits area dream to build...I agree. Yah...you should do another one. The second one always goes better than the first.

Bruce...having done both the coupe and convertible I can really appreciate the work you put into this. Luv the color..it really suits this model and the interior and engine are just as sharp. Congrats on a job well done.

Harry....the color on this is very striking and you did an awesome jb on the interior and engine. Always like your posts..you do a great job explaining and sharing your experiences. Thank you for that.

I have both versions of that kit and they are indeed the same. Chrome is a little brighter in the Revell but then its a newer casting.

That's a great little kit and you executed it flawlessly.