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Plowboy

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Everything posted by Plowboy

  1. At one time, my solution was to use Plasti Kote primer. Never had a problem with bleed through. But, now that it's no more (DO NOT buy the Plasti Kote by Valspar! It's not the same and is a waste of money!), I don't have a tried and true method. I recently had a bleed through issue which was my first and it was over Lindberg's yellow plastic. I think it had some kind of clear on it as it was really shiney. Anyway. I primed with Tamiya gray. Painted with Tamiya Blue. Shot a coat of clear and everything was fine. I allowed it to dry for a day. When I shot the second coat of clear on the bed and grille, bleed through! So, I allowed that to dry, shot one coat of paint, one coat of clear and had no bleed through. All I could do with it from that point was lightly polish it. I think you would be OK with the Tamiya Silver paint as long as you keep it to a bare minimum. I don't see a need for the white primer. Tamiya white primer barely will cover white styrene. Since you're painting it silver, I would go with the straight gray primer. I would definitely do a test on a piece you aren't using or a small piece before committing to the body.
  2. Plowboy

    2019 Builds

    Thanx to everyone for all of the great comments! I appreciate it!
  3. Thanx to everyone! I appreciate the comments!
  4. Plowboy

    2019 builds.

    Nice work on all of them! The Super Bee is really nice! The effort you put into it really shows in the final result!
  5. Nice builds Oliver! That Caddy is especially nice!
  6. Nice work on all of them! I really like the '62 Galaxie! Makes me want to build my hardtop.
  7. Thanx! I basically just set the hood on top of the breathers, guessed where they were underneath, marked it, cut two slots with a dremel and router bit, trimmed and filed until it fit. I actually did the hood after it was finished. It's one of my favorite features on this build.
  8. Plowboy

    2019 Builds

    2019 didn't go quite the way I planned. The plan was to only work on older projects and finish them. I only finished two. One was an on again off again stretched out over four or five years. The other one was started fifteen years ago! But, I did finish the projects I started. So, that's some improvement. Maybe 2020 will be the year I knock the project pile down some. We'll see.
  9. All I used is rattle cans and IMO, you can't beat Tamiya sprays. I've tried others like Dupli Color, Krylon etc. and they just don't compare. I still use the other brands occasionally. But, when I want great results, I use Tamiya. For clear, I use their TS-13. Usually three coats over paint. I only use it on bodies. For a dull finish, I use Testors Dull Cote. It is best to do mist coats. You don't necessarily have to sand between coats. I usually spray a coat, wait ten minutes, spray another, wait ten more and spray a good wet (heavier) coat. Allow it to dry a day, lightly sand with 1000 grit and spray three coats of clear in the same method. I will sometimes sand between the second and third coat if I have a lot of orange peel. But, I rarely have to do that. Also, primer is a must! Use a good primer on the body like Tamiya or Dupli Color. The cheap stuff on everything else.
  10. Thanx again to everyone for all of the great comments! I appreciate it! I did a few more little things to it after I photographed it. Just some paint details I had missed and added license plates to it. Now, it's truly done.
  11. Plowboy

    Hakosuka

    Very cool little Nissan! I've looked at this kit many times. But, never have pulled the trigger. Can the headlights be mounted straight instead of angled?
  12. Really nice looking R/T! The color really suits it well! Nice work!
  13. Plowboy

    69 Camaro

    Sharp as a tack!! The Tamiya Maroon is one of my favorite colors! Nice work!
  14. The Mustang is now resting on it's own suspension! It sets a little higher than I really wanted. But, it's acceptable. It is a street car. So, some concessions have to be made. I went with struts up front which required some reworking of the kit setup. Mostly moving the strut towers out and raising the kit suspension to meet the struts. I'll probably use a rack and pinion for steering instead of the stock piece. The rearend and four links are from an Olds Pro Stock. I gotta get an engine picked out soon or I'm going to be at a standstill. Next will be getting the roll cage made. I'm going to go with a fairly simple setup.
  15. Thanx guys! With the new plan, I'll won't be able to use a stock hood. I'll just modify the one I have. I almost have the suspension worked out. Just a few more tweaks and I should be able to stick it together. I need to figure out what engine I'm going to use. I'm thinking maybe a Boss 429 or a 460. Kinda thinking about using a modern engine also.
  16. They're both nice! But, I REALLY like the Gran Prix!
  17. Could the '67 GTX be converted into a '66 Satellite? Or are there too many differences?
  18. Thanx to everyone for all of the great comments! I appreciate it!
  19. Thanx Dave! You wouldn't happen to remember the name of that color would you? My brother's '63 Fairlane was a similar color. It looked brown as I remember. But, it was faded and dull. I couldn't find the color in the codes I looked at. But, I was maybe looking for the wrong color.
  20. Plowboy

    1971 GTX

    It's the '70s all over again! You definitely got look down pat! Just needs some Hi Jacker decals in the quarter windows.
  21. Yeah, I saw his project. He and I are going in two different directions though. As I was looking this project over, I saw I was doing the same old thing as I've done with other street type builds. Plus, I wasn't looking forward to all the work ahead of me with the rear seat and interior quarters. Time for something different! I'm going to do this one as a serious, barely street legal car. I've never done one in this particular style. So, it'll be something kinda new to me. With the interior a non issue, I could now do whatever I wanted. It'll now get a race seat, roll cage and custom dash. I started with modifying the chassis. All that's left of the rear section of the original frame are the frame rails and a cross member. I moved the frame rails inboard to make room for the wider rear slicks from a Revell Willys. Then, I made new tubs, trunk pan and a raised center section with .020 styrene. Up front, I cut away everything but the spring/shock towers. I'll make bars from .080 rod and tie the front frame rails to the towers and firewall. Don't know if I'll use the kit suspension or switch to struts. I'll now have all the room I need for the engine and headers. Or at least I think I will. New mockup! It won't be quite this low. But, I don't want it to be much higher. Next task is to get the suspension worked out so I know exactly where it'll be.
  22. Thanx Bob! If I had it to do over, I would have sectioned a couple or three mms out of the headers to bring them up level with the oil pan. There's plenty of room to do it. They actually hang down too far IMO.
  23. They're Detail Master detail wire. You get several colors. I've used on the same package for years.
  24. Thanx! My older brother had one that had a 351C stuffed in it. I got some scary rides in that car! Someday, I'd like to build one like his. I was going to do it with this one. But, didn’t really want to hack it up like I would have needed to.
  25. Thanx! I mulled over whether to keep the emblems or not for a while. I was thinking about using the 427 emblem decals from the T-Bolt. But, decided against them. Now that it's done, I'm glad I kept them also.
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