TransAmMike

I see the different labels, also note that the factory filter says "replace w/ PF 64", replacement shows it is a PF64, ahhh the subtleties.

And when all else fails (I tried all the suggestions) this is how you do it. Quite a lot hours of prep, paint, foiling, installing windows over several days shot to hell. Oh well.

Thanks Tom, but not the case here, just didn't realize they were off enough to be noticable. Will definately measure and mark with tape next time. Anyway, it's the gold GT350H stripes.

Put some ripple wall slicks on it and it'll look like thats what it's doing, but of course will need a driver. ??

A lot of good info Casey, will give some of those responses a try. Thanks And Pete, I tried the Micro Set to no avail.

What really sucks is all the trim foiling is done as well as all the windows are in. Grrrrrrr!!!

Just tried that David, nope!!!! Those suckers are on there like they've been painted on.

Hi Dave (my go too advisor)! Chaz, I also use the Testors Dave mentions. In fact as you know I'm working on that same model. Those side windows were a real pain for me, but taping them in helped a lot.

Nailed it Phillp!!?

But now it's JUST a Torino. Just messin with ya David, looks fine without the stripes.??

I have that '57 Flip nose but just keep bypassing it, and I'm a huge '57 Chevy fan.

I'm glad you're back on this cool project Dan. Yeah, I had my decalling issue yesterday on my current WIP, bummer!!

I have never built a kit larger than 1/24, but IMO, unless you just want to build a flip front drag car, I'd go with the Convertable. Just my 2-cents??

Personally, I think the gold decals would look good on the blue. Some Mustang GT350H's were actually painted blue, tho not as dark as yours.

Just my luck, or lack of good judgement, applied decal stripes on model and they are crooked. Tried to remove with Micro Sol and they might as well be painted on. Anyone have a magic solution (litterally LOL) to get these off. They are over acrylic laquer clear.

Thanks, got a bit of a hiccup now with it. Decalling issues?

Appreciate the compliment Craig but I still have a long way to go with the painting process. I've gotten on this kick of being determined to get great results using craft paint. I just like the less messy easy cleanup with it.

No problem Chaz. Interesting that no primer. One thing for sure, it eliminates any flaws in the primer showing in the color coat. Looks like the rest of the model is coming along nicely. Don't know if you saw my WIP post for the GT350H i'm finishing up.

That looks good Chaz. May I ask, what primer and which craft paint did you use?? Also, how long after sprayng the craft paint did you use the Future?

They look good Craig, I'm thinking you are better off with the WS fluid. I don't know how long you're waiting to clear but I had an experience with The 66 GT350 MUstang I'm finishing up. I got impatient and cleared it with the Rusto Acrylic Lacquer about 4 hours after spraying the craft paint. I used the hair dryer several times duing the wait then went ahead and sprayed it. I felt like it was my best paint job yet, just minute orange peel, looked great. Well, after a couple of days with the clear on it I can now see a few minor scratches from the light sanding then steel wooling prior to applying the paint and ghosting of the emblems I had to remove that weren't visable after priming and painting. I guess the paint shrunk. Anyway, take it for what it's worth. I guess my impatience bit me in the azz. I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever get this body painting process down.

Get this, HL has them. Works great.

Great job Dan, those '63's were huge cars for Drag Racing.

Very cool Aymer, looks ready to smoke those huge slicks!!?

Beautiful job Rick, white isn't high on my list of car colors, but it sure works on this one?

Looks great, very nice "stock" build. Can't go wrong with red and black either.