Andrew McD

Thanks Jeff, not familiar with that shop but I'll have a look at them.

I followed your lead and ordered a 400mL bottle of MLT from BJ Hobby today. They accepted the order and my payment through PayPal. We'll see what happens. Thanks for your comments and info. When I first started using the airbrush I made an effort to use Createx products but had so many problems with tip dry, orange peel and all the other painting issues that a neophyte to the process experiences. I may revisit Createx as I have gone from being a disaster with the airbrush and rattle cans to being almost competent. The few models that I painted successfully with Createx came out looking pretty good though it was usually a matter of luck rather than skill resulting in a lack of repeatability.

I have been trying to replenish my stock of MR.COLOR LEVELING THINNER and it seems to currently be not available in the USA. There are numerous eBay offers of the product but they are all overseas with shipping costs that double the cost of the product. Does anybody have any insight as to why the product is currently unavailable in the USA?

Only just ran across this thread today. Very cool and imaginative build. Love reading all the details on how you accomplished much of what you've done; very useful stuff. The bit of street for a base is excellent!

Another excellent tip/tutorial Greg. Thank you for you many contributions!

Looks great. Love the paint!

Hot Rod! Enough said on my part, you said it all with this build. Very cool!

Fun and well done. One cool hot rod!

This one really looks the part! Very nicely done and I also think the snow pics really show the car at its best. Well done!

This will be a fun one to follow. I have a similar build approach in mind as there are lots of parts in the junkyard just gathering rust.

Very nice looking hot rod, super clean build!

Got to love such a well built Coba! You're a proper snake charmer.

Very nice build! I have this one and ran into problems with the exhaust pipes, there was absolutely no way I could get them to route out from under the hood and down through the fender......just wouldn't fit no matter what I tried. You've made it work so obviously I just completely missed something about how they fit in place. My kit was also missing the windshield and windshield frame which surprised me as it was a sealed box.

Thanks Greg! I do enjoy reading and employing the many tips and techniques you post.

Sometimes when using rattle cans I will be too close to what I'm painting and end up with a thick wet coat that has areas of bubbling. I've had this occur with both Tamiya and Testors rattle cans. I believe the bubbling is propellant still dissolved in the paint that is rapidly evaporating (gassing off) and forms bubbles and pits in the paint. I now decant my rattle can paint, let it gas off, and then apply it with the airbrush. I haven't experienced the bubbling when the paint is applied with the airbrush even when I put it on too wet; then it just runs but that's another issue!

What is your technique for bending the round stock? Do you heat the plastic somehow to persuade it to keep the bend or does it simply keep the shape after being formed?

Very nice! The color really suits this car.

Cool idea! Thanks:

As so many have already noted this is one beautifully detailed model. Well done! What did you use for what appears to be the parking brake cable and cable housing?

I have a couple of Revell '32 Ford roadsters as well as the Revell '32 Ford Tudor in the stash. Iceman collections advertises "I-Beam Drop Axle for 1932 Ford Revell Kits 1/25" in a "mild" and "wild" version. I purchased one of each. To my surprise the Iceman axles have a significantly wider track width as measured between kingpin centers. The Revell front axle for the roadster and the Tudor are identical with a scale 46" width. The Iceman axles come in at a scale width of 52.5". An increase in track width of 6.5" surprised me . The track width of the Revell roadster and Tudor is very similar front to back as can be seen in the photo that includes the rear axle from the '32 Ford roadster. In doing some brief research online I found that SoCal Speed Shop offers dropped beam axles in 47" and 48" widths. Roadster Supply Company offers them in 46", 47", and 48" widths. The Iceman axles seem to have an unusually wide track width compared to the Revell models as well as offerings in the 1:1 world. Is it common practice in the 1:1 world of street rods to have a wider track width in the front than the rear? Obviously I've never built a real street rod but I don't recall seeing cars with the front end wider than the rear. I can only imagine that the handling would be a bit odd. Has anybody used the Iceman dropped front axles on either the Revell '32 Ford roadster or the '32 Ford Tudor? Any insight and/or advice is appreciated. Thanks, Andrew

Man I hear ya' on the frustration when things don't go as planned! Some builds fight me at every move. Actually it seems that most of them do that! It is particularly frustrating when tools or materials (such as the BMF) don't work as advertised. I suppose if it were easy everybody would be building show stoppers. Having followed a few of your builds I don't doubt you'll resolve the issues and get through this one too. Despite the frustration your BMF work looks great in the photos.

I assume you have checked out this site? mikesullivanracing.com

What was your approach to painting the headliner? Did you mask everything off and spray or brush it on? It's an area I've been slack in and wondering about different approaches other than simply leaving it body color.

I'm impressed with how even the paint looks. I once tried the clear blue over a silver base and it was so uneven I had to strip it and paint it red. *L* Your hot rod is looking good!

Those wheels work better than I might have imagined. I'll bet the metallic black would look good.