Andrew McD

I totally understand that BMF "fear barrier" and yours has turned out to look quite nice. Got to say I quite like the paint color. I built this kit awhile back and never could quite sort out the front and rear splash pans to my satisfaction and the front fender wells on mine were a catastrophe!

Very nice street rod with details that make it unique.

Looks really great in white! Nice clean build.

Very nice build of what I agree is a very well done kit.

Beautifully detailed and great color!

A helluva' hot rod!

I am currently working on the same kit though my progress is very slow. I'll be watching this one.

This is too cool! I'll be watching.

Very interesting! I've not tried mixing them. Your result would suggest they are different products. Thanks for your input.

What did you use for the body filler?

The discussion referenced in Pete75's response is worth reading.

I too noticed that the little bottle was only about half full when I opened it. It is disturbing, and probably a violation of law, that the contents of the bottles would be 20% below the advertised volume!

Thanks Pete. One post in that discussion reported that Tamiya says they are the same product. I think I'll decant some TS this afternoon and run the experiment to see how it compares to the LP.

I'm beginning to think you're the Ian Roussel of model car building! Another wild project, I'll be following.

Ohhhhh, that looks like a wild machine in the making. Will you be doing a WIP?

I sprayed some Tamiya LP-1 Black lacquer this afternoon through the airbrush and was impressed with the results. In the past I've found it difficult to get a nice result with gloss black paint but the Tamiya (thinned 1:1 with MrColor Leveling Thinner) sprayed nicely and produced a nice even glossy black. So my point is I am impressed with the Tamiya LP paint's performance but I'm not impressed with the cost of buying mini 10ml jars. Tamiya spray cans, the TS paint line, by my understanding are lacquer and I'm wondering if there's any fundamental difference between the LP lacquer sold in tiny jars and the TS spray paints. I have a number of cans of the Tamiya TS spray cans but haven't decanted any with the exception of their light grey primer. The light grey primer goes on nicely through the airbrush and I find it much more economical than spraying a fog of paint from a rattle can. I do thin the decanted paint for use with the airbrush and typically use MrColor Leveling Thinner. Of course I can run the experiment and decant some of the Tamiya TS spray paint and see if I'm as pleased with the result as I am with the Tamiya LP paint. But, if anybody can confirm or deny that the LP paint and TS paint are the same products just packaged differently I would be interested to hear from you.

From the photographs it appears the 3D print quality is impressive. I'm looking forward to seeing the end product and what color scheme you go with. I think with such an iconic show car I would be inclined to go with the original color. 3D printing is becoming intriguing to me, particularly the ability to produce models not available on the market, but I already have so many models in the stash and I'm kind of a slow builder...........hmmmm, but still mighty tempting to have a go at it.

What a wild ride. Dude, I love your creativity. I recently completed the same kit but in a much closer to box stock form!

Echoing what others have already said; excellent color combination with the seat decals and the body paint. I have this one in the queue and hope I can do it justice as you have done.

Love the way the wheels are tucked up under the fenders. Excellent stance! Ah yes, you print it out yourself and there's no instructions for the sequence of assembly which makes me even more appreciative of the skill it takes to build one this way. Nice work!

I believe the Createx website specifically states that one should not wet sand their paints. Early on when first attempting to use an airbrush I experimented with Createx with very mixed results. Tip dry problems and paint spattering issues were a constant headache. Keep in mind that I was new at airbrushing, a skill I still have not mastered, but I did manage to paint a couple of models with their pearl colors and was very pleased with the results. I understand that their new 4021 reducer (reducer is their word for thinner) has been formulated to reduce tip dry problems. I don't know what the experience of others may be but I found thinning to the suggested ratios on their website resulted in paint that was much too thick to spray effectively in the 15 to 30 psi range that is typical for model airbrushing. As with all hobby airbrushing it seems Createx paints have a learning curve, one that I found to be frustratingly steep. Having said that I am considering having another go with Createx as I especially like their pearls. Hopefully the 4021 reducer and a bit more experience with the airbrush will produce more consistent results.

I meant no criticism of your work. I am trying to develop an approach to figuring out dimensions for a drawing that would provide a starting point for machining parts. I appreciate your response . I kind of figured as a first approach to machining parts for a model I would start by basing it on existing plastic parts. Thank you for confirming that such an approach is a reasonable way to go.

The metal work is impressive. I am curious what you used as a reference for the dimensions. Did you take measurements off a kit engine, research actual engine dimensions, or some other approach? One of my long term modeling goals is to develop some lathe/mill skills to produce parts for my models. Fascinating work you're doing, I'll be following this!

Very nicely done! I have this one waiting in the stash but haven’t yet decided if I’ll build it as a show or go themed car. Glad to hear that there are no big issues with the kit.

Great looking pro-mod. Impressive scratch built chassis. What did you base the chassis design on? Was it your own design or based on an existing car?