Pierre Rivard

Merci Francis. This one was built very fast. I did in 3 weeks what I usually do in 8. I just wanted it finished to clean up the bench for a self imposed 5 month break (travel and golf on the menu). I'm happy you like the result, one of these rare builds where everything falls in place. Even the weathered painting process, something I had not even tested came out good. Next project (fall) will not be so easy, a Fernando Pinto resin kit.

Thanks Rich. I usually try to replicate a real race car at a specific race venue, which requires research of facts and replicating it as best we can. In this case I did research salt racing but the car is is pure imagination. Refreshing change. Thanks Kyle. A strange combination but researching LSR at Bonneville indicated there are many many strange combinations out there. So why not? I have about 700 hp, was geared for 200 (foolish me) but inexperience, aero of a brick (well... it IS a brick), stability issues, not enough ballast... So we went 170 on the first run, spun on the return run. We'll be back next year... salt fever!

Proof that simple vintage kits can be shaped into wonderful replicas when creativity, skills and resolve are fully leveraged. Fabulous effort!

Thanks Ken. I built this thing too fast to fully enjoy it. I need that vacation! Thanks Chuck. Making our builds look like real cars is what we always try to do but only occasionally achieve. Thank you sir. I just painted a 12x12 board to match the salt and use my laptop screen as a background. Works surprisingly well. This new technique for creating this paint effect has produced surprisingly good results. Actually easier than trying for the perfect paint job. I like the look and will definitely repeat the experience. Thanks Larry, much appreciated. Like I said, I just found neat pictures and used my laptop screen as the background. Quick and easy but it does look pretty cool! You are so right Bill. Your words perfectly describe what this build is about. Thanks! Thank you sir, it is actually my first LSR build but I am fascinated with these so these is definitely more of them in my future Thank you Andrew. I ended up adding more details to this build than I initially planned but it has come together quite nicely. It helps when we start with a good quality kit such as this Revell Nova is.

Lovely kit isn't it? Hang in there man!

Thanks Carl, much appreciated Thanks Charlie, actually much quicker than my usual pace due to a deadline to "close the shop" for travel. Well you are here now and that means a lot. Thanks for the constant support. Thanks a lot Chris. Mad a few mistakes with regulations but we showed up. Let's try to pass inspection! Thanks Mark. The weathering piece was tons of fun. Not bad for a first try. Likewise Claude, an immense pleasure to meet yesterday. Your job is to bug me until I cave in and participate in November. I think I could be convinced... Thanks Ken. Just posted under glass

A bit off the wall. Imagine a low budget effort run at Bonneville. It starts with a barn find 72 Nova. The sun burnt paint with plenty of surface rust makes it look ratty but the structure is sound. Fix up the chassis, build a nice 427 with a 6-71 blower and Hilborn injection, add the mandatory roll cage and lets go racing! So it is an improbable, unrealistic endeavor but it adds up to a fun scale model build. I started with a Revell Yenko Nova kit and mashed in parts from the spares and some home made aero elements. Paints are all Vallejo acrylics either brush or sponge applied. The car was designed to run in the B engine size Classic Blown Gas Altered class. It looks like a rat but is meant to be a salt racer, so a SALT RAT it is.

Made a parachute Re-did the rear wing which was too big. Brush painted aluminium and sponge finished with a slightly lighter shade to give it an unpainted aluminium look Engine installed and chassis installed to body, which allowed the final engine component sets to be integrated: ignition coil to firewall and inline fuel pump to right inner fender. I decided to leave the bumpers rusted, and fabricated sheet metal inserts to block off lamps and grille inlets Last item on the check list: exhaust dumps, made from 4mm Evergreen tubes with ends hollowed out. This one is done. I'll try to post photos underclass tomorrow.

Last set of updates for this build I had to rush to finish. I wanted it done before final preparations for an extended vacation. Aero hubcaps are from Parts by Parks. Original finish on first photo. I flat cleared them and added graphite dry pigments (photo 2)

I have a question? I finished the bumpers with rust effects. I'm not sure it is good enough, and perhaps too much of the rust theme here. I'm considering stripping them and going for a black finish. Might make the car look a bit more sinister. So what do you guys think, keep the rusty chrome or go with a black finish?

I fixed my big boo boo with the roll cage and dash fighting for space. Interior may not pass inspection but it is finished.

Thanks for providing valuable insight Chris. I have extremely limited knowledge and obviously making mistakes here. I'm dating this build to a 1995-2000 run and (wrongly) assumed rules were not as strict then. If you are shooting for 250, does that mean you already have your red hat?

Brown or unpainted fiberglass inside, black padding for the driver seat, brown/bare fiberglass for the passenger "seat"

I started with Gofer lever type belts but ended up using only the 4 elements latching together (end of each strap). The shoulder adjusters were excessively fragile so I went to spares for these. The Gofer straps are also too wide for my taste (about 3mm) so I went with narrower straps from the spares.

And not so great stuff that needs serious fixing. After I mocked up everything I decided to make a change the front cage post... and forgot to check again. Dash panel butchery in process...

Thanks Niko, the interior does not look inviting but it was on purpose for this build. Funny.... I thought I had stolen this from you? The shifter is just a pin from the jewelry section at Michael's, the booth is inspired by MarkJ's method. Steal is such an ugly word... Good tip Noel. I need to try that. The braid belts don't look too convincing. Thank Mark for that. Pretty easy and effective. Thanks Phil. I like to try new ideas. Might even do a Deuce! 😄

The fuel tank does have a nice metal motif. Your efforts to color/texture variations really works here. Double bonus points for doing that on a part that will be covered by the body.

Thanks Jim. Same here, such a beautiful race car Got mine on E-bay, waiting patiently for a reasonably priced sealed box. Bonus picture, with the big dog of 1966. Luke or Dark Vader?

The chassis set up looks very promising. The rear axle & spring arrangement looks exactly like the one on the early 50's Goldenrod. Are you setting this build with removable panels (or complete body) to allow a good view of the chassis/drivetrain/cockpit? Cool project!

Adding insulated mats. Made a paper pattern and replicated on medical fabric tape. Tape was painted gray, then dry brushed aluminium, then added PE fasteners.

Making a few additional dials for this beauty. Integration of components has a nice... home made feel?

PE buckles are fighting me again. I wish I could find a brand where all the parts work. Anyhow... we have seatbelts on our ratty seat.

Sure is. This stock body C3 last ran in 2000 with a 303 cid twin turbo, perhaps with a bit of nitro and ached a 2 way average of 270mph. Who has time to look at all these gauges... Thanks friend. Mine will have a few adds but pretty spartan in comparison. Definitely off the beaten path Ken. I did add some weathering to the interior trim btw.

It is a nice chassis, and with working steering. Impressive vintage kit for sure.