Pierre Rivard

Hi Tom, I use a 1/2 inch flat brush made by Privateer Press model 93090 for all large surfaces like body, glass etc.

Don't know, could be either way and why is a mystery. I don't know how often tires lasted but it's quite possible they got changed before the car DNF'd. I just can't bring myself to do silver fronts and red rears...

For sure not, the car broke down after 4 hours... ?

Come on Bruce! You gotta do it! It would make Canada proud! ?

Thanks Gary, some helpful ref pics I had not seen before. Interesting to see the production fuel filler door was left untouched...after I spent all that time filling the one on my model... Evidence or the rear red wheels on every pic (darker on b&w shots). Should I go back and paint my rears ???... the accuracy vs elegance dilemma.

70's F1 cars are wonderful, each one different from the others. What scale is it and what donor kit are you using? Thanks for sharing, it will be fun to watch.

Looking really good. A lot of reworks but you have nailed the stance. Bravo!

You're right Andy, the A arms on this kit are rather simplistic, surprising considering this is a newly tooled kit. Thinking if I should do something about it. Still need to do a battery tray and have yet to figure out the oil filter arrangement on the dry sump setup. On wet sump engines it runs horizontal on the right side.

Scratch built collector reservoir and dry sump reserve tank. Now I need to paint and assemble all that stuff.

Found this hollow wrapped wire lace at the jewelry department at Michaels. It is 0.75 mm diameter and matches well to a scale 3/4 inch reinforced hose. I'll be using it for the oil breather hoses. Using cheap 0.6 mm wire for the leads at both end or the runs. The wrapped wire slips right on Stop me if this is to much details...

Distributor and feeding wires to the plugs is a tight fit with the distributor sitting at an angle at the front end and somewhat under the first Weber carb, then wires feed between the coolant run and the head, wrapping over the cover held by a bracket. Location of the bracket is critical to clear the hood. It's tight but doable. Connkur distributor (the best), the rest scratch built.

Yup, same thing happened to me when I put a lot of effort on fixing apparent joints around turbos & ducts only to find out they're not visible in the end. Generally I like race cars from the 60's or earlier in part because the mechanical bits are less "wrapped" by body work

Arnoux - Villeneuve... that was epic!

A beauty Bruce. For sure it will be #12 right? I was at the Canadian GP the previous year when Gilles took his first win.

OK Paul, get busy, there's a race going on and we don't want you to get lapped! ?

So the making of a masterpiece resumes!

Super nice Thomas. All your builds are exceptional. Must have been quite the challenge masking and painting stripes on the louvered bonnet!

Fuel delivery to Webers. This is where RB Motion stuff would help but since my last purchase still needs time to get here I will try to scratch build it using styrene 0.5 and 1,2 mm rod and some ignition wires...

Starting with Weber carbs with Shapeways surplus from the spares

Starting work on the engine. First pic is mock up of kit parts to see how everything generally fits and experiment with assembly sequences. The Revell sequence sometimes contradicts with what I'd prefer to do for assembly and painting steps. Second picture is one of the many ref pics I will go by. This one is a continuation lightweight. Again I have questions about how my race car was restored as it does have Weber carbs nut a wet sump oiling system. The Cuningham car has a dry sump, The D types before did and the Lightweight did. So that' s it, I will try to scratch build some of the visible componentry as well as Weber carbs, fuel delivery and a few other details to get the look that I want.

Good start sir! A complex but beautiful shape. Lots go work (and fun) with all the changes you are planning

I don't know if your red will pop more but anything to see that pink disappear...?

Nice!

Not sure yet when I will paint the body but I felt like playing with color formulations this morning. Pic 1 is the actual race car in the pits in 62, thanks to Gramps for providing this rare period color pic of this race car. Pic 2 is the restored car at Goodwood in 2018, not sure about that color. Pic 3 is a production car painted dark opalescent blue.

This is mind boggling, surreal, unbelievable stuff mr. Jones! Thank you for sharing. OK, gotta go back to my little styrene & putty project...