STU111

That is a super smooth 32. Nice, very nice.??

Really nice work on what is my favourite Corvette shape. ??

Nice job, good friend of mine has a 1/1 this colour. I’ve got this kit but haven’t built it yet, looking at yours, it builds up very nicely. ?? Top stuff.

If my memory serves me correctly, the Holden colour charts call it Sebring Orange, yours is pretty spot on. ??

Nice job on that Torana. Good colour choice, l remember seeing a few getting around in that shade back in the day. I’ve got a couple of these DDA kits and they are a little basic but they can be made to look pretty good when built. The Torana is probably the most accurate in shape and size. Thanks for posting it, I haven’t started mine and its good to see a few built up.??

That is one neat looking 40 Ford. Beautiful colour. ??

Nice Val there Michelle. The late 60’s to 1970 Valiants are my favourite. ??

You had me at “Dodge Dart” ! Although you built it some years ago, it still looks fresh. ?? Nice work.

G’day David. I was wondering what you’d been working on. That looks excellent, sitting nice ‘n low with the Cragars. Top job on the chrome pen, very neatly rendered. ??

Awesome. Looks like 1/1. Top notch. ??

Great looking Barracuda, very neatly done. I love the driver figure you’ve added. It’s a nice touch. When l built military aircraft I always painted the pilot figures and put them in. ??

Cleanly built, and with the standard hub caps, gives it a no nonsense performance first feel. Top stuff. ??

That is one smooth custom. ??

A beautiful 32. Colour combo is excellent and they do look great with the Duvall windshield. Top stuff. ??

G’day everyone. Thanks for the comments on the Chev pickup, I appreciate it. ?? The next pickup l do is going to be an old beater, I feel like experimenting with a few rust techniques. Cheers, Stuart.

G’day Steve. I usually pop the can of TS-13 in some warm water for a few minutes and spray a light coat, wait around 20-30 minutes before applying another light coat, another 20 minutes and then apply a wetter final coat then l usually leave the body for around 2-4 weeks before polishing out with various grades of micro mesh cloth. Solid colours won’t really need TS-13, but metallics will benefit from it. If I’m using it over decals then I apply a slight ghost of a coat wait 2-3 weeks before applying another light mist coat wait 2-3 weeks then another slightly heavier coat building up to a final wet coat.The stripes on my 71 Duster were cleared with TS-13 using this method. It takes a lot of waiting between coats, but it will eat decals if applied too much and too soon, so being extra cautious is the key. I’m pretty comfortable using TS-13 now. Hope this helps you.??

The Olds came out of it okay. It’ll go on the back burner, I’ll clean up the body and get it ready to paint again during the next winter. In the meantime , I’ll check online and see what colours the 71 442 came in. I think I’ll give red a miss. ?

I use Tamiya almost exclusively as it’s the main brand here in Australia. I’m quite comfortable using their sprays. TS-13 needs to be used in light coats then build up to a wetter coat. This cautious approach usually brings good results for me. The problem with my Olds was my own stupidity. The TS-8 red has a level of translucency that I wasn’t aware of until I tried to cover some black Overspray on the side of the body. On most other colours this wouldn’t be a problem, but with red, big mistake, because it was a beautiful day for painting, l kept piling on the coats hoping it would cover the black and all l succeeded in doing was creating a goopy mess. Checked the Olds body this morning and I’m confident that I can save it. Thanks everyone for weighing in with advice, I appreciate it. ??

Thanks Mark. I’ll let it swim in the isopropyl alcohol bath for a few days and see how it goes. I just got a bit cocky as the last few builds I’d turned out some pretty good paint jobs. Nothing like a little bit of a fail to bring you back to earth.??

Regarding the inside of the headlight lenses Kevin, they are salvageable. In my military model building days l got excess glue on the canopy of a WW2 fighter plane, the rest of the build was my best work thus far, so l restored it rubbing gently using toothpaste, then moved on to the Tamiya fine compound. It wasn’t perfect when finished but it was certainly not noticeable unless you’re looking for it. Good luck with the rest of the build. ??

A high rider! There’s the plot twist in the story. Ya got me! I was thinking low ground hugging muscle.??

Flushed with the success of my latest finished build, l started on my 71 442. Oh dear. I sprayed it Tamiya Italian red over Tamiya pink primer. Unfortunately there was some black overspray from my painting the interior roof lining on the outside, it showed through. I should have known better but I kept spraying hoping it would cover and this is the result.Hopefully I can save it, but I’ve found out the hard way that red isn’t really very nice to spray.

That looks awesome. That candy green really suits. It’s convinced me to build my Foose F truck in a different colour scheme than the kit instructions.??

G’day John, very nice Olds you have there. Black and red go so nicely together. Nice detail on the wheels too, I’m building the Revell 71 442 at the moment and I’m not looking forward to detail painting the wheels on it. Hope my 71 turns out as nice as your 69. ??

G’day Craig. Yep, that looks sweet as. The flame job is beautifully executed, subtle, as ghost flames should be. All round, a top looking Chevelle. ??