STU111

What a cool little Mini! Lots of excellent detail work in that interior. Top stuff. 👍🏻

Smoooth! The rear pan and tail light mods suit the Impala perfectly.

Beautifully built and a little different as I’m used to seeing the 442. A standard Cutlass is a nice change . Top notch. 👍🏻

I have a love hate relationship with BMF, I love the look of it, but it hates me when l use it!😂 Seriously though, that is a really nice looking 57, love the stance and the wheels. 👍🏻

This looks awesome. The Cragars and black paint are spot on. Kinda wish I’d built my 57 150 in a similar way. Top stuff. 👍🏻

Mate, you nailed it! I love the concept of what you’ve done. Painting the stripes to match the HW car would have been difficult, but it looks great. Top stuff. 👍🏻

Love this era of the Impala, this looks awesome, low, tough wheels. Top stuff. 👍🏻

G’day Luke, love the patina. Looks like someone found a Plymouth Roadrunner in a barn and did everything you would do to build a tough street car but left the outside of the body as is. Top notch. 👍🏻

G’day all, body is pretty much done, cleared and polished. I didn’t polish out too hard as the original car just had good factory paint as opposed to a show car shine. Also, a big thank you to forum member Steve, ( Can-Con ) for his suggestion of using chart pack tape to replicate the body bump strip on the side, works a treat! Shouldn’t be too far off from finishing this one up.Thanks for looking in. 👍🏻

Lucky man, my Rugrats are fully grown adults that still live at home. With the cost of rent the way it is, I don’t blame them, but yeah, when they do grace me with their presence at the dinner table, the debate about current affairs and world events is pretty robust! I do enjoy it though.

G’day Don. Here is the primer l use. Great stuff. I prime everything right down to the smallest part. It’s lacquer based, so acrylic, enamel and other lacquers can be used as a top coat. It comes in white and pink as well, but l mainly use the gray.This is my favourite panel wash. Mainly use it for door and boot ( trunk ) lid gaps on car bodies. Very thin, runs along the panel lines nicely and any excess cleans off with a damp cloth.Used it on the door gaps on my Mustang.

Hi Don, is the plastic black? If so, yes l would use a light coloured primer, Tamiya light gray fine surfacing primer is what I use ( in the spray can ). I’ll post some pictures of the primer and the panel wash l use later tonight after the madness that is dinner time at my house has subsided. 😂

G’day Don, yes mate, can’t go wrong if you use the same brand paint and thinners. Panel lines? For that l use panel wash which is essentially just really thinned out paint. I use an acrylic one, with a tiny brush l drop some into the panel line and it usually flows along the line. Any excess can be removed with a damp cloth.

G’day Don. Good quality brush to start with and thin your paint ever so slightly with a compatible type of thinners usually works for me. 👍🏻

G’day again Don, before you do anything with the kit, check images of the actual car as the wavy roof may be supposed to be there. Got this image online of an RX-7 roof, looks like it has the wave in it.Perhaps forum members more familiar with the RX-7 could weigh in.

G’day Don. For starters, yes, that’s very unusual for a Tamiya kit. Depending on how you acquired the kit, a replacement body from Tamiya or the distributor may be an option. Failing that, you could fill the dips in the roof with Tamiya putty, l recently had to do this with a Revell Camaro with a similar problem. It’s time consuming as you need to sand back, apply primer to check the repair then repeat the process until you’re satisfied with the results. Trying for a replacement body may be easier. Hope this helps Don. Cheers, Stuart. 👍🏻

Cool looking 56. Very tidy! What method did you use to remove the Foose lettering from the tailgate? I have this kit in the stash and I don’t really want to build it as the Foose truck. Again, top job. 👍🏻

Love this old Chev pickup. Nice stance and great patina finish. Top stuff. 👍🏻

G’day Bob, that is a sweet looking ride. Gun metal grey always looks good, and it sits real nice ‘n low. Lots to like with this one. 👍🏻

G’day Don. Yes mate, the Tamiya sprays are good but pretty funky regarding their fumes, I mask up and spray outside on a still day. I’m not much help with the dehydrator I’m afraid, but at 30 degrees, it shouldn’t warp the body. Should be something around dehydrator use in the tips and tutorials section. Stu. 👍🏻

Man that’s sweet, the orange with hounds tooth check seat inserts in an awesome looking combo. 👍🏻

G’day Kaci, you build ‘em pretty quick, but they’re always finished beautifully. This R34 is no exception. 👍🏻

G’day Don, I usually bring the car body inside after the final clear coat, where it’s warm and leave it for a week to cure. Some guys use ovens or dehydrators to accelerate the process, but l let mine dry the old fashioned way. 👍🏻

That’s right, I remember you saying on the forum that you’re up in Brissie, certainly would be perfect for spray painting, still in the mid teens here in Hobart, still have to drop the spray can into a cup of hot water before painting! The TS-13 clear should go on nice and smooth in Queensland weather, just start off with a light coat and build up to a wetter final layer. Then put it aside to cure, then polish out as Bill describes. 😊👍🏻

G’day Don. The post by bill-e-boy pretty much covers it, very similar to what I do. TS-13 is a nice gloss clear but care should be taken if spraying over decals. Probably 3 light coats should do it, and have the can warm before you shake it, goes on smoother in nice mild ambient temperatures.My 71 Oldsmobile here was done with the same sort of polishing process described by bill-e-boy and it’s probably my best paint job ever. It takes time, but the end result is worth it. You got this Don. Your Chrysler should look sweet gun metal with red interior.👍🏻