Bainford

I don't think any of them are actually ink. Molotow is promoted as an ink, but it is really an alcohol based acrylic paint. The ink moniker is just marketing fluff. I don't think any of the competing products call their stuff 'ink'. It's all paint of various make-up.

Coming along nicely, good to see it back on the bench. Sounds like you have some of the junk BMF from a couple years ago. The problem with the adhesive has been resolved, so new stuff will work much better.

I'm pretty sure one of the factors here is not enough time permitted for the black to cure. However, the problem is not solvents of the overcoat reacting with the tape adhesive. The problem is more insidious than that. I have had this same problem occur on two occasions. Both times, the paint was cured for months, both times it was lacquer paint (once Duplicolor, and once Tamiya), both times it was Tamiya tape only, and both times no paint was applied over the tape. The tape was used for a purpose other than masking paint, such as protecting painted surfaces during final assembly (how ironic). My problem was the tape was left on too long, probably a couple weeks or so. The result was exactly as shown in your photo. A heavy alligator skin texture with no transfer of adhesive to the paint. The only way forward is sanding out the texture, and if necessary, repainting. I was quite disappointed to find Tamiya tape had this reaction, especially to Tamiya's own lacquer paint, but there it is. To stay on the safe side, be sure paint is FULLY cured (time is your friend) and remove any tape as soon as possible (time is your enemy). In your case the tape was not on too long, but the result is the same. I am intrigued, though, but the vinyl tape David shows above. Some experimenting is in order.

Cheers Bruce. Much better. Thanks for the explanation. Very interesting subject matter here, and the large display engine is a really cool touch..

Congrats on the new shop, Chris. Very nice space. Loving the windows.

Nice work, Bill. An excellent job of one of the most important cars in door slammer drag racing history. I am very glad to see this model built, and such great effort to replicate its unique features in detail. I've been wanting to build a model of this car ever since I first saw it in a magazine in the 80s. On a couple of occasions over the years, I had done a search for a decent starting point, but came up empty. Now that you have done such a great job on it, I don't have to. Thanks for removing one more project from my overcrowded project list. You have really done this drag racing icon justice.

Good looking funny car. Nicely done.

Very cool Maverick, Bob. I think this is the first time I've seen the AMT boxing of the JoHan Maverick. Lovely work on this one. Great finishes and a cool look.

A stunning build, Wayne. Nice finish, and the decals look great.

Very interesting and unexpected subject. Things look quite good so far, though I must say I am disappointed to see the bonnet chrome script represented with a tampo printed (or whatever) solution. Using decals or tampo printing of body script fails completely in 1/25, and I would think is most inexcusable in 1/8. Nonetheless, very cool subject, and I'm looking forward to watching it come together.

Cool project, David. I remember buying this kit in the early 80s, branded as a Revell kit then, and being sorely disappointed when I opened the box. Low parts count, almost no engine or chassis detail, and on the Revell release, no chrome (just a parts tree molded in grey). I had a custom build in mind, but the very thick plastic was a further turn-off. I slapped it together OOB one weekend and it sat unloved on my shelf until a friend saw it and fell in love with it, so I gave it to him. Many years later, armed with improved skills & tools, and with that custom project still in my mind, I purchased a Minicraft version (with chrome plated parts) on ebay. It's waiting in the stash for its turn at the bench. In the meantime, I'll watch yours come together. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Hanjo. You have displayed some beautiful Alfas. Enjoy the forum.

Fantastic! Lovely work, great colours. Very well done.

There are a number of clear coats that will work, depending on how 'dull' you want your chrome. For a cast-aluminum, aluminum plate. or frosted look, try a flat clear. Semi-gloss clear can make chrome look much like machined or finished aluminum. Great for wheels and valve covers, etc. If you are just looking to just take a little of the edge off the shine, my favourite is Alclad Sheen clearcoat. It knocks back the brilliance of chrome, and gives it the appearance of nickel or stainless steel trim or polished aluminum, etc.

Nicely done. Good attention to details. Makes a great looking ambulance.

That's just the bee's knees, Jim. Your efforts have paid off. This build evokes everything it should about period modifieds. I just love this build.

Nice, clean T. I love the simple, old school vibe on this one. Very cool.

That is a stellar build, Jens. Your conversion to Super Bee is top notch. Excellent detailing, and good realism, too. The vinyl top and its attendant trim look particularly good. All round an excellent build. By the way, I'm really digging the well-used look of you 1:1, too.

Lovely work, here. This is a fun build to watch.

Looking fantastic!

I use BSI CA glues frequently, it's been my primary CA glue for two decades. Different builders will have different preferences. I use extra thin (blue label) almost exclusively. I have never tried Super Gold or Maxi Cure.

Welcome to the forum, Michael. It's a good place to get into that modeling groove.

Welcome to the forum, Jacob. Enjoy.

That's looking pretty clean to me. Just some staining remains. Like the others said, prime it and see where you're at.

Nice Vette. I dig the colour. Cool to see one built with the optional Wankle rotary engine.