Bainford

There are specific decal papers for either inkjet or laser printers, and you have to use the correct one for your printer. From descriptions I’ve heard from other modellers, I suspect this is a case of the wrong paper.

Interesting subject, and good looking kit. I’ll be watching this one come together.

Cool little MG, Pat. Nicely done.

I’m not personally aware of any decals, though there seems to be a decal for nearly everything, so they may be out there. However, very fine screen can be found in coffee filter baskets. Replacements can be found in the grocery store, some with brass screen, some with plastic such as nylon, polypropylene or something similar.

Welcome to the forum, Rick.

Very cool! Is a lot of carving and parts forming required? Really nice work here.

Beautiful Mustang! You did a lovely job on this one. Nice & clean, and great detail. Nice clean foiling, and I’d say your getting the hang of the airbrush. Nice paint and perfect colour. Certainly one of the nicest builds I’ve seen of this kit. Very well done.

Like many here, I am quite excited about the possibilities of this technology, and so glad that Round2 is employing it. I have a couple of these kits on my 'Want List', but have not purchased one yet. Can anyone tell me if the body scripts and badges on these kits are reproduced as well, or are we left to replicate those with decals?

Good looking sand dragger. Nice and clean build. I really like the plug wire boots on the valve covers. Nice work.

Really digging this one, Bill. I appreciate the attention to detail and engineering considerations. I have a couple of ‘someday’ hot rod projects I’m preparing for, and taking notes. BYW, any idea of the origin of the QC you’re using?

The new paint looks great. Sits nice, too. What did you strip the nail polish with?

Welcome to the forum, Robert. Very nice looking NASCARs, especially digging the Foyt Cyclone. Cheers.

Cool project, Kurt. I missed this one first time around. Lots of stuff going on here. At first I thought the lengthened body would look awkward, but once painted and assembled, it looks great. Great stuff, very well done.

A correction for those who care; turpentine is not petroleum based. It is sourced from several species of trees, mostly varieties of pine trees.

Looking good, Jim. Classic short-track vibe coming on strong.

Beautiful Merc, Greg. I like the dark grey, and it looks great with the Rudge style wheels. Very nice!

Cool project. Very creative, looks like it was a fun build. Well done.

That's my favourite as well, though I've never seen one with an applicator tip like that. I apply it with a toothpick, though a CA looper would work well, will have to try it. My only complaint with it is the bottle is quite hard plastic and nearly impossible to squeeze some out onto a pallet. Another minor complaint is it does not clean up with water as purported, but that's of little matter. Perhaps a moot point, now that it's no longer available, but at the rate I build, a bottle lasts for many years, and I still have an unopened one in stock. Having said that, my current build has a rather tricky window installation in which the small, scratchbuilt quarter windows have a significant compound curve, and I'll be fitting those with epoxy.

Correct. The panel liner is enamel, and X-20A won't work. Your original idea to use lacquer thinner would probably work best to reconstitute the panel liner, but I would think lacquer thinner would be too hot to use a wash. I would think mineral spirits would be your best bet, often marketed as brush cleaner at the hardware store. Though, by the time you bought some of that, you may as awell just get a new bottle of panel liner.

Beautiful build of a stunning car. Captures the elegance of the 1:1 quite nicely. Well done!

This is a very cool project on several levels.

Bitchin' You nailed the look. Nice work on the paint/stripes. Very cool build. Love it.

Can’t make out the first word, but looks like; something by MIKE SHILDS or SHELDS. The something could be almost anything. Someone will know.

I quite like this type of quiz. A nice change from the 3/4 view, though I like those too. This type of quiz brings new possibilities for quiz subjects. I will say this though, about quiz searching in general; in the last few years google has become miserable when trying to identify a car or confirm the year, etc. It doesn’t matter how specific or direct the search words, not even 10% of the returns are even remotely related to the search. Sometimes much less. Wading through the google quagmire is painful.

My method is similar to yours, though I don’t tape up quite as extensively as that. There are often some edges though, where I may be concerned about accidentally rubbing too much, and I tape those. Depending on the situation, I may not remove the tape until I’m ready for the 8000. I find as the years pass and my feel and control advances, I use tape less often. It seems quite a few builders don’t like the colour sanding and hand rubbing part of the finish, and will go to lengths to avoid it, but it’s one of my favourite parts of the build. Another tip for avoiding burn-through; during the body-prep stage, block sand all of the panel gaps. I do it before primer during the mold-line and flash removal process, but also after the initial primer application to test that I got it flat. There is a very slight raised lip that forms along both sides of panel gaps on many kits, some quite significant. You need to get this flat, or you stand a good chance of burning through. Many of my earlier colour sanding attempts would burn through at the door gaps, which puzzled me as it appears to be a flat surface. But I investigated and discovered the lip there. On some kits the door or trunk lid isn’t even on-plane with its adjacent panel, which seems odd given the nature of a mold, but I’ve seen it a number of times. My block sanding is done with a vinyl drafting eraser wrapped with either 1000 or 1500 grit sand paper, or 600 for rough work, always wet.