Bainford

Sweet little Lotus, Mario. Loving the new backdrop too. Very cool, and looks great with the Lotus. I have one of these kits in progress (nearly done actually, just need to finish it up ). It’s nice kit, a bit simple, but the subtle shapes of the S1 body shell are nicely rendered, as your build attests. Nice work.

Nice story. Cool replica. Well done all around. You’re friend will love it.

Super tidy work. More awards in her future. Well done to you both.

What kind of glue did you use? I’m guessing that the water marks are actually dried, diluted glue. If it is a PVA type glue, you might be able to remove it with a wet cloth, rubbing it gently. If not, PVA glue shouldn’t attack the lacquer, so should be able to buff/polish it off with some polishing compound.

Very nice. Cool old classic. If I knew you were building this, I would have bought some stock in BMF.

Always been curious about this kit. I’m watching.

Super cool. You’re a lucky dude. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum Mattias. Those are super good looking builds. You certainly have a knack for it. Have you done other types of model work in the past? Some impressive skills.

Bought this lot today locally, from an ad on kijiji. $150 Canadian ($110 USD). Not a bad score.

That looks like a scratch builder’s delight.

Scribe deep and keep a sharp edge, and let the shadows do the work. I think keeping the groove thin and clean helps with the contrast between paint and shadow. Pretty much as it does on the 1:1.

Ditto

One thing to keep in mind is that the air trigger is meant to be on or off, no throttling. Since switching to a dual action airbrush a few years ago, I had to re-learn airbrush technique from what I used on my Badger 200 single action of 40 years. A key piece of advice I was given is to hold the air wide open as I make my passes, and just throttle the paint flow with the back & fourth action of the trigger (e.g. As I sweep past the car body, keep the air open but stop the paint flow, then on the return pass, reopen the paint flow, but keeping the air flowing the whole time). However, I find that my Badger 105 has all the finesse and controllability of a spray can. It shouts large quantities of paint and leaves a lot of overspray. I used it twice to paint a body, then put it away. It may become my primer airbrush. I don't know what size my needle is, but it doesn't matter. Fine work is not the forte of the Patriot 105. After 40 years with a single-action/siphon-feed airbrush, I had become dual-action/gravity-feed curious. I bought my Badger 105 at the hobby shop on an impulse buy when the shop owner caught me looking at it and offered me 10% off on the spot. Though I wasn't happy with the 105, I did really like the dual action, and especially the gravity feed, so I splurged on the more expensive airbrush that I really wanted, and I am very happy with it. As for Badger, it's a shame you didn't get the results you were looking for. They really are a stand-up and respected company and generally provide a very good service to hobbyists.

Lotus 38, Jim Clark’s ‘65 Indy winner. They look like decals from the IMC kit, or the Testors release of the same kit in the ‘Those Famous Fords’ series.

I find I get much better ‘feel’ by wet sanding. I am much better able to ‘read’ the surface I’m working, feel the paint being worked, and to what degree I’m removing material. Part of the reason is the sanding medium is not loading up as you work, constantly changing the feel of the sanding medium against the surface. Sanding wet, the feel remains consistent throughout the work, only changing gradually as the surface loses roughness. That way what you feel is the surface, not the sanding medium. I dip the sanding pad frequently, keeping the surface flooded to maintain that consistency of feel. Yes, lots of wiping the surface to check progress. Sometimes every few swipes, when getting close to the mark. Wet sanding also gives you more overall control over the rate of material removal, very important when colour sanding, and allows you to remove material faster with less effort by just cranking up the pressure a bit, while at the same time allowing your sanding pads to last longer. Find your sanding zen.

Two very lovely Lotus! Nice work here, Rich, especially given the issues encountered. You nailed it, though. Both look 'right'. Love them both.

Good looking Judge. Nicely done.

Old school & cool! Love it.

Both are beautiful. Nice clean work. It's good to see these old Revel kits built with care and attention. Lovely work all around. The silver dragster is my favourite of the 60s slingshots. I have the Tony Nancy double kit on the shelf, and that dragster is calling out to me every time I'm at the bench. I'll have to get that one built soon. Seeing the nice work on yours is certainly inspiration.

Wow! Very impressive work. I think you nailed it.

Lovely work. That’s about the nicest build I’ve seen of this kit. The finish is fantastic, especially for polished plastic. Outstanding job.

Sweet Dart! Nice clean work. Beautiful.

Nice, juicy stash, Chris. Lots of cool stuff there.

Or, you are more highly enlightened.

Very cool, Wick. I dig that old school vibe. Nailed it.