Bainford

Nice work on this quirky little Triumph. Back in the 80s there was one of these in the same colour in my neighbourhood. When I clicked on this page, I was instantly transported back to those days.

Absolutely lovely build, Jason. So clean, and the colours all work so beautifully. You have really done this kit and car justice. Nice photography, too. I really need to get one of these kits. I do hope they become available again.

Nice pics, thanks for posting. I have a nice, clean built up of the MPC J car that I hope to tackle some day. I'll save your pics for reference.

Good question. Solvent-based paints have a time-zone during which new coats of paint should not be applied. New coats have to be applied within a specified time from the first coat, or wait the curing period before applying a new coat. This will differ from one manufacturer to the next. Tamiya should post the recoating times on their site, or spray cans sometimes have this information on them. It will say something like; recoat within 6 hrs or wait 48 hrs (those times are representative, not actual times). Make sure your are well past the wait time before applying the second coat. It would be helpful to know what those times are Tamiya lacquers, but I'm guessing plenty of time will have passed when your new paint arrives. Many builders ignore these time limits without issue, though I have also seen many examples of paint problems on this site that were caused by recoating too soon (usually manifesting as pin holes or micro-canyons in the paint surface). I would colour sand the paint, if for no other reason than to speed up the gassing out and curing of the paint. If you have a dehydrator for drying paint, put the body in there for a couple days after colour sanding. When the new paint arrives, start your paint process from scratch (mist coats, then wet coat coat, etc., whatever your process is). Some will say this is all being overly cautious, but there is nothing wrong with heading manufacturers recommendations. Besides, you have the time. One of the site paint gurus (and, to be sure, I am not one) may come along with some better advice, but that's how I would handle it.

Yes, epoxy has a longer working time, and can be very strong. The longer the working time, the stronger the hold; e.g. 30 minute epoxy is stronger than 5 minute epoxy. However, CA can also be very strong, and there are CA glues out there with longer working times also. One advantage of CA is the variety of viscosities available, from extra thin with the consistency of paint thinner, to gap filling CA with a gel consistency. Generally speaking, the thicker the CA, the longer working time. A nice advantage of thin CA is its ability to wick into joint lines. Another advantage of CA the option to use a 'kicker' or accelerator, which when applied to any CA, will cause it to set up instantly. The drawbacks to CA are its tendency to be a bit messy and unknowingly make its way onto your fingers, where it will instantly weld itself to the next thing you touch. CA glue can also 'fog' or 'frost' clear and chrome parts, but there is a fog-free CA available, too, which is good for those parts. Epoxy and CA are both excellent choices, and there will be situations where one will be preferable to the other. I use extra thin CA for almost all of my multi-media gluing, though most CA users employ a medium or thick CA. The well equipped model bench will contain numerous adhesives for various purposes. YMMV

Welcome to the forum, Samuel. I think you'll find 3D printing is becoming a large part of our hobby, and I believe we're only scratching the surface so far. The quality of 3D printed parts is very high, easily rivaling kit parts. Have a look around the forum and you will find several discussions on 3D printing, and good advice from those who have mastered it.

Welcome to the forum, Doug.

Welcome to the forum, John.

Thanks for the great photos. Nice detail shots. It’s a surprise and a shame, the dearth of F1 kits in 1/24. I just can’t seem to develop an interest in building the larger scales.

Welcome to our little sandbox.

Nice Mustang. It has some cool attitude.

Smoooooooth. Beautiful Chevy.

Good looking Dodge. One of my favourite Mopars of the era. The guy across the street has a black one with 440 4-speed. Always looks good going down the road.

That is just beautiful. Very nice work, high degree of realism. Love it!

Fine looking Shelby. Love the sanitary look. All round great build. Nice work on the wheels. Love it!

My recommendation exactly.

Cool style, Ray. Looks good in black.

That is gorgeous. Nice clean work, and I just love the colour. This is one mean looking Vette. Very cool! You mention the colour is kona blue from Splash. What did you use for an undercoat, under the blue?

Cool project, interesting subject. Looking good so far. Cheers.

A 1:1 colour that looks very much like what you are looking for is Lotus Racing Green (LRG) as used on the Elise and Evora. Sources such as Gravity, Splash, or Zero paints may offer some options for this colour.

And that includes the added thickness of the adhesive, too.

Model Master did a British Racing Green that was metallic. Nice colour, though I've not shot it myself. Unfortunately the MM paint line is discontinued, but some paints are still kicking around, and might be found through the usual sources.

Welcome to the forum, Tony.

The Vette is coming along very nicely, Ismael. Nice work sorting out those panel lines.

The dual 4 bbl version is pretty cool. Hhmmm… wheels are turning. Brewing up a new project here. I’m picturing a Maverick bracket car with wicked 300 six power. Darn! Another one for the project book. I’m never going to build them all.