Bainford

Cool sleeper. Really like the style of this build. The gold paint works very well. Nicely done.

Welcome to the forum, Danato. Lovely work on the Pinto modified. Very cool.

Welcome to the forum, Adam. Cheers

Tough looking pavement pounder. Cool period vibe. Nice work.

Nicely done. It evokes an 80s beater perfectly. Nice weathering. Love these Corvairs. If I were to ever own a Chevrolet, it would be a 2nd gen Corvair.

Very cool project. Great concept. Love the look. Sits just right. Love the meaty tires so much more than the rubber bands these types of builds are often saddled with.

Very cool! Nice textures and weathering. Well done.

Sweet little pickup. Looks just right in every way. Nice and clean, too. Wood grain is nicely done. Love it!

Looking good in black.

Looking great! Digging the Moon discs.

Cool! Should be a fun save. Besides, everyone needs a Hemi powered phone booth. I'll be watching the resurrection.

Nothing thick about that, ask questions until it's fully understood. Enamel paint (or any other) does not take longer to cure on 3D printed parts than it does on kit plastic. By nature, it's just slow to cure. Thinning with lacquer thinner helps speed up the cure time, regardless of what part you are painting. I think you'll find that most builders using enamel paint will thin with lacquer thinner. It has sort of become the 'go to' thinner for some time now. I am a regular enamel user, and I thin with regular hardware-store lacquer thinner, or Mr Color self levelling thinner (which is recommended for painting bodies, and is suitable for lacquer paint). It's worth keeping in mind, too, that drying and curing are two different things, though the two terms are frequently used interchangeably. Paint can feel dry, but not be fully cured. Enamel can feel dry in a day or two, but may still take a week or two to fully cure. One trick is to use the sniff test. Smell the painted part close up. If you can still smell the solvents, it's not fully cured. Parts may be handled once they are dried for a while, but I recommend waiting until fully cured before polishing. A food dehydrator can be used to speed up dry/cure times. However, I haven't used 3D printed parts in a dehydrator, so I can't personally recommend it, but it works great on kit parts. Perhaps someone can chime in with info on using a dehydrator with 3D printed parts. If you are interested in the dehydrator technique for your enamel (or any other) painting, there is a lot of information available on the forum. Here's a link

Three or four per year? I wish!

Just found this build. Very cool project. You have done a fine job of the body work; really looks the part. Nicely done.

The Countach is looking great, Dave. Nice work sorting the front air dam.

The Alfa is coming along nicely. I love the vibe of this build.

Bucket Boss for coffee cups is a neat idea. Never seen those before.

Thanks for the link, Bill. Some nice stuff there, but Wow!, those prices. He has a set of 1/25 scale Halibrands I need for an upcoming build, but it will cost $75 CDN to get them to my door.

Very nice, Bill. The Olds turned out great. Your efforts have paid off well. Love the subject matter of this build. Such a good looking car.

Welcome aboard, Allen. By the sounds of it, you will find lots of common ground here with your particular interests. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Grahame. Looking forward to seeing some of your builds. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Mark. Nice clean work there. Cheers.

Bummer. Sorry to hear about the decal/clear woes. I admire your resolve to get it right. I'm digging this build, and glad to see it is still in action.

Just checking in on this thread. I know it's old news now, but that grill work is impressive. Everything else is looking great. It's always fun to watch your builds come together. Top work, Francis.

Very cool project. Looking good. Is this kit 1/32?