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charlie8575

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Everything posted by charlie8575

  1. Given the popularity of 1:1 4-doors, and police models in the plastic world, this could make a good seller, especially if care is taken to include correct equipment. I don't know how many departments actually ordered these (if any), but if there were some, the correct decals would be pretty neat. If not, this would be a good car to use as a detective's/supervisor's/cheif's car. The Vista Cruiser and Sport Wagon shared the 120" with the El Camino, as I remember reading, so that frame was used on all of them, helping adjust the costs of the frame and long driveshaft. The frame horns would differ to accept the different bumpers/front ends. I would use a '65 El Camino as a starting point for the under-carriage, and then modify from just in front of the rear wheels by swapping in the Chevelle rear 1/3 of its chassis plate, cutting as flush as possible to the leading edge of the wheelhouses. The body would require grafting lengthened rear doors onto the Chevelle, and changing the quarters over to the Olds, probably using some sheet plastic to blend things in. The tailgate, I think, had an applique' like the trunk on the F-85, so that would need to be added, too. The El Camino roof could be used to fill in the space between the raised section of the Vista Cruiser roof and the front. The raised bump on the back of the Chevelle roof could be cut out and lifted to form the sky-view windows. The only way to form the sky-view windows would be thin sheet plastic, curved to correct contour, glued in place, with very thin plastic around the openings for the trim. A 2-seater would be easiest to replicate. Start by pretty-well hacking up the Chevelle interior, including removing the front seat. Sand the front seat smooth, and replicate the Olds' rear-seat upholstery pattern on it. The sides, once cut, should have the Olds' front door panels spliced in part into the rear door of the of the Chevelle panels, after sanding them smooth. Use Evergreen and a scriber to match the Olds door-panel. Yep, lots of work, and not easy, but it can be done. Charlie Larkin
  2. I think MCW does one in resin. Uses the Revell '65 SS. Charlie
  3. With a 3-D scanner and old-fashioned drafting tools to double-check (like dividers, calipers, and similar), it isn't a challenge at all. I'm still willing to bet some of the lost 1958-mid '60s annuals will re-surface in some form, especially if they're either high-dollar kits or ones that are readily usable for lots of variants, like the 1962-'63 Pontiac Tempest. Charlie Larkin
  4. This is at least as good as I was hoping. Very, very nice. Charlie Larkin
  5. Considering this is new tooling off the existing drawings, I'm not prepared to write off the possibility. There have been several developments in mould-making that have dropped the costs quite a bit, and with a lot of American mould shops still begging for business (and sharpening their prices, despite actually being fairly cost-competitive already), I think we're going to have some very nice surprises over the next year or two. I, of course, make no guarantee, but I'm not going to say "not happening," either. Charlie Larkin
  6. Very credible job. Charlie Larkin
  7. Came out very nicely. When I've been hitting paint problems of late, I find myself putting "antique" plates on my car and say it's modeled as a preserved original. Charlie Larkin
  8. So you're using it like a 1:1 garage gets used a lot of the time? Got it. ? What is the finished size of that thing? Eye-balling it from the Charger, it looks to be about 4"x6"? Charlie Larkin
  9. That could make an interesting styling-study style custom. I say finish it. Charlie Larkin
  10. I like Steve's idea for making the seats, and think that would work reasonably well. Alternately, you could cut the center out of the bench seat, and fabricate ends using Evergreen sheet. As for the console, That's a pretty simple shape once all is said and done. You can make that with a couple of pieces of styrene stacked, and then sanded to shape. If the lower part of the center was recessed, you can make the lip with small strips. Once assembled, paint. Charlie Larkin
  11. One way you could do that is by measuring a known point on the exterior, and go from there. Pick a part of the car that we know the measurement of. The wheelcovers are about 15" in diameter. Measure those in the photo. We know that 15" is 0.6" in 1/25. Using that standard, you can take the various measurements you need, and get it reasonably close. You look like you've got a really good start at it. I'll enjoy seeing the finished results. Charlie Larkin
  12. The colors of the early '50s cars were, in many cases, rather blah, but, with some work, can still look good. On the '51 Bel-Air, I'm rather partial to the Thistle Gray/Trophy Blue two-tone, which had an interior in grey cloth and painted surfaces accented with navy blue leather. The Nassau Blue on this is a pretty choice. There were similar colors available in the early '50s. Actually, I think Pontiac had a color that wasn't too far off from this, and GM would do special orders like that. Charlie Larkin
  13. Burgundy on the Merc now. I'll give it a color-sand tomorrow, and probably another coat, as no matter what I do, I always seem to remove paint and expose plastic underneath, and I've tried everything I can think of to avoid doing that-, finer grits, sanding pads and blocks, and even polishing compound with microfibre applicators. I'm wondering if the paint is getting softer from what it used to be, or if it's the changes to plastic? Charlie Larkin
  14. That color was actually an accident. I meant to order Sherwood Green (very dark, really nice color), but I've had a lot of very positive feedback on this. Charlie Larkin
  15. No wife, just my dad, and as long as he has a place to make a sandwich or a cup of coffee, he's happy. Charlie Larkin
  16. With upheaval the only constant of late, I've started working on a few easy builds to keep doing something. This '59 Imperial is now awaiting my getting enough courage up to try to foil it. The '66 Merc is in primer, and a few small parts are painted. The color scheme will be Burgundy with a matching interior. The interior of the Imperial will also need detail painting. The colors is Highland Green.
  17. I have to admit, it's pretty slick, and very resourceful. Charlie Larkin
  18. Very real-looking building. Looks to be about 18x24"? Charlie Larkin
  19. Nice job. Charlie Larkin
  20. What a neat idea for a diorama. I might try this. What's the finished size? Charlie Larkin
  21. Very nice work. Charlie Larkin
  22. I'll be subscribing end of the week, I think....providing I actually get paid. Charlie Larkin
  23. This is really excellent news. I'll be subscribing, especially now that our governor is threatening to cancel the world again, and I don't want to miss this issue. Charlie Larkin
  24. That's pure speculation on my part. All I'm saying is that moulds are becoming drastically less-expensive to produce, it becomes closer to a possibility. This short piece gives an overview of how to do it with plastic 3D moulds, which, as stated, would be good for, at most, about 200 parts. The 3D steel moulds would be good for at least 25-30 times that, and possibly more with good maintenance, for less money net than traditional steel or aluminum moulds (for reference, I've brought a Galaxie Chevy to a couple of mould shops, and have been quoted $35-50k, including mould and part design, based on material choice and final parts count). https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/3d-printing-low-run-injection-molds/ Charlie Larkin
  25. Darn. If I could do a rep-stock build, I'd be all over it. From threads elsewhere, I'm wondering if the Monogram Model A moulds might have ended up at Atlantis, possibly with the other 1/24 capital-C Classics? I suppose we'll find out eventually. Charlie Larkin
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