charlie8575

Grabbed mine Monday. Very nicely-moulded and some of the best tires I've ever seen. They absolutely scream "Goodyear" without saying Goodyear because royalties. Still very nice. I may use this as a second 24-hour kit. It's perfect for it. Thinking Cordovan Brown or Monaco Blue, or a couple of other colors I have in the stock I can use. Charlie Larkin

So that's newer construction? Impressive. Vienna is nearer to D.C., correct? Seems a house such as that would sell nicely around there. So, after reading this review...this is what I'm reading: 1. Correct the exhaust. 2. Fill in the scoops on the hood, and make it a flat hood. 3. Present the car as a 302/351-W car, and be done with it, or get one of Ken Kitchen's 240/250 I-6s and a C-4 from Kris Morgan, and make it main-streamer with the Pony interior (which it sounds like this "deluxe" interior is more-or-less like)? Am I on the right track? Might be best to see if Revell does in fact do a new kit if you really want a Mach 1, or turn this into something a little closer to what it might actually be. Charlie Larkin

Nice car, but those houses! Is that Williamsburg, or just someplace with really good architecture? Charlie Larkin

Re: Grille? 3-D print/resin cast of same to the rescue? Charlie Larkin

Ah, I thought you were looking for the Spring Special package. He didn't happen to tell you what manufacturer (i.e., DuPont, Acme-Rogers, Ditzler-PPG, etc.) those came from? Charlie Larkin

I'm interested to see your findings. Charlie Larkin

Have you tried clearing it? Also, do you have any pictures of anything you've painted with this for reference? Charlie Larkin

For most of my exhaust work, I use Vallejo Oily Steel, which has a slightly darker tone, and then dry-brush Vallejo Light and Dark Rust on it. The Dark Rust usually goes well at the joints. Play with that a little. I also find the Oily Steel with the Dark Rust dry-brushed makes for an excellent appearance for near-new exhaust manifolds. Charlie Larkin

So many.... V12 Packards. Never-done or new 1954-'59 Buick/Olds/Pontiac/Cadillacs. More Forward-Look Mopars. The moulds are gone, the kits from Jo-Han aren't coming back. I will volunteer my 1955 Dodge, once restored, for any manufacturer that would like to measure it up. I'd like to see Moebius do a 1948-'50 Hudson. It would require a lot of new parts, but a lot of them would carry over, too. A new 1958 Ford (listening, Revell?) A Chrysler or DeSoto Airflow. More 1940s cars that aren't Fords. A shark-nosed Graham. Any LaSalle, especially the 1934-'36 or 1940 models. A Marmon V16. Just for something totally off the wall. A Stanley Steamer. New pickup trucks, meaning post-'90s. We really need these. 1992-2011 Panther-chassis Fords. Lincoln Mk. III-VIII. Correct, properly-done 1933-'36 Fords, especially a wagon. Stock 1937-'38 Fords. 1939-'48 Mercuries. 1930s Plymouth or Dodge (aside from the Lindberg 1/32 cars). STOCK 1937 Lincoln Zephyr. 1977-'90 Caprice/Impala, or any other B-body, and a correct 1986-'92 Cadillac Brougham. 1979-'91 Panthers. More 1930s luxury cars. 1971-'73 Riviera. 1971-'76 GM wagons. I like the Buick and Olds best, but I'll take any of them. 1978-'87 Pontiac Grand Prix Pontiac Solstice The new Chrysler Pacifica is a cool-looking van. 2010-'19 Ford Taurus with police parts or an SHO. 2011-up Dodge Charger/Chrysler 300. To appeal to the masses, perhaps some contemporary SUVs, like a Grand Cherokee, Suburban/Tahoe, Explorer or Expedition. Some modern, non high-end cars. Make the models relatable, and priced right (around $15-20), and kids might buy, especially if simple, like the Academy Hyundais, although hopefully with a little better engraving. Olds Vista Cruiser/Buick Sport Wagon. Fuselage-body Mopars. A properly-detailed 2015-up Mustang. More brass-era cars. The list goes on. Charlie Larkin

Absolutely amazing. Charlie Larkin

Where did you see this? Charlie Larkin

The plastic moulds...tolerances may be relative, but for probably 200-300 kits, given the shapes, etc. they'll be dealing with, they're still a good deal. A full-detail kit mould would only run about $3,000 to print in high-strength plastic, and maybe another couple hundred for a machinist to clean up. Even if you had to make 3-5 copies of the moulds, you'd still be cutting mould cost by at least half for the machining alone (not counting other development costs, and even they could be reduced substantially, as I think curbside kits, or kits with low parts count would be best. The moulds made from A2 steel should do okay. 3-D A2 steel, from what I'm told, has all the strength and working characteristics of conventional steel except it can't be welded. It can be tapped, threaded, drilled, machined, polished and painted. The major issue with the steel right now is (1) the prices of the printers are still pretty high, and (2) they can't print stuff that's all that big yet. Charlie Larkin

Very cool. Charlie Larkin

What did you end up doing to achieve the correct stock ride height? I'm half-tempted to build mine with a 6/'Glide just to watch eyes go cartoon pinwheel as their brains try to figure out if they're seeing what they're seeing. Charlie Larkin

Very nice execution. The drop only adds to the character. Looks like a T that's been quite used. Charlie Larkin

That fork looks like it operated in a very dusty environment. Or a concrete plant. Good job. Charlie Larkin

Looks good. The silver/grey two-tone wasn't seen much, but it looks nice. Charlie Larkin

Nice to see something a bit different. I like it, and Kris did a nice job on the parts. Charlie Larkin

Very realistic looking. Charlie Larkin

I like the color you picked. I was leaning towards blue. Might consider this scheme, actually. Charlie Larkin

That really came out nicely. Charlie Larkin

This looks really good, Mark. Charlie Larkin

Very nice builds, John. That portable power unit is a neat piece. Charlie Larkin

3-D printed injection moulds may soon become a reality. They're already here for small parts and short production runs. With metal 3-D printers now a reality, as sizes increase, I can see a 3-D metal-printed mould capable of producing a full-detail kit within the next decade, or even less at the rate things are progressing. Charlie Larkin https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-for-injection-molding/?utm_source=direct&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=contentnewsletter-12-20&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWTJOaFpUWmhNREZsTXpsbCIsInQiOiJCOUVsZFdDa1JYeENPTU5Pd1pIWElcLzlNa2g2WkE4STZjUHFCUVZtcGdRVUNwOWZ1VnBjR0x4eWhoU2VMU3B6MG1CS0tcL1BnTWVheit3R0NNdU9oQm82cGR6VTN2aUVGNWp0Vll1QkNmTnRqcDZZY2JxRGVtSUNNMVVtYW8rTTRXckVTaHJ4dHpqM2dkOUEyeGoyUm9sUT09In0%3D

Interesting. I never knew the oil pans and the inspection cover were black. Literally every one I've seen is orange. I'll have to do a little more digging to find out what's right. Charlie Larkin