charlie8575

I've found Tamiya's Chrome Silver acrylic to be quite nice. If you can get it locally (or definitely by mail-order), Humbrol's Chrome Silver is also a good choice. Charlie Larkin

Very cool. If paint problems, do what I've done....create contemporary antique plates, and create the illusion of well-preserved original car, which will have some minor blemishes. Charlie Larkin

Honestly, that would probably be a very good pick. Charlie Larkin

I wonder if Round 2 would be interested in seeing what we'd like next in this program? There are so many great possibilities. Charlie Larkin

The wood was wood, just like the pictures show. Scale Equipment might still have some decals that would look good, or, if you have a local smoke shop, see if they have some empty cigar tubes with the thin cedar liners. Soak them in water overnight, flatten with a weight on a paper towel until completely dry, and use that as an overlay. I'd paint the kit part some kind of more-or-less wood-tone brown, and then use a heavily-thinned enamel paint to work as something of a stain, followed by a couple of coats of clear lacquer for the right shine. Charlie Larkin

Cool. I see a 4-door sedan in the offing for myself if I can get the nerve enough up to do it. Charlie Larkin

All the details escape me at the moment, but the "Too long, didn't read" version is Canada had very high taxes on American-produced parts to encourage its own industry's growth. Where Canada is also a much smaller market than the U.S., it didn't make sense to have exact duplication, so they used the parts that had the highest volume. Canadian Pontiacs, by the way, have their own, unique sheetmetal I found out, after speaking to the local to me owner of a 1959 Parisienne, who discovered this while restoring his car. The Pontiacs had the same 119-inch wheelbase Chevys did. Charlie Larkin

I wonder if they have the 1/32 Ford EXP/Mercury LN7? I wouldn't mind another crack at those. Charlie Larkin

I saw the Round 2 video with the convertible. The hardtop is a go, too? Charlie Larkin

That hardtop conversion is probably the easiest thing on Earth. The GTO hardtop is moulded as a separate piece. All that's required is a little sanding and fitting. For glue, especially with the gap at the windshield, I'd use good old fashioned Testors tube cement for its heavy consistency, and if needed, a very small amount of putty on the bottom. To make sure it's less of a problem, I'd use at least once coat of sealer-filler primer. Charlie Larkin

That came out nicely. Charlie Larkin

Yeah, I definitely need to build mine. Charlie Larkin

Nice conversion work. Charlie Larkin

Good highlighting on some of the pitfalls. Following for more build tips. Charlie Larkin

I really should build mine. Charlie Larkin

A lot of medium-upper-end chocolates have gold foil. One of our local supermarkets sells chocolate almond-butter cups. I held on to the foils for exactly things like this. Charlie Larkin

I usually use paper towels and leave them near good ventilation. Charlie Larkin

All around awesome. Charlie Larkin

Not bad at all. That color does look good on it. Tip for the future: the underhood area on all unit-body Chrysler products (1960-up and 1967-up Imperials) are body-color. Charlie Larkin

Thanks for the building tips. How did you do the outer chrome ring on the grille? That is one part I really wish they moulded separately. Charlie Larkin

I didn't realize these were a full-detail kit. I might have to grab one. The color looks very good on it, also looks appropriate to a Mopar of the era. Re: foiling. Go to a hardware store and get a sharpening stone set. Sharpen the blade every time before you use it. You get more mileage out of the blade, and with it being nice and sharp, better results with the foil. Charlie Larkin

If you and Ed team up, only good things can come of this. Charlie Larkin

My Hupp just arrived in the mail today. Looking at some pictures now for ideas. https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffhp&q=1909+hupmobile+model+20&atb=v222-1&iax=images&ia=images Charlie Larkin

Well, Governor Baker (Mass.) and Governor Lamont (Connecticut, where the car was), got into a whizzing match over who could out-crisis the other, so I couldn't get the car in my driveway until September. I tried to clear the garage to get it under cover for winter, but that didn't happen, so, unfortunately, it was outside. Fortunately, the winter was overall pretty light here. The car is missing: 1. The original oil-bath air cleaner, which was missing. I located one in West Virginia, and it's now in the basement. 2. A gas tank. I also need a trunk floor to attach it to. I do have the straps, anyway. 3. The keys. which is turning into a very interesting problem,. as apparently, getting these locks (re)keyed or repaired is an exercise in "you have got to be kidding me." I'm trying to set enough money aside to get the car titled. Because it was off the road for over 40 years, there are no tax or registration receipts, and Massachusetts will not allow me to transfer it to my name, so I have to register it in Vermont, get the plate there, THEN transfer the title to Massachusetts (Vermont only requires a bill of sale and has no property/residency requirement). So I have to pay for it twice. Aside from what I didn't have, all the parts were there. This spring, I intend to get it running, even if off a gas can. Most likely a gas can. New tanks are $500. This is it coming off the truck, and a few other photos. If anyone has any leads on a complete, matched lock set (doors, ignition, trunk/glove compartment), please let me know. Charlie Larkin

For certain things, they work pretty nicely. I was having trouble mixing the correct shade of aqua for my Nova interior. Lo and behold, for 50 cents/bottle, I could get get a couple of shades of aqua that were about right. With a coat of primer, they cover fairly nicely, too. Charlie Larkin