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charlie8575

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Everything posted by charlie8575

  1. Sharp Road Runner, Tim. I grew up in a Chrysler family on my dad's side and remember well the rust. A lot of it from what I was told also had to do with the Japanese steel that Chrysler used a lot of in the 1970s, which, for whatever reason, was far more rust-prone than American steel. I remember even by the mid-80s, when you still saw a far number of similar-vintage Ford, GM and even AMC cars on the road, a lot of Chrysler products had rotted to the point of junk and were in the yards. My grandmother's Duster had rotted to the point of being unsafe to drive by 1988 when the shock towers went; fortuanately, the Aries we had didn't rust anywhere near as badly. Charlie Larkin
  2. Correct. Bob had some problems getting it where he wanted it, but it finally went up for sale within the last few months. Looks like a nice fret. I've never played with photo-etch, but I don't like the decals in the 88, so I'm probably going to grab it and give it a shot. Question that applies to the 88 and the Cutlass: anyone have any suggestions for keeping the OLDSMOBILE lettering spaced correctly? The only thing I can think of is to cut off the exterior nibs on the O and E, apply the letters, and then remove the spacers, and that doesn't strike me as being too smart an idea. Charlie Larkin
  3. Two reasons. 1. The military guys will throw a screaming fit if the detail is not provided. 2. Check the prices. A lot of that stuff is plenty expensive; you pay more, you get it. Although we're starting to see some changes, it's a big, slow ship that takes a while to turn; I suspect with new machining and design methods, prices could probably be held to a degree, but, as miserable as it may sound, given the model market today, even holding the $30-ish line may not work well. Charlie Larkin
  4. And the repeatedly-proven-to-be-inferior "whole language" "learning" (I had to suppress a sneering laugh while typing that,) as opposed to the phonetic learning of vocabulary most of us grew up with will ensure they can neither say nor spell it. Charlie Larkin
  5. This is probably aimed at armor modelers doing today's world. That's the ONLY justification I can see for doing a car in 1/35 instead of the far more common 1/32 Charlie Larkin
  6. Meets my W-cubed specifications nicely (wild, weird, wonderous.) I might get one of these. Charlie Larkin
  7. Use painter's or Tamiya tape beneath the mouldings. That'll catch errant modeling knives. Remove and give it a quick wipe-down if there's any residue left. Charlie Larkin
  8. I've seen a couple of these built, and ICM deserves complements for such a well-done, if rather fiddly, kit. You did a masterful job, Bruce. Charlie Larkin
  9. Very nice job. Charlie Larkin
  10. Aside from rust, is there anything else I should watch for? When I get a few more things under control, I'm seriously toying with getting one of these, possibly for daily use in the summer- sedan or convertible, doesn't really matter to me. In addition to the styling, what always mesmerized me about these cars was the intensive quality control. I think that helps explain what seems to be a pretty high survival rate. Charlie Larkin
  11. She was having WAY too much fun! What a remarkable truck. Charlie Larkin
  12. There's one garage around here that does it. I need to call them and get an idea. Although there might be some differences based on location, it'll at least give you an idea. Charlie Larkin
  13. I've heard nothing but good stuff about it. I'm going to try and get my Lumina treated before the snow flies. There are a few distributors around the country, and a lot of NAPA stores sell it. If you have trouble getting it down there, let me know, I think I know a couple of places up this way that handle it. Charlie Larkin
  14. This kit, with a little massaging, makes a very nice upgrade to the '67 GTO from what I've read. The only thing you need to do is put a 4-barrel on in place of the Tri-Power. I'm toying with converting one of these into a LeMans Sprint with the OHC six. Charlie Larkin
  15. That engine is incredibly detailed for a 50-year-old model. Very nice. And your work makes it all the better. Charlie Larkin
  16. The revised trim looks good. Did you switch it over to thinner material, too? Charlie Larkin
  17. I think the 1961-64 (especially) and the entire run of these are one of the finest examples of automotive design in history. Nice job, Eric. Charlie Larkin
  18. You might be able to rig something using the motion detector from an outdoor light, like Art suggested. Beyond that, I don't know if there are any other solutions that are either readily available or budget-friendly. Charlie Larkin
  19. Does 999 still exist? I remember seeing someplace that the Henry Ford Museum has it. Charlie Larkin
  20. Oops, missed "other" for location. Hope that doesn't screw you up too bad. Charlie Larkin
  21. Glad to help out from one first-tier MBA student (Isenberg at UMASS-Amherst) to another. Good luck with your project, if you need any extra help, happy to do so. Charlie Larkin
  22. Here, here. The cartoon with mom and kids is one example of why, if I ever convince some poor, unsuspected woman to marry me and have kids, they will be kept away from electronics and made to learn how to do things by hand and mind as much as possible. Charlie Larkin
  23. Wow...from when Tufts was still a college. Now occupying about a third of Sommerville and Medford. Charlie Larkin
  24. Apparently, the Series II 3800 has the same problem with those intake gaskets the 3100/3400 have; I guess the design is similar, so similar problems are to be expected. That aside, it's still a 3800, which is a fantastic, well-designed, strong engine that returns great mileage and will run a long time, as long as the bearings didn't wash. They blew the 3100s in my dad's Cutlass Cruiser and my mom's Lumina; both got new used engines with the gasket replaced prior to installation; with that, Dad was running his with a questionable gasket for about 45,000 miles and it finally seized at 209k. How's the underside and rockers? I've noticed around here that a lot of those cars have rust at the subframe assembly areas, rockers and behind the bumpers. If you can get it around there, I would suggest Fluid-Film to help control the corrosion. We put two grand into Mom's car to have the all the rust, dings and dents removed and a fresh paint job at MAACO. If you're looking to avoid a car payment, while not "cheap," it might help you get that next 16 years out of it. Charlie Larkin
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