Force

I use Google Chrome, I have tried to right click on the image on several web sites and copy the image url and paste it here but all I got then was the link, no picture showed...like this random picture I took from ebay just now to illustrate. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jlAAAOSwDuJWzdGe/s-l1600.jpg But if I hold the cursor on the image right click and copy and paste it here I get this , it's the same picture as the link above and the url is exactly the same, but I get a picture this time...strange. But it was easier to understand with the earlier forum layout, you right clicked on the image you wanted, copied the image url clicked on the "insert image" button on the control panel above the message box here at the forum and paste it on the line there, click ok and you were done...but we have no insert image button now. Well it seems to work when I right click and copy the image so I'll try that from now on when I want to show somethig I found on internet...but I will mostly use my own PB account anyway.

I gladly post pictures if it was easy, as you say a picture says more than 1000 words, It was a lot easier to post pictures with the forum layout we used before the one we use today. I have tried to post pictures found on the internet (from ebay and other places) to no avail so far as I haven't been able to get it to work so I'm pretty much done trying that, it was very easy with the forum layout before this one where it was an "Insert Image" button beside the "Link" button, click the Image button copy and paste img url from the picture you wanted to show and paste it in the img line and you were done...and it almost allways worked. I can post pictures from my PB account fine if I use the IMG codes, copy the IMG link and paste directly here into the message box, the picture doesn't appear until after you click the "Submit Reply" button tho'. I have also been able to post pictures with the "Attach File" feature and upload directly from my computer but I don't want to use that as it takes up space on this server, the "Insert Other Media" feature has never worked for me so far so I have given up on that. It's easier to post a picture found on internet directly if it's possible instead of having to download it to my computer first, go to my PB account and upload it there, copy the img codes and paste it here...well you can upload a picture from internet to you PB account directly but that pretty much takes the same time.

Nice!!

Nice work so far. I'm a little curious, you added yellow square service (parking brake) and red octagon trailer brake knobs to the dash, I though these colored different shaped knobs were a later thing. This truck kit wich was first released in 1969 represents a pre 1972 Unilite cab and I have not seen many Unilite dashboards with these type of knobs, the parking brake and sometimes even the trailer brake were levers and I have seen black and/or green round emergency spring brake release and service knobs just right of the angled instrument part on the dash beside the glove box, you have painted them silver on your dash. The Ertl era version (but it was released way before that, 1973-4ish) of the AMT Peterbilt 359 with the Cummins engine is a 1972 forward 1100 series cab and most of that kit, if not all, is different from this one.

I have some resin torsion bar suspensions for future projects, (Papa Truck, Snowman truck and Movin On truck), one set from P&P Resinworks and two sets from Melbourne Model Truck Accessories and I haven't tried this type of suspension yet so I'm eager to see one put together. The only torsion bar truck suspension i have put together myself is for the single drive on the Super Boss truck.

You can do a Cat 3208 from the Ford/Cat 1160 in the AMT Ford LNT Louisville kit if you change the diesel injection pump from inline to a V configuration, that's the most noticable difference. Here is how you do it : https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/model_magazine_articles/car_modeller/cm09_sept_1991_cate/

Yes they look a bit odd, but as I said, I will most likely combine the AMT and Revell kits (I have both the AMT Canepa and regular T600A) and take the best from both, for example I think I'll use the side skirts or parts from them, the sleeper, mirrors and sun visor from the AMT kit, and maybe some other parts. But I haven't recieved the Revell T600 kit yet so I don't know if it's possible but it will come sometime this week...and I got it for a decent price, I paid under 60 bucks for it.

Yes Kenworth and Peterbilt had their engines painted white, Kenworth up to 1975 and Peterbilt up to 1984, but there are exceptions as you can find white engines after and manufacturers color before the said dates.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the MSD Pro Mag 44 magnetos weren't available the time this car was built and ran back in 1988-89, the MSD Pro Mag 44 became popular almost 10 years later in 1996-97 and are still used today for alcohol and nitro engines, back in the late 80's early 90's they used smaller Mallory Super Mags, so if you want the car to be correct for the time period those are the mags to use. I have seen the car in person as it sits at the Danchuk shop in Santa Ana, California. But I will follow your build and nice work so far.

It depends on what standard you want to have on your builds, some don't care much about things that's not really shown and others like to do the model as accurate as possible and don't take shortcuts...mostly for their own pleasure and that you know it's done right. I belong to the latter crowd

I have the AMT kit and that's far from accurate, this one is most likely better but I don't know if it's entirely correct in every aspect. The Revell T600 has the same Cummins NTC 475 Dual Turbo as their Peterbilt 359 and KW K100 vs the AMT Cummins NTA 370 from the old K123/W925, The Revell kit has KW Air Glide 100 suspension and the same rear frame as their K100 vs the AMT Hendrickson Walking Beam from the K123/W925 and the front of the chassis and hood looks more correct than the AMT...so I thought of maybe combining the two and take the best parts from each kit.

I just bought this.

That idea is pretty much like they had the last couple of years with the Autometer gauges, the light in the gauge flashed red when the reading was too high and stopped flashing when it was back to normal. So it's possibly still like that now with the digital dash.

One way is to post the parts here as there are much knowledge about model trucks on this board. Otherwise you could compare the parts to kit instructions, and if you don't have them a good site to find old truck instructions is https://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks25thscale/truckkit_instructions/ , there are many instructions there from all manufacturers...but it's a bit tideous and time consuming to go through them all.

Of course the old NASCAR racing from the 60's and early 70's were the best but those times will never come back as that type of cars not are made today and most likely never will be again...so I think we have to accept that the times are like they are and make the best of it. I don't have the answer to how NASCAR racing would be more interesting but I think it's viewable and quite exciting now...in two of the last four races the 1st and 2nd place has been decided by photofinish and the cars were 0.01 second appart, (Hamlin and Truex Jr at Daytona and Harvick and Edwards at Phoenix) and all three brands has won races, Toyota one, Chevrolet two and Ford one.

If the tire is hollow you can fill the inside with balls of paper towel or something similar to hold the tire sides out against the rim edges.

I have a Diamond REO kit from the early 90's (black boxart) and it had the wrong tires in it, it came with Good Year 11.00-20 Custom Hi-Miler instead of the Uniroyal 11.00-22 Fleetmaster...well you can get the 11.00-20 tires to fit the rims but the 11.00-22 are the right tires for this kit as far as I know. There has been some different types of tires in the AMT-Ertl truck and trailer kits over the years. Early AMT truck kits like the Kenworth W925 and K123, Peterbilt 359 and 352, Mack, GMC, Chevrolet and Ford trucks originally had Good Year 10.00-20 Custom Hi-Miler tires, and the Diamond REO; White, Western Star, Autocar, White-Freightliner and Kenworth K100 Aerodyne kits had larger Uniroyal 11.00-22 Fleetmaster tires, the Tyrone Malone race truck and transporter kits has no size markings, just "Tyrone Malone Bandag", slicks for the race trucks and regular road tires for the transporters, The Ertl truck and trailer kits had Good Year 11.00-20 Custom Hi-Miler tires that are larger both in diameter and width than the original AMT 10.00-20 tires and these tires comes in most of the re-issued truck kits from Round2-AMT nowadays, I believe these Ertl 11.00-20 tires originally were tooled up by MPC for the Mack DM and gravel trailer kits that Ertl took over...but I can be wrong. Jim, I think you got one 6 too many for the model number on the truck, my kit instruction says C-1164DFL

Mine too I lost count of how many unbuilt kits I have a long time ago, I have bought car and truck kits regulary for almost 40 years and I build few so they seem to add up.

Unfortunately Revell didn't do the slingshot dragsters in 1:25, only 1:16.

Yes the DMold front end is for the Revell 1:25th scale 1969 Mustang Mach 1 to correct it. When I ordered mine I had to wait a while as they were sold out most of the times I looked, but look often because they will hopefully come back.

Very nice indeed.

I have not built any of my 69 Mustang's yet, the two sets I bought are for future projects, I try to buy when the things are available because when you want and need them they are often not available anymore.

Yes you are right, I have found some pictures of the early version but there are not that many of the truck after the restoration.

The Stepp's Towing Services Can-Do is a 379 119 and the kit is the older 359 so it will not be completely correct even if you cange the engine to a Cat 3406 and make it a ATAAC. So as long as we don't get a correct 379 they can make what decals they want for future releases.

I don't know the year of the MPC kit and it's hard to tell as most of the 427 Cobra's looks the same, but it's a 427 Cobra and the 427 engine was produced between 1963 and 1968 and the original 427 Cobra car was produced between 1965 and 1967-68, so the very eary engines would be black and later would be blue if Shelby didn't repaint them. Many 427 Cobra's were delivered with 428 engines after 1966 as there were delivery problems with the expensive difficult to manufacture 427, they look alike and the difference on paper is only 1 cui (it's in fact really 3 cui as the 427 was closer to 425 cui), the 427 has 4.23 bore and 3.78 stroke and the 428 has 4.13 bore and 3.98 stroke so the casting of the 428 blocks was cheaper and more forgiving than the large bore 427 blocks. The 427 High Riser was 1964 only, before it was Low Riser and after Medium Riser, the Side Oiler came 1965, the 427 SOHC came 1964. The Ford teams raced the 427 in NASCAR until the Boss 429 arrived in 1969 and it took over as the main race engine for Ford in NASCAR racing until the 358 cui limit was introduced.