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Everything posted by SSNJim
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Just saw the 280ZX on the shelf today at my LHS (along with the RX7 they've had for a couple of weeks), but not at Hobby Lobby. Hobby Lobby did have the Foose pickup that my LHS still hasn't gotten.
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I have a set of photo-etched saw blades, but I don't know what brand - I don't use them much. I picked them up at my LHS when they had them on the pegboard. My go-to saw is an Exacto #1 knife with an Excel #13 saw blade. The blades are pretty easily available. http://shop.excelblades.com/p/13-fine-saw-blade-5-pcs-1 I have a Zona-type saw, coping saw, hacksaw, Dremel saws, and others, but the #13 is my favorite. Much stiffer than a photo-etched blade, not much thicker (about #11 blade thickness) and easy to use.
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My first job was working in an orange juice factory, but I got canned: couldn't concentrate.
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I haven't bought any car models from them, but I have bought a few submarine models (SSN594/637/637 stretch, two of each). It was a pleasure to do business with them.
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The Ollie's in Jessup had the 90/91 LX Mustang, 99 Mustang SVT, Speedwagon, Sox & Martin GTX, VW Rabbit, Ivo's Showboat, SW&C Willys, Hayes T-Bird, Dodge VTS Ram, Jukebox Ford, and others, along with the generous supply of older Lindberg kits. Nice selection.
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I was wondering how you were masking this. There's no sign of masking materials in the pictures, and I can't imagine taping off the whole car each time you change colors. I do very few multicolor paint jobs. Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing the results.
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Is it just me, or has the site slowed down again?
SSNJim replied to russosborne's topic in How To Use This Board
I have a similar one. When I click on the last read post button (the dot to the left of the topic title), it may take me to page 4 of 5. I read page 4 and go to page 5. When I click back to try to get back to the index, it won't change pages. It will usually go back if I don't change pages (4 to 5). In that case, I generally right click on the back button. It will present a list of the pages I've recently viewed in order. I select the page I want to go to, and it works. The reason I say the page I want to go to is that there is often advertising links between the pages I choose, and I may have to skip them. I use IE11 as my browser. -
I lay awake at night thinking how awful it would be to suffer from insomnia. ===== A quick guide on how to fall downstairs: Step 1 Step 6 Steps 8, 10, 11, 12, 13 ===== I bought a pair of shoes from a drug dealer. I don’t know what he laced them with but I’ve been tripping all day. ===== Just heard that a woman is on trial for beating her husband to death with his guitar collection. The judge asked, "First offender?" She says, "No, first a Gibson, then a Fender!" ===== Life was so much simpler before I got married, I mean who'd have thought there was a wrong way of putting the milk back in the fridge?
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Signs I've seen on hobby shop doors: Unattended children will be sold. Unattended children will be given an espresso and a free puppy.
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Old Kits: To Build / Rebuild or Not
SSNJim replied to gwolf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I typically won't buy a glue bomb unless it is an unusual kit, or has a part I've lost over the years. The last few I bought were a 1971 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler, 1960 Corvair 4 door, 1961 Pontiac Tempest 4 door, 1961 Dodge Phoenix,1969 Lincoln Continental, 1971 Ford Pinto, 1966-ish Olds Toronado, and 1960 Pontiac. Those you don't find unbuilt for less than $25 (The Cyclone and Corvair were more expensive, but comparably priced to a modern kit that's been reissued ad nauseum). All were complete and mostly undamaged, and built to various skill levels. The ones I have started on have disassembled pretty cleanly. I'm working on them at a glacial speed. -
You only got two hours out of the Nova?
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From the inside? Very cool - a flathead engine with a glass head.
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Here's a few more. Been kind of quite here. ----- What's brown and sticky? ... a stick! ----- A man went to a psychiatrist. "Doc," he said, "I keep having these alternating recurring dreams. First I'm a teepee, then I'm a wigwam, then I'm a teepee, and then I'm a wigwam. It's driving me crazy. What's wrong with me?" The doctor replied, "It's very simple. You're two tents." ----- My racing snail isn't doing very well in his races at the moment. I've removed his shell to reduce weight and make him more aerodynamic. It hasn't worked. If anything it's made him more sluggish. ------ I've just bought a gun from a tyrannosaurus Rex. He's a small arms dealer.
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Offbeat Places You Have Purchased Model Kits?
SSNJim replied to Casey's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Up until probably the mid-90's, I used to be able to find them just about everywhere I went. I've found them at Williamsburg Pottery, Radio Shack, convenience stores, dollar stores, auto part stores, gas stations, gift shops, toy stores, drug stores, and on and on. I don't remember ever being in a hobby shop from when I was a teen in the 70's to the late 80's. -
Wounded warrior model kit donations
SSNJim replied to Paul Hettick's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I wasn't saying don't do it; I was saying if you were interested in helping veterans, there are better ways. It all depends on what your goal is. Again, the American Legion, VFW, DAV or other veteran service organizations will probably know who will take your donations. -
Wounded warrior model kit donations
SSNJim replied to Paul Hettick's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Somehow many of the unopened model kits I pick up in thrift stores seem to have some sort of veteran build program label on them. How effective are those programs to have veterans build models? Not very, from my experience. I would donate cash to legitimate veterans' organizations or volunteer your time to help veterans. Contact your nearest American Legion or VFW to determine who is legitimate. The main interest of those two organizations is the welfare of veterans. They can, and will, help you to provide useful services to veterans, or donate cash to somewhere it will do some good. Just my two cents from someone who spent 16 years punching holes in the ocean. -
The most obvious one would be the supercharged Ford 3.8L in the Revell Thunderbird SC kits, and some of their Cougars. A few of the Cougars came with the 302 V-8. As far as non-Ford 3.8s, see above.
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I use something similar - a photo holder I stumbled across at a thrift store for about a buck. Works like a dream.
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Most of the pictures and official painting instructions I've seen of WWII submarines in general have antifouling black or dark grey on the bottom side. I don't think red showed up until the 50s for submarines. It is difficult to get reliable color information for German WWII submarines in particular. There can be a lot of variation in color due to things like weather fading, availability of paints, and care taken in application. Sometimes it's best to get it to the nearest close enough and move on. Revell has 4 colors listed in their instructions for two different paint schemes, all grays. I used Panzer Dunkelgrau Model Master 4795 for the bottom of my Revell XXIII from the waterline down.
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One thing no one has mentioned so far is that the bulk of the bodywork should be done using plastic and cement. With flares for example, you need to build the basic structure out of plastic, then use the putty to cover the flaws. Most of the filler/putty should be sanded away, leaving what is required (a very thin layer) to fill seams and other flaws. Don't build your body kit of filler alone so that there is 1/4" of putty and nothing else. The first time the body flexes, it will pop off.
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85 Ford Ranger?
SSNJim replied to Superpeterbilt's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
No, this one didn't have the blower, was a regular cab, and was a beige color, with purple/magenta highlights IIRC. The wheel wells were extended, too, like a monster truck. It sounds more like the one Casey described. Now I'm going to have to see if I can dig it up and get a picture.