SSNJim

You only got two hours out of the Nova?

From the inside? Very cool - a flathead engine with a glass head.

Here's a few more. Been kind of quite here. ----- What's brown and sticky? ... a stick! ----- A man went to a psychiatrist. "Doc," he said, "I keep having these alternating recurring dreams. First I'm a teepee, then I'm a wigwam, then I'm a teepee, and then I'm a wigwam. It's driving me crazy. What's wrong with me?" The doctor replied, "It's very simple. You're two tents." ----- My racing snail isn't doing very well in his races at the moment. I've removed his shell to reduce weight and make him more aerodynamic. It hasn't worked. If anything it's made him more sluggish. ------ I've just bought a gun from a tyrannosaurus Rex. He's a small arms dealer.

Up until probably the mid-90's, I used to be able to find them just about everywhere I went. I've found them at Williamsburg Pottery, Radio Shack, convenience stores, dollar stores, auto part stores, gas stations, gift shops, toy stores, drug stores, and on and on. I don't remember ever being in a hobby shop from when I was a teen in the 70's to the late 80's.

I wasn't saying don't do it; I was saying if you were interested in helping veterans, there are better ways. It all depends on what your goal is. Again, the American Legion, VFW, DAV or other veteran service organizations will probably know who will take your donations.

Somehow many of the unopened model kits I pick up in thrift stores seem to have some sort of veteran build program label on them. How effective are those programs to have veterans build models? Not very, from my experience. I would donate cash to legitimate veterans' organizations or volunteer your time to help veterans. Contact your nearest American Legion or VFW to determine who is legitimate. The main interest of those two organizations is the welfare of veterans. They can, and will, help you to provide useful services to veterans, or donate cash to somewhere it will do some good. Just my two cents from someone who spent 16 years punching holes in the ocean.

The most obvious one would be the supercharged Ford 3.8L in the Revell Thunderbird SC kits, and some of their Cougars. A few of the Cougars came with the 302 V-8. As far as non-Ford 3.8s, see above.

I use something similar - a photo holder I stumbled across at a thrift store for about a buck. Works like a dream.

Most of the pictures and official painting instructions I've seen of WWII submarines in general have antifouling black or dark grey on the bottom side. I don't think red showed up until the 50s for submarines. It is difficult to get reliable color information for German WWII submarines in particular. There can be a lot of variation in color due to things like weather fading, availability of paints, and care taken in application. Sometimes it's best to get it to the nearest close enough and move on. Revell has 4 colors listed in their instructions for two different paint schemes, all grays. I used Panzer Dunkelgrau Model Master 4795 for the bottom of my Revell XXIII from the waterline down.

I like the work you've done. Looking forward to seeing how this goes. I made many a trip as driver and passenger in gray Dodge Crew Cabs of that era while in the Navy.

Thanks! I'll look it over.

I'd like to see the 32 finished, or at least more of it. It looks pretty interesting. Then again, the CV could probably be finished this weekend.... I've been following that one since you started it. It's my favorite of your builds.

Thanks! I appreciate the chance to see this build. I've been thinking purchasing the kit over. Very cool subject.

One thing no one has mentioned so far is that the bulk of the bodywork should be done using plastic and cement. With flares for example, you need to build the basic structure out of plastic, then use the putty to cover the flaws. Most of the filler/putty should be sanded away, leaving what is required (a very thin layer) to fill seams and other flaws. Don't build your body kit of filler alone so that there is 1/4" of putty and nothing else. The first time the body flexes, it will pop off.

No, this one didn't have the blower, was a regular cab, and was a beige color, with purple/magenta highlights IIRC. The wheel wells were extended, too, like a monster truck. It sounds more like the one Casey described. Now I'm going to have to see if I can dig it up and get a picture.

There was an R/C toy with a plastic body scaled somewhere between 1/24 and 1/20; I think it was by New Bright. The body was fairly decent, but mostly one piece. I think maybe the grille/front bumper was separate and the windows were black. The bed was very shallow, and had two pedestals for a wing. That's all I know of. I usually cruise the toy aisles of the Ross, Marshall, Big Lots, Tuesday Morning, and similar stores looking for decent bodies on cheap RC cars. I've found 2010+ Chevy/GMC trucks, Cadillac Escalades, and a Porsche 918 Spyder. The 918 is better detailed than many static models I've seen. All for less than $10 each.

Thanks, I'd like to go, but not on a Wednesday.

11/16/2016 is a Wednesday. Is your date correct?

Why cast? Build a styrene box to the same dimensions, and raid your spare parts boxes for a couple of hubcaps, a six volt battery or whatever you want on it. You said you were going to modify it, correct? No need to make it any more difficult than necessary. It is a pretty cool piece.

I was always taught if it didn't come out of your body or it wasn't toilet paper, it didn't belong in the toilet. That philosophy has kept my pipes clear so far. Glad you got it clear.

Remember? I've got one. CBs are still heavily used by motorcyclists. A CB was a factory option on my 2007 Honda Goldwing (and has been every year since 1980 or so). I use it to talk to my buddy with the standard factory CB on his 2014 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic. They are both fully integrated into the bikes - you'd never know they were there.

Is the grille and hood interchangeable with the MPC kit?

Revell did a 1/25 2000 Ford Limited Edition Harley Davidson F-150 that included a trailer and Harley motorcycle; it might be an FX something or the other. It's not a Softtail. This would be the second kit I've heard of by a company named Sunny; the first is a Cobra 427. I don't know much about them either. According to a website I found, the first letter will always be F (Big Twin), X (Sportster) or V (Revolution/Vrod). No mention of S, but F can sound like S sometimes.

I gotta agree with Joe. I like the way the top looks.

It's a Rolls Royce Griffon. That's an Allison sitting in front of the boat. Little similarity between the two.