SSNJim

The two I absolutely cannot stand are Pepto-Bismol and Charmin. Those are the most disgusting commercials on TV now. Mr. Whipple must be spinning in his grave.

It sounds to me like you have an MPC annual. One of the options was a "station wagon" which required removing the trunk lid and interior package shelf. They provided a station wagon roof and interior bed for it.

It sounds like this is what you are talking about: No. it's not my car (though I do have a model of it in progress), just something I found on the internet. This particular car has an airbag suspension which can be adjusted in height over a pretty good range. IIRC, it goes from ground level to higher than stock, and can be adjusted while driving. The hydraulics often found on traditional low-riders work pretty much the same way. Things are not always as they appear. I do tend to like the "driveable" models better.

I didn't know what it is either. Interesting product and company - nothing like a 850-1300 HP boost. Turbonique - Wikipedia Check out the second External Link in that article. Lot of ads and tech manuals.

"It takes all kinds of critters to make Farmer Vincent's fritters." - Motel Hell, 1980 This is the first movie I saw on HBO, and the plot is very similar to your documentary.

OK, I'll buy that. I thought it was added later in the run, but it was there from the beginning. Apparently it did reduce the tendency to do a stoppie.

Wouldn't those old Econolines do that stock by just slamming on the brakes?

Tamiya also did a full detail Jeep Cherokee kit about the same time or a bit before. Very nice kit. I think they did a Wrangler also - I can't think of any other American cars done by Tamiya.

That looks great and very smooth. I like it a lot.

Perfect! Thank you so much - those were a huge help. What I should have done is to rotate the top part (that converts to the pallette). What I did was to lift the catch straight up. I'll try again - the right way this time.

So I picked up some Revell steel spray and acrylic paints today. I've tried the Revell RBR Blue spray, and I was pretty pleased with it, so I decided to try the steel spray. I picked up a steel acrylic "box" too to try the brush paints. I pretty much figured out the spray can without too many problems (hint: it's like all the Testors cans), but the little box thing kind of confused me. It's got a little flat cap on it with arrows on it, but no obvious way to turn it. There are little diagonal dashed lines printed on the side, and a catch looking thing on the front. I cut along the diagonal lines, and ended up opening it like a ring or watch box. Paint went all over the place. Apparently there is a little tube (meaning thumb size versus fire hose size) inside that contains the paint, and I managed to spill it. So what did I do wrong? Anything? What is the right way to open them?

Try Intermediate Blue (FS35164). I was happy with it on my 97. I don't think it's too far off. Tamiya AS19 or Testor's Model Master Enamel 1920 (both spray) are two of the matches for it. I've never tried the Tamiya; the Testor's is what I used, but it may be getting hard to find. There are a lot of FS to hobby paint conversion charts on the internet.

Bring on the snappers! Shoot, I'm in my 60's and I really like the series. I just finished the Street Fury and Street Heat, customized to suit my tastes. The Fury had the blower hole filled, and the top part of the side moldings removed. The Concorde had the spoiler and aero bits removed. Very simple, fun models, and I'm anxiously awaiting other releases in this series. In fact, the last two of the four models I have finished recently are a Snap Prowler (fenders and bumpers removed), and a Smyth Performance-ish VW Snap New Beetle. You'll never hear me complaining about snap and simple models. I build more detailed models too, but few get finished, especially with any real underhood or chassis detail.

Yes, the white car is completely mocked up, and nothing is permanently attached except for the interior to the chassis. I sidestepped the whole trying to figure out how to lower the kit suspension thing by simply not using it. That is one of the horrible things I did to the suspension and chassis, along with some Dremel clearancing to get it to sit like the car in the my earlier post. Like I said, it's a curbside. The rear wheels use a metal axle which sits on the frame rails. I'm considering notching the frame rails in the rear to get the car a bit lower and more level. In the front, the metal axle sits between the notched on top frame rail and fender wells. Nice work on yours.

Here are the pictures I promised. The white one is the 93 LX, stiil a WIP. It needs a repaint for a couple of reasons, not the least of which is I seem to have lost my ability to brush paint trim. The gray one is the notchback. It seems to have lost the mirrors, and needs some coat hanger wire to hold the exhaust up. I'll fix them after I move.

I did make it to Simpson's in August. It's just down the road from where I was working at Foulk and Grubb. I always had a hard time finding them open. I was pleased when I did. Very nice shop - they had a pretty good selection of model cars. Here's what I found in DE after a Google search. I'm going to check out the ones near I-95 on my trips to Philly, some of the others on my scooter. The only two I've been to is the first and the last, both of which I enjoyed quite a bit. It's been a few years since I was at Hobby Stop, but they had a good selection too. Simpson's Hobbies Inc 709 Foulk Rd, Wilmington, DE 19803 Trains, Toys & Hobbies 2505B Philadelphia Pike, Claymont, DE 19703 HobbyTown Dover 96 Salt Creek Dr Unit 1, Dover, DE 19901 First State Hobbies 600 Peoples Plaza, Newark, DE 19702 F&N Hobbies 1398 Blackbird Forest Rd #1214, Clayton, DE 19938 SeaSide Hobbies 15 Daisey Ave, Ocean View, DE 19970 Aeromarine Laminates Inc / Hobby Stop 22762 Sussex Hwy, Seaford, DE 19973 There used to be a HobbyTown in Milford, I believe. I would pass it on my way to the beach areas in DE but I haven't been that way in several years. It's not on the HobbyTown site.

I was back in Philly yesterday, and managed to stop by Capelli's. The doors were locked when I visited at 2:30 Friday afternoon. No signs on the door or anything; it could be they're on spring break. Maybe next time.

No, no pictures yet. The notchback has a Cougar body. I had to modify the Cougar trunk to make the top edge of the TBird taillights match, and used the Cougar interior tub. Everything else is TBird. That's one thing I love about these SC/Cougars - everything swaps nice and clean. That's the only one I have completed other than a stock SC with the aero wheels. The 93 LX is one I modified the rocker panels to remove the aero skirts, and used half round to make the body side molding. For the rocker panels, I glued sheet styrene to the lower inside of the body, and started filing. As I progressed, I rescribed the door lines and lowest character line to maintain the depth, then when I had the outside shaped as I wanted them, I contoured the inside of the rocker panel to give it a stock appearance. I also had to slightly narrow the chassis. This will definitely be a curbside - I did a lot of horrible things to the wheel wells and chassis to get the ride height I wanted. It's almost ready for final assembly, but I'm having trouble painting the roof and window trim. This is what I am shooting for, and yes, I have these wheels. The others are in the very early stages. The convertible is just a Cougar body with the roof removed, and will be similar to the notchback. The fastback Cougar is a TBird with the C-pillars removed, and they will be replaced with a more straight C-pillar. I will use the Cougar front and rear fascias. This is the look I'm going for without the pillar at the rear edge of the rear door.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_Sable#/media/File:Ford_Taurus_1990_Mex.JPG I should have some pictures of the notchback and the 93 LX this weekend.

Just got another one at 9:11 ET in the 78 Monaco Full Build WIP topic. I don't use ad blockers on any site; I understand sites need to make a buck. I'm cool with that. The only options I had are shown below, and I could not see the topic. I'm sure it will be fine when I go back to the topic.

Just got one when I clicked on the round button next to the topic "Let's see your 70s "Vantasies"". It took over the screen, so I hit the back arrow. Then I selected the topic again, and it let me in.

I'm here too. Love these Revell SC cars. Converted one into a notch back, working on a bagged 93 LX, a convertible, and a fastback Cougar with a Sable style rear window. Picked up one this weekend to probably replicate my old 92 SC. Nice job. I'm following along too.

With a little work, that looks like it could be a good basis for a Speed33 kit car. Slap a 33/34 Ford frame under it, come up with an interior, massage the body a bit, and you're in business. I've been playing with the Slammers series lately. Just finished a Street Fury, and am working on the Street Heat. Having a blast with them.

Thankfully, they included a more accurate non-operating light bar in the kit, too.

The alternator on my 97 P71 went out at about 110K.

Very nice build. That was a long time in the making. Glad you were able to get it done. I'm going to have to find those Jada GT40s. Those wheels look very similar to the 2005-2009 Mustang V-6 base wheels with the optional spinners, only the Jada ones are more deeply dished.