Chuck Most

Well, he fired Zakk Wylde... what did you expect?

Really cool model! Not a huge NASCAR fan, but I have to say I like seeing people taking the new AMT COT kit and pumping it up a notch. I doubt Revell will get back into the NASCAR biz anytime soon, given the licencing fiasco from a few years back.

Yep, optional second wing. In fact, if you have the MCM contest issue, flip that puppy over and the undecorated kit is in an ad on the back cover.

Jeep shoulda sold something like that!

AMT just introduced a new unmarked version, so you can use your own decals, but if you have this version... what Ken said.

Love it! That air cleaner sure does look familiar.

Love it!

First of all, welcome back! As far as glues go, I mostly use super glues and epoxies, with Tenax glue for styrene when I can find it. Tenax doesn't work with styrene to resin or resin to resin joints (neither will the Testors 'tube glues'), that's where the superglue comes in. For clear and photoetched parts, I use white glue (like Elmer's) or epoxy, since superglue can sometimes fog clear or photoecth parts. Two-part body putty is the best to use for filler, it won't shrink like single part stuff, and doesn't take forever to dry like the old Testors contour putty does. I like to use the Bondo brand stuff- comes in a package with the big tube of putty and the smaller tube of hardener. Mix it in a 4 to one ratio (4parts filler to one part hardener), and you're good to go. And it works on any primed surface, be it plastic, resin, or metal. Hope this helps, and again, welcome back!

I've been looking for pics of it, too. All I can find are images similar to the one in the link, or blurry clips from the show.

Yep- SSB. (I was thinking RMR for some reason, even though I knew that wasn't the company.) He also casts a Ford Super Duty, but will not sell just the cab, only the whole kit. That's why I like your idea!

Glad to see some progress! My War Horse has already hit a brick wall...

The low one could be lower!

Yep.

Gotta love a front-engine Volksrod, especially when it's still air cooled. The beer keg gas tank just seals the deal.

Not sure who, but there is an E-series (cutaway cab) ambulance on the market in resin. But to answer the question, yes, I'd love a late model Ford van in scale!

I was going to ask what brand you were using- I tried the Revell blades, and wasn't too thrilled with how long they lasted. With the Exacto brand blades, I can foil about ten cars before it's time to switch to a fresh one. I usually keep one new, fresh blade specifically for foil work, and once it gets dull, that blade becomes my 'general purpose' blade when the current general purpose blade in the handle gets dull.

I know at least one of those is a Force 440 from Dean's.

Oh, yes! The RamBlur is minty fresh... (Well, the body anyway, the chassis and top taste more like black licorice ) http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/kit-contents/amt/amtertl-snap-fast-s/

I built this kit when it first came out, and I do clearly remember the issue with the hood trim piece. I don't recall the steering shaft issue, but at that time, I wasn't really into the whole 'every last detail' thing, and I probably didn't have a problem with it because I never even installed it. I don't have the model now, but it was medium green metallic, with the custom wheels. It was a pretty enjoyable build for me (other than that hood trim thing). I didn't have the dash to glass interference problem on mine, but I do remember all four wheels did not want to touch the ground without a little finagling.

ON the old AMT '40 kit, which has a flip front right from the get-go, they made a diagonal cut in the fenders, which starts at the door's front edge and goes downward toward the wheel opening at roughly a 45 degree angle. You could also cut the both front fenders free from the doors, and fill in the resulting holes in the doors with sheet styrene, and make it so the complete fenders tilt forward with the hood. (Following the fender line, as you suggested.) I've seen the 1:1 versions done both ways, I guess it would be a matter of personal preference, as well as whichever method would work best for you. If it were me, I think I'd leave the fenders intact- I personally think it looks better than having the seam in the fender, but again, that would be your call. Pics of the AMT version- If you look at the cab, you can see where the rear portion of the fenders are still attached to the doors, while the rest of the fender is separate and combined with the hood.

Hmmmm... I've built ten International Scout IIs (even though it's a LOUSY kit, I love the 1:1 that much), easily as many Lindberg '34 Ford closed cab pickups, and scads of Model A's. And I ALWAYS have at least one or two of those three vehicles in my current projects arsenel at any given time. No... I don't see anything wrong with your behavior at all!

Another Ramblur I'll be converting to full detail. That's the plan, anyway.

I knew the older issues of the '57 had a chopped top option- I always assumed it was like the Studebaker kit, I didn't know it involved quartering the top and gluing it to the window unit! I used to have one of those window units, I just thought it was some butt-ugly looking bubble top for something!

I was shuffling around some stuff on my Fotki page, when I came across this, a photo from an expaned review for MCM I ended up not following through on. This is the recent Round 2 reissue of the Double T kit. The chopped coupe body allowed me to use the leftover T parts to try something I'd never done... build a STOCK Model T! So... two box-stock models, one FACTORY STOCK model. I shock myself sometimes! There you have it- photographic proof I CAN and DO build strictly OOB! I just don't usually WANT to...