David G.

Very Cool! Love the scroll work. I put Hippy flower decals all over mine. David G.

Looks good so far. I think the silver will go well with a black vinyl top, if that's your plan. David G.

I know it's been a while since I worked on this one. I kind of did a rage quit because of some issues I was having but I decided to give this one another go. Here are some jack stands I finished the other day. This is listed as an air conditioner but I think that something was lost in translation because it looks like a wall furnace to me. I wish I would have thought to put a little weight in the bottom before I glued the back on but I didn't, oh well. I put some double stick tape on the back instead. It will always be placed against a wall so, there you go. Here's a view of the shop with all of the new additions in place. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

Looks great! Nicely detailed, good color choice. David G.

Hello All! Lately I've been spending more time than I would like correcting a couple of paint issues so I haven't accomplished as much as I would have liked. I did however find the time to get enough done to post this minor update. Here are some of the chromie bits that have been stripped of their "chrome" and repainted in gloss black. I'm trying a new chrome paint called Spaz Stix. It comes in a can so I don't have to fire up my airbrush and it's supposed to be a bit more durable than the Alclad that I normally use. The result looks pretty good but I think I need a little more practice. I probably over painted just a little. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

Hmmm, Looks familiar. David G.

Hi Gareth. You mentioned changing the wheel arches. Are correcting a kit design issue or an automotive design issue? I built this kit earlier this year and aside from the valance issue, the kit's body lines seemed correct to my eye. Or at least, not glaringly incorrect. The only real complaint I have with this kit is the complete lack of mirrors, which kind of seems to be a thing with AMT kits. In any event, I'm very interested to see which direction you decide to go with this kit. David G.

Excellent rescue! The Pontiac Tempest is one of my favorite cars. I always thought it was a much better pony than the Mustang. David G.

Thanks Randy, me too. Though I have had to set project aside until I could develop the skills to correct some issues, I usually get them sorted out. Thanks Jeff. I actually decided not to go with that look for this car and repainted those bits. Thank you for the link Håkan, they have some really good decals that are difficult or impossible to find any other way. I plan on using their Roadrunner decals when I build my '70 SuperBird. I wish I would have thought to check their offerings earlier but I started building this one on a whim. And well, I feel I'm just a little too far down this path to include them now. Thank you all for your comments, I truly do appreciate them. I should have another update soon. David G.

I've been working on solving some chassis alignment issues so here's the story on that. No, I'm not building a hydro-hopper. The frame warp that I mentioned earlier seems to be creating more issues. I have to see what it will take to get all four wheels on the ground. I noticed that there was a locator pin on the floorboard that was not seating properly (shown here after I pried the frame from the floorboard). I removed it and reassembled the frame. This improved the situation but didn't correct it completely. This is an extension of the same issue I was dealing with earlier when mating the frame and floor. At that time, the locator pin would snap into place only after a bit of coaxing and at the loss of alignment on one or two of the other three pins. I didn't notice any obvious warp once the frame and floor were glued together but apparently it was there. The next obvious step was to relocate the wheel mounting spindle. I sawed the spindle from steering knuckle and drilled it for a wire pin. I then set the chassis on a level surface and used the assembled wheel and spindle as a guide to locate and drill the hole for the wire in the steering knuckle. I then blobbed the whole assembly with CA and allowed it to cure. This is probably how I should have done this in the first place but I like to work a problem from the root up. Wheels Down! Now that the chassis is done, I can move on to finishing the interior. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

Back in 2010, John Teresi, a member of this community, built his version of the Thunderflight custom Thunderbird using Alclad as the finish. Mr. Teresi is a highly skilled model builder who shares his work on this board. Though all of his work is exceptional, I was tremendously impressed with his version of the Thunderflight T-Bird. Here is a link to the Thunderflight WIP. Prepare to have your brain melted! David G.

Looks great so far! I like your detailing on the interior. David G.

Beautiful work! Congratulations on the feature, what a great validation. David G.

I think you may have a special appreciation for this one Si. A short time ago I was working to correct an issue with one of the models I was working on, a phrase popped into my mind. "Model builders, we're problem solvers who create our own problems to solve! " I think I may add it to my signature line. David G.

I guess we're makin' more people than toys now. David G.

Excellent work! David G.

My condolences to you and your family Carl. May you find peace and comfort in the days ahead. David G.

Thanks Randy. Maybe I should do tutorials, eh? Thank you Dominick, I'm glad you like it. The yellow I used for the engine is Tamiya TS-47 Chrome Yellow. I should have more photos to post soon. Thanks again. David G.

Hello Everybody! I'm back with another update. Okay so I did a thing. I was having some difficulty fitting the frame to the floorboard due to some slight warpage of one or the other. I was focused on properly aligning and fitting those two pieces together and clamping them before the adhesive could set. Which takes about ninety seconds. Somewhere amidst my several assembly attempts, the exhaust pipe shifted from its proper location. The exhaust pipe is supposed to pass below the cross member above the axle then between the frame and rear spring. Nothing that a little time and effort won't fix. I've already started cutting the pipe just ahead of the cross member. After cutting the part loose, I drilled both ends and glued a wire into one of the ends. This will help in aligning the two pieces and holding them together for reassembly. With the wire trimmed to an appropriate length and inserted into the other piece, final placement and assembly can begin. This also allows for a bit of wiggle room during assembly. After properly routing and aligning the two parts, they were glued together and allowed to cure. Once that was done, the joint was smoothed out and the paint was touched up. On to the next activity! Model builders, we're problem solvers who create our own problems to solve! As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.

Looks great so far Si, can't wait to see more. This bit seems to be coming together rather quickly for you. David G.

Show-Stopper Quality! There's too much good going on here to pick any one thing to comment on. David G.

Excellent work! All the custom bits are well fitted. Great looking interior. But that roof would be a killer at freeway speeds, talk about buffeting ? It would have to have some strong anchor points. David G.

Ah, that makes sense. It was just conspicuous in its absence. David G.

Well Done! Looking at the end result, one would never guess that there was so much work behind it. David G.

Sweet Pinto! Your paint looks great. It's nice to see the orphans get some attention once in a while. David G.