Mike Kucaba

Whenever I see this without the top,I think' Bubble Top". When this gets cast, I'll buy three!!!!

I'm a little confused here. Your name under your avatar is Gene XXXXX, But in your sig line is Bill XXXXX? Anyway, I know I'll catch some flak here, but ditch the Krylon and move to one of the better Lacquers like Tamiya. I KNOW they are costly, but what about the cost of multiple failed paint jobs. Even the Testor's Line of Lacquers is a step up.

Why do you paint outside? Are you painting with the wind blowing? With rattle cans and enamels at that, warming the cans and shaking a lot is very important. Any time I screw up painting it can be traced to impatience. I don't think painting from the top down or bottom up matters. I've painted both ways and got great results. Try and get some shelter when painting out side. HTH

WOW Peter! When you comeback you REALLY comeback!! what a build. That and the TIMBS...

Beautiful work no matter how crudely done the original kits are/were. You are a master craftsman in my opinion!

Same here! Dan's a great trader.

Fantastic build!! (We STILL need a SPEECHLESS emoticon)

Where would one be from a kit? "55 - 57 Chevies from AMT or were those manuals?

Nice work Casey. I had a '92 S-10 Club cab with standard size bed. Nice truck. Sounded great after I went with dual exhaust from the cats back and no mufflers! It eventually succumbed to the ravages of snow & salt in the Chicago area. I did buy a resin cast kit from Perry's. started it and never finished as the truck became worse for wear.

Very nice build! Like the front end exposed idea. I have 3 of these in the stash, and may use that on one of the builds.

Just fabulous!! You are to be commended for your perseverance. Welcome back, I was just about to do a Where's Waldo about you

Good advice on the glass. If it does break, or just isn't clear after polishing, Modelhaus has vac form windows.The dipping in Future helps that stuff too.

I saw this thread before and had a comment about it, but kept my trap shut. I guess I'll open it now. So how would someone who had the equipment, knowledge, capital AND several desirable resin kits be treated if they were copied and made available?

Try moving the block at 45 degree angles to the low area also helps.

I used the tops from a couple of Tamiya spray cans for wheel wells on a 1/16th Mustang. I suppose there are multiple ways to do this with a little thought put into it. Using aluminum from a pop can could work and if the pieces were laid on a semi-soft material the ribs that you see on 1:1 tubs can be scored in with a ball end of pen.

Not necessarily today, but it happens. The modeler that just has to have a certain factory color paint. Many people respond with several excellent sources, only THEN to be told that it must be a rattle can as they don't do air-brush!

I agree with Harry. Check for warping and did the windshield & rear window survive? Many of Mono's big scale kits have a broken part(s) problem.

GASP !! How dare you!! Looks great!!

Looks real and the roof debacle seems to disappear when built=up and painted nicely. Thumbs-up !!

You pull the tape back against it self on an angle as soon as you can.

How does it end?

Isn't that point moot if you build as the RT? The scallops are covered by the scoops?

The 1/16th by Revell of Germany. I chopped it already, leaving the rear fenders on. I chopped it like I would a '49 Mercury. I did start at the front and worked my way back. It turned out great! Still have to do the doors, wanted to get a lot of the finishing out of the way before doing that. Even though I braced it a lot. the body was really fragile during the cutting/scribing. Thanks for the tips everyone.

If you want cheap AND good use Magic-sculpt. 5 pounds $30.00.

Wow Good stuff !