Mike Kucaba

Completed a trade with Jim Stepanek (crazyjim) and all went well.

Practice, Patience, Practice Possibly try Tamiya. Fish eyes usually mean foreign stuff on the surface.

With this build it appears nothing is impossible!! Great work and quite the accomplishment.

Nice! Very much like we saw at U.S 30 and Oswego back in the day.

It helps if the PP is warm.

Aoshima, Fujimi, Micro-nitro, and a host of niche folks. A couple are here on this forum.

Nice work! That would make a neat model. Does anyone know if there is a model close enough fro the base?

Very nice!

Completed a trade with Dragline (Bob Frias) and I'm pleased. Got a large scale kit with excellent packaging!

'ya know everyone makes good points on this concept, and realism is great to try and achieve but this is supposed to be Mythical

WOW I like that!! The Viper chassis looks like it belongs there. I see yellow plastic on part of the frame, were two frames needed? Nice work.

I use tack rags. I cut them into small squares and stack them in a plastic container. I pull one out and wad it up and dab at the car body then toss it. The size is about 3x3 inches. I use the blue ones.

Yes! I use to make Saturday morning runs up there to shop. This was from Southwest suburb of Chicago!!

Just completed (both ends) a trade with timc ( Tim Cassady) and all went well.

Fabulous pics Wayne!! I sometimes hesitate to post comments without documentation Where do I send the check(or kits). Thank you!

The "leaf springs" I mentioned, are more apt to be referred to as a form of torsion bar(s). they were fastened somehow to the lower control arm and ran forward to somewhere on the frame. I have a better pic and description in an older issue of SSDI. I'm disappointed that in all the images I looked at on Google, I couldn't find one pic or good exploded view.

I was aware of the interior problem, but roll and pleats? That original stock seat looks like seat Covers LOL. have you thought about using interior parts from the AMT '62 Pontiac Catalina? That one is quite good for rep stock look, don't know how well it would fit or even if it would, but it's worth a look, and way cheaper than buying the Trumpeter hard top. Good luck on the build!!

Good start! I don't know how correct you want to get, but those cars had a unique front suspension where the coil springs were replace by a flat leaf on either side. Google Mustang AFX front suspension and see what comes up. It may not apply to the one your using for reference though as that was done on the cars supplied to the Ford sponsored racers.

I never found the "Nails" in AMT promos, Those were usually a screw with a slot. The nails in the Jo han promos I removed similar to Art's method, but I used a small pair of side cutters.

I found this ebay seller's rules funny!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/400254543263?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 I hope this link works

Use the spoon test. Spray a plastic spoon with acrylic and let dry then spray the enamel and see what happens.

Unfortunately, it depends what the temperature is where you're painting. Here in AZ in the winter months I could probably put the freshly painted model in about a few hours after spraying. In the summer months, my patio is probably 100 degrees F. so I find my self bringing the model in the air-conditioned house.

Well... when Mono and Revell merged, that took care of that!

BMF, Carbon Fiber, complete builds etc. etc oh yeah! interiors too.

I don't know if you painted lacquer or enamel or acrylic, but I prefer with lacquer to not put it in a dehydrator right away. Give lacquer an bit to air out. Lacquer dries fast & hard without forced drying anyway. If it is enamel or acrylic it can probably go in right away.