Codi

Now THAT is an attention grabber Kurt and with the name of your topic, I can find it easily to follow along in the future. Very cool build. cheers, tim

That truly looks great. I like the diorama you created for it. Truly lends to the build. Congrats on a great job. Tim

I like that tip you shared Francis on using the tip of the end mill to cut the grooves on the out-put shaft. Filed that one away for future use. cheers, tim

I too like the stance of the car sitting on the chassis. nice one Ian. cheers

Nice progress John. Can't wait to see the paint on it now.............cheers, tim

Super slick job on the hood Alex. Will certainly follow along as well. cheers, tim

Looks fantastic on all 4's and buttoned up Mark. That certainly put a smile on your face. cheers, tim

And it's a great material for quick proofing of designs / operations on the machine........I can machine a teeny part in a fraction of the time it would take in metal to see if something is even feasible. Glues together great with CA. Instantly though so if you're working with it for the first time, practice and test it first. Once bonded, it doesn't come apart. Dave Sherman shared that tip and he wasn't kidding.

Gentlemen, THANK YOU one and all for your interest still. This has been slow going but now with school officially over (and also the end of my teaching duties) I can hopefully be more productive. I'll try to explain briefly the pics in order.....the 1st pic is of the bottom half of the carb top plate. The pic shows it on the mill before parting off... I took one of the top portions shown earlier and placed it on this piece just to get a look. It does give a bit of a preview of what the finished carb should look like at least in terms of overall height. These are the top and bottom portions now that the bottom is parted off..........they're less than .5 thick The next 3 pics show the two halves joined together with some tubes inserted to line em' up.........looking at the 2 middle throats you can see they're a pretty good fit....... This last pic is the result of a lot of hours re-thinking and drawing how I want to do the main bodies of the carbs. I took some Renshape and spent an hour proofing out my drawings and the feasibility of my idea. I truly wanted to do the feet as part of the barrel/carb itself. The hold in each is .3 and the overall width of each "foot" ( I call them tangs) is only .6mm......I will have to do a new tool to be able to flip the ends to round them properly as I did for the top plates.........I'm very happy with it and I'm going to do these next (4 of them) If that goes well, just the base plate/portion and the accelerator pump and fuel bowl details.

Ah Justin, good to see you took my advice to buy the book I recommended. btw, the quote you just described in the book was kind of my point that I shared with you earlier, in that if you want to get the most out of learning HOW to machine and if you can afford it, buy the mill FIRST. You'll learn more and be more capable after the fact if you can learn to use the mill properly. A couple years after I bought my mill, when I finally ordered a lathe from Sherline, it was like ho-hum....set it up and ran it. Just that much simpler. I'm sure you'll love your Sherline lathe when you get it. cheers, Codi

Thank you everyone for the replies and input on the pic situation. Seems it strictly an iPhone issue. No problems on a computer per se. On the iPhone just turn it horizontally and they'll come into focus if you're interested. I did want to reply to Claude and his offer.....I actually bought that very issue about a month or so ago. You should all the info I now have on these carbs. They are every bit the challenge to make I can assure you. More experimenting today and then doing final drawings. Cheers and thanks once more!!!

Hey John, thanks for the heads-up. On my end the pics look normal. My notebook is NOT an apple. My apple iphone distorts the pics unless I turn the phone horizontally, vertically they're distorted which is what I think you're seeing. How far back are the pics distorted when you go back John? I'm trying to pinpoint a date when the problem started. Anybody else having the same issues viewing my posted pics? If so, please let me know if you're using an apple or windows based notebook. I'm thinking it might be a software hiccup. Just not sure on which end though. Thanks, Tim

Okay, remember, I am s--l--o--w. Builders like Francis and John Teresi just fly through major projects but I do plod along. Got the twin of the top plates done for the carbs. I've always been big on the "visual". For whatever reason, I want to "see" it along the way to ensure the vision is on track. After getting the other plate done, I put them on top of the engine at the approximate height they'll be off the deck. They're about 1mm too close to each other as an fyi. I came up with a solution on assembly of them I think and I might add mini (2.5mm tall) polished velocity stacks to them similar to an Ak Miller intake that I came across for this particular carb. cheers!!!

Nice can Francis........I like the way you machined it too. You're really chugging along now with it. Keep her going, love the updates. cheers

Ingenious solution for the hood vents Ray. I wasn't familiar with this car until I checked out your thread. Sharp car & project. cheers, tim

Sorry I missed this thread till now. I'll be sure to follow like many others Jeff. cheers, tim

Your car is coming along very nicely Daniel. I like the imagination you're putting into it to make it more realistic and the way you're going about making them. A scratch-builder thru and thru. Thanks too for the compliment. cheers, tim

Fantastic work here Scott. Appreciate the pics and how clean the build and assembly are. I'm also in the camp of WOW when it comes to the blue you're going for. This will be a real stunner. cheers, tim

S-W-E-E-T John.

John does not have a "comfort zone". There is nothing he won't attempt to build AND be successful in pulling it off. Love the progress John and the chassis looks great in color now. Best to ya', tim

Thanks Joe.....what / where did you post the other build btw? Time to get back to the Maverick though. ? Since my post earlier this morning, I got the part off the block and I'll take a few moments to describe how it was made. A. Pic 1 you'll see dowel pins that locate center on the piece. I made matching holes in the work piece. (the taller alum. block) To make the radii on each end of the piece I cut the one end on center, removed the piece and flipped it so I could cut the other end to match it. I learned this from Dave (comp1839). I put oversized 3/16" dowels in because I tried 1/8" but they were sloppy. Far too much play and the lip / radii would have truly been hit or miss. So instead of junking my "puck" I re-did the holes using a pre--ream end mill and reamer. Jackpot. I had never done this before so I was happy it turned out. I had to drill the necessary air holes in the puck as the tolerances were so snug, the air trapped inside would have prevented the dowels from dropping in. The center hole is 1/16" and goes all the way through whereas the other dowel pin off center is drilled into the side of the puck for air to exit. Hope all this makes sense. B. Pic 2- Trying to figure out how to secure the work piece without interfering with the saw blade was a head scratcher. No room to clamp the top of the piece without hitting the blade. So, I took a piece of 3/16" alum rod, drilled 2 holes on each end and then secured it with steel wire wrapped around the posts you see. I then tightened the nuts down to draw down the wire till it was snug. Since the force exerted on the piece was minimal during the sawing process, this worked out perfectly. I just had to be sure that the saw could not "lift" the piece off the dowels while cutting it. The work piece stayed flat on the puck and the final piece itself is perfectly level. Yeah. The final 2 pics show the piece now that it's removed. Now to make its twin.

Thanks Daniel. It has been "involved"......I came up with a 2nd idea on how to fab the top portions that I'm still considering doing. Currently I have to make 4 different pieces to replicate just the top portion of the 2 carbs. Have an idea for a new fixture that might make it easier but I don't know if it would be as accurate. hmmmm Hey Dave, the gentleman that let me take pics and measurements of the real deal offered to sell it to me for 5k. in existing state. For a one of a kind piece, didn't seem toooo crazy. Hi there Chris......yeah set-up is everything. I'm now discovering I've painted myself into a corner when it comes to parting it off. I won't get into the details of it, but today I'm going to try something irregardless. If I junk the part, well, see my reply to Daniel........maybe plan "B" ??? Pete, no problem.........if you reconsider, please let me know. Cheers, Tim

Nice pan and cover Francis. Like everyone else, appreciate the detailed description on how you achieve each piece. Thanks for sharing, Tim

Effort high, results low but I got the first of the pair of carb top plates as I call em'. Still have to drill 12 holes in it yet and part it off. I wanted to capture the lip on it and the radius on each end. I used a technique that I learned from Dave (comp1839). When I pull the piece off the fixture I'll explain and include a pic or 2. I'm sure there are easier ways of doing it but adding the lip was a must. cheers, tim

Francis was right Lorne. You're a heckuva talent and this build deserves a higher level of interest / eyeballs. I'll be sure to follow along and can't wait for your next post. cheers, tim