Tom Geiger

Very nice! Thanks for sharing the step by step conversion process!

This is one of those subjects that goes to personal preference and pleasing your own eye. If indeed flake size was absolutely to scale, it would be called "dust" and wouldn't be visible. So there's some improvisation that needs to occur to please our eye that it's there, but not large enough to give that bass boat effect. Same thing with clear coat. Many people polish bodies way beyond actual gloss. And never mind the guys who gloss over Nascar decals!

When I can't sleep a small dish of ice cream will put me right out. Something about the cold and snuggling under the covers after eating it. And then there are times I believe I'm laying there awake, but my wife informs me that I was asleep. Probably dreaming I was awake!

that's spreading wildly!

It's like this.... Round 2 puts out Coke kits they complain. People complain that kids aren't getting into the hobby, so Revell brought out some simple kits for kids, and they complain! Revell chases the youth market with the Foose kits, and they complain. Revell rises from the ashes and opens up a brand new operation to serve the US market, and they complain that new kits aren't out that same week. Any manufacturer comes out with a long requested new kit, and they complain! See a pattern here?

You need a degree in shipping! I just did a quick look. A single model kit (Revell 1968 Chevelle) weighs 12.6 oz. Dimensions are 9-1/4" x 4-1/4" x 6-3/4" It fits in the 11" x 8-1/2" x 5-1/2" Priority Mail Flat Rate Box - That box costs $14.35 to ship IF I'm mailing it from my home in Pennsylvania to California, and I use my own box (5oz) I'm shipping 1 lb, 2 oz. That will cost me $14.20 by weight. So it's only a .15 cent difference. Now, the whole idea of the flat rate box is that you can ship things that are heavier in that box. Basically you can fill it up solid with screws and it still cost $14.35. If I use my own box to mail 2lbs 2oz it jumps to $19.05 and 4lbs 2oz is a whopping $25.45 so the priority flat rate is the winner here. IF I'm mailing from my home in Pennsylvania to New Jersey, that's zone A. That flat rate box is still $14.35, BUT since this is a lot closer regular priority mail is only $7.85. Using a Regional A box, it's even cheaper at $7.65. The catch is that the Regional service isn't available at the counter, only click and ship. In this case you want to avoid the flat rate box. Even getting heavier, 2 lbs, 2 oz is only $8.30 and 4lbs, 2 oz is only $9.80.

with 120 grit?

Bingo! I'm not above allowing Coke collectors to keep Round 2 in business so they can invest more in kits I wish to buy! Tom Lowe is a master of marketing to niche markets. See how they have positioned themselves into the TV and Movie memoribilia markets as well. Hint- Three markets much bigger than ours! BTW, this kit as the most gorgeous Coke decal sheet I've ever seen! Worth the price of the kit just for the decals!

Congrats! I'm a 38 year survivor here!

Aha! Sanjay was doing similar gigs. Amazing, first season... two runner ups Justin and Kelly Clarkson. She's a major star and he's doing... well, that! LOL

As of this evening the chassis is finished. Engine installed and we are up on wheels. I did a body mock up just to see where we stood...

If you own the kits, do a dry run with white glue. A few things to check would be wheel base and track width. I know on the 1:1 truck, Foose moved the front axle. It's definitely do-able. It's a matter of how much work you are willing to do and your experience level. I have the Foose chassis under the recent re-release of the old MPC Datsun pickup. It was a bunch of work but I had fun doing it. I had to shorten the chassis and cut sections of both the front and rear of it. I honed out the Datsun's wheel wells and added flares to accommodate the chassis's track and wide tires. I had to completely fabricate the Datsun's cab floor to allow for the Foose engine and trans.

Getting there. She's fighting me every step of the way, but we will soon cross that finish line! Still have a million little details. I do these mock ups and photos so I can see any issues that I don't see on the bench. The hood needs another coat or two of red, then the clear. But we are officially up on wheels. The chassis is complete, the engine is in place. Amen! I've redone so many items. I cleaned up and painted a second fender unit after I noticed the first one was warped. Not messing around, I have multiple kits and I'd rather bring in a new piece than mess with the warp in final assembly and maybe have it return later. Decals! That's the third set. Once I finally got a set to sit nice, I realized they were too low and into the fenders. This is the final and it works. I do not like the fit between the rear of the running board and the rear fenders. Note that I did widen the rear fender but didn't take that into account on the running board. Do I fix that gap and repaint the entire thing again or do I just sigh and live with it? I also see that the yellow wheels are against the yellow fenders. Should I paint another set of wheels red with yellow caps? I do have the materials. I could always use the yellow wheels on a future street rod. I have been frustrated with the piles of parts on the bench. Getting the chassis finished tonight was a major step and once I did this mock up I sat back and just looked. I do like it. It's coming out how the voices in my head have dictated. Anyway, my goal is to have this finished for my club meeting on August 10th.

Technically Correct reminds me of a story.... Once upon a time a helicopter was lost in the fog in Seattle and couldn't find the airport. It came upon a tall office building and got the attention of the people inside. They wrote up a quick sign and flashed them "Where Are We???" The building occupants scurried and posted back a sign of their own that said "You Are In A Helicopter" The pilot immediately went into action and found the airport. The passengers asked him how he found the airport from that information... He replied, "I knew it must be the Microsoft building because they gave me technically correct but totally useless information." And he knew how to get to the airport from there. I was out in Seattle a few times this month and chuckled as I rode past their building..

Hey Bob! Pack all your stuff up in a box and bring it to our club meeting! The Tri-State Scale Model Car Club meets the second Saturday of every month in Perth Amboy, NJ. at 1pm. We have a great group of great builders who can help you sort out your issues. We have a good time and we always have pizza and chicken! Give us a shout! Meeting directions and info can be found on our website: https://www.tssmcc.com/ And then there's that little show we do every April... https://www.nnleast.com/

No, we didn't! No doubt due to our disdain for the Russians!

Popeye The Sailor!

I was in that Hot Wheels Collector Club with ya! I still have my Boss Hoss too! Three of my original survivors. The VWs were my race team. Short and heavy, they dropped like rocks down the track!

If you want to practice with something square, start out with a sedan. This is the AMT '34 Ford 2 door sedan. I started this just for the experience, then built a model around it. Here's what I took out marked with cross hatch... Here's the result. I took the top down a few scale inches. It's not radical and most folks don't even notice it from stock. (Bill would!) And the finished product.. and that got me thinking what to try with the spare body... This time I took out a heck of a lot more plastic, but below the belt line instead of between the two top lines. Three pieces... Notice the ragged edges. I actually cut with a small battery power drill. I drill holes all the way around, then score it on the inside. It comes apart like tearing postage stamps! I clean it up a bit, but I find the rough edges, glued together with gap filling CA accepts putty well and helps me hide the line. Completed section came out well. The beauty of this is it's all straight lines. On the first one the doors even lined up. On this one I had to reposition the back area of the doors to match. And since I was feeling good, I opened up the top as well. This one is still sitting in my project pile waiting for some day. Now on to the hard part. Once you have sectioned a body, you now have to section or fit all the other components. That can mean a custom chassis, making your own interior or sectioning one the same amount you did the body. You have changed the position of everything!

Everything you see were kit options offered sometime over the life of this kit. Note that it's been reissued over and over since the early 1960s. The green car is the earliest set of custom parts. I found this car in the bottom of a dealer's scrap box at a show. It had no roof or suspension. But it was so cool that i restored it. I also bought the blue car, and cleaned it up. It was missing the hood and I knew I wasn't going to match the paint, so I two toned it with the Tamiya Coral Blue. The tail lights on this one are the Edsel wagon ones that came in the kit too.

Very nice, love the color! I used those flares on my Datsun pickup. It's a nice little kit to build.

hold the pickles...

Here's some inspiration for you. My trio of '57s! I built the pink one fairly stock about 30 years ago. The other two are restorations of old builds.

Here's a Mustang project that I need to finish one day! It has the more detailed '67 Mustang chassis under it. I also have all the parts in one box to build my friend Mark's '66 from back in the day. His was a plain white car with a six and three speed on the floor, power nothing! But we loved that car! I have a resin six all built and wired for another project that I didn't use.

This past summer I saw a tattered one of these on a trailer being towed by a pickup truck. No doubt on it's way to being restored! That's when I realized I hadn't seen one in a while.