espo

While they are all Corvettes each is unique unto them selves. Each and everyone of them are outstanding builds, I can not choose.

By my memory The Nova SS was the first issue and the Novacaine was issued sometime later. The parts content was the same but the box art and decals were different. I really don't recall just when the Ventura II came into the picture since I picked mine up after it had been on the shelf for a while. Life was kind of getting in the way of modeling at the time.

Now I'm getting "The Hardly Waits" for this one.

I like what you're thinking on the wheels and tires. Looking at the picture of the model it looks as if the front inner fenders have a slight "tubing" for clearance. Would you have the room you need with your wheels if you increased the size of the Tub or would it just look wrong ?

Just got back from "town" and the Chevelle isn't on the self at the hobby shop I go to. Since I'm not going to start it until I finish the two on the bench now anyway I can wait.

I had to show the pictures of your basement to my wife in hopes that she will stop giving me grief about my stash. I'm maybe two steps behind you in this problem and have been trying to selloff some models each year at a local show and swap meet. I have also made a large scale sale to a reseller but you just don't even break even that way. I might try your luck on E Bay since I see some people paying stupid money for stuff on there.

I'm wondering if you have a problem getting thru traffic on the freeway? Back in 2010 We ordered a Charger RT in a dark grey color. The first thing I noticed was on the freeway when I would start to overtake a group of cars they would almost scatter to get out of the way. Then I realized the KHP were driving grey or white and black Dodge Chargers. Since they are now driving the new or newer body style this doesn't seem to happen very often, but every now and then it still works if I come up on the slowly. I'll bet you can clear a lane on the freeway real quick with your rig.

We had snow for Thanksgiving and sunny '50's now. There will be a glass or two consumed on the outdoor patio this afternoon. Sorry that should be under "what pleased you today".

I used to be 6' 3'' but at this lte date in life I'm 6' 2'' if I stand real straight. I'm thinking that some lifts in my shoes might work. I would have to lose some weight for sure. The good news is I have the ugly part down pretty well.

Good. I was afraid they would do like AMT did on the El Camino.

If you want the image that is on the "water color paper" you might consider scanning the image in your computer, then print it on clear decal sheets to then apply to your model.

Check the After Market Directory in this part of the Forum. I have gotten some excellent parts from Harts Parts and I think he has a lot of Mopar stuff.

Going to town today to see if anyone has the new Chevelle. The only thing I didn't like about the 1:1 '68's compared to the later models was the dash board. I was never a fan of vinyl roofs on any vehicle and especially something with the roof shaped like this. The early vinyl roofs on the mainstay vehicles was to make everyone think you could afford a convertible. Now look at the shape of this roof and figure out just how that would fold into the rear deck. Even a tutone treatment brakes up the flow of the body lines. Just my opinion I know there are many that feel differently on this. That's why we get to build them the way we want them.

Outstanding array of builds. Nice to see the NASCAR builds so well represented.

Beautiful paint job and excellent detailing through out. I like the period Cragers.

If I get a vote in this I would keep the little red barn find just the way it is forever. You can always build additional models of what it started as and what it was restored too, but the red car is special and should be kept as is.

I have built several thru the years and the only real big thing that bothered me was the front fenders. I realize AMT did this for a couple of reasons. This kit is from the old 3 in 1 days and they just thru everything in the box. This could also be built as an early Funny Car, not as we know them today but much like they were then. Having owned a new '72 Nova SS I have always thought that the part of the fender between the wheel opening and the edge where it meets the grill is to narrow. This may have been done for the Funny Car option. About a year after this kit was first released AMT offered the Pontiac version that was the same kit but with the Pontiac front Fenders, Hood, Grill and bumpers. This had to save them some development expenses to bring the Pontiac kit to market. You mentioned the engine issue. I just don't remember if they had a complete engine block for the Big Block option on this or not. As I recall, and I may very well be wrong, they just had different Heads and Manifolds to make the Big Block and that may be the reason behind the different engine size. It is also common to find engine size differences between kits with the same engine by the same model company. All that aside I think you will enjoy this kit and it will build to a great display Nova.

I really like what all you did with the chassis. As for the rear tires, which I like, there was a time when many 1:1 T Buckets were running Indy or Formula 1 tires on the back. Now this chin thing, OUCH !!!. You can makeup all kinds of war stories on that.

When I have had problems with decals my go to product has been Solvaset. This is not that it is any better than any other product, it's just that is what I first used and the bottle I have was purchased over 20 years ago and it still works perfect for my needs. I don't use it on every decal, but when you have a door seem or compound body curve it is a must. Think of the Z-28 style stripes on a Cowl Induction Camaro Hood. I suggest experimentation with an old unwanted decal on a spoon where the handle blends into the spoon portion. This will give you an idea of how the solution, no matter who you use, will react. One note to watch for is how the decal reacts. The way these products work is that the decal film will start to lay down and lose its shape and it will become very possible to tear the decal. Some of the tools that I use to help are a very soft fine paint brush and a flat tooth pick. You can use the wetted paint brush to get under the decal to move it around. The tooth pick being flat and not sharp minimizes the possibility of tearing the decal. One other tip that has worked for me when doing say a body graphic that crosses a door seem. I wait until the decal has setup but not 100 % dry yet, I'll then lightly cut the decal at the door seem and just the smallest drop of solution in the area and this lits the decal settle into the seem and will not leave the air bubble look when it dries.

I have been building for a few years and we used to just accept the minimum chassis detailing since that was all we had. I remember well using my then new X-Acto knife to outline different features of the chassis and hand paint the exhaust and suspension. After a few years AMT started offering open hoods with little metal clips to hold them shut and what now seems ridiculous looking "engines". The point is you made do with what you had to work with and I for one was thankful for what we got. As more modelers started building cars the model companies started to put more effort into details beyond the body. I believe this had to also increase their production costs but I don't recall being put off by any price increases. Now we are at a point where the chassis and interior is almost the focal point in a build. Now when we want to build one of the reissues of a past subject and we get to the chassis why are we so disappointed ? You know that's what it is going to be. Why not use our new found tools and abilities and see just what we can do with what we have in the box. Think of it as a challenge. I have wimped out more than once and gutted a new model for the chassis for one of these kits, but maybe the next time I'll just look at the chassis and see just what I can do with it. My feeling is if you like the basic subject as a modeler the kit gives you the basics and it is up to me to make something of it.

I like the Turbo Inline 6 idea, very creative.

I wonder what the life expectancy of this soldier would be in an actual battle ?

Both are beautifully well built models. I like the one of your fathers and was wondering about the source of the loom for the spark plug wires?

As mentioned by TarheelRick, I would do any sanding as far away from your building space as possible. Resin dust from sanding can be a real problem when it gets on the styrene. I always use Duplicolor automotive primer on the resin parts. Most model paint including the primers just don't stick as well as the automotive primers. After the resin is sealed with a good covering of primer then you can go about your painting as usual.

Great save. Shows how much building styles have changed thru the years.