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These are both outstanding builds and show the differences between Revell and AMT. What I have always wondered and never got around to doing was to use the AMT Sedan fenders from the kit that offered the option of building a '39 or a '40 sedan and build a '39 Deluxe coupe out of the AMT '40 Deluxe Coupe kit.

I would follow rsxse240's suggestion of using chrome foil. I would add a suggestion that I use if you're not already doing this. The moldings are very faint and hard to see where to cut the foil if you just lay it down on the body. What I have done is to out line the moldings with an Exact O knife before applying the foil. I will then burnish the foil lightly, this will give me a distinct cut line to follow. I use this method on all chrome trim and usually start out lining the trim when it is even bare plastic before even before the first coat of primer since every coat of paint seems to make this type of fine detail harder to see.

Your silver radiator color question depends on what you are trying to represent as to what the radiator is made of. The OEM was a brass affair that was painted a semi gloss black from the factory as was the expansion tank mounted to the thermostat housing. Since you're building a custom they can be what ever you want them to be. A silver radiator would look like an updated Aluminum radiator. I would suggest making the expansion tank more chrome like in appearance since this was and is a common detail on 1:1 customs.

I still marvel at your Black Paint Jobs. I enjoy the way you always strive for accuracy in your builds. Few even realize that the Standard only had the one tail light or that the headlight rings were painted. This is a great addition to your Ford collection.

I noticed how you cut the inner fenders. Was this for the revamped suspension or did you channel the body on the frame to get it lower ? I like the rear 4-Link suspension.

Welcome Flat32, we are of the same general vintage. I have seen builds such as your picture posted here and no one seemed to mind. If one of the monitors feels differently they may move it. As for a protective work surface there are many options. Many builders have different ideas about what works best for them. I can only offer what I have done as a suggestion and by looking at what information others will offer then see what it is you want to use. For me Bed Bath and Beyond offers a lot of good storage and work surfaces for modeling. I have used several of their expandable spice racks for small paint bottles. A self healing cutting board that has a small lip around the outer edge designed to catch fluids works well for a work surface. I have one of their tooth brush holders for my paint brushes and the matching water glass for cleaning the brushes when needed. They will sometimes have an unusual desk lamp on close out that will give you additional light in your work area. I also use a magnifying adjustable light when doing detail work since at this point in life I just don't have the sight I once had. This light and some other neat tools found in the jewelry department are from Jo Ann's Fabrics. These are fairly inexpensive tools to get started. I still find it very interesting all of the different items that members will post information about that have a use in our hobby.

I like the El Camino idea. Now "Wildfire" just got a little wilder.

I have to agree with unclescott58 going with paint designed for what your are doing id best. I know many prefer automotive paints and general purpose hardware store paint and it seems to fulfil their needs, but I still feel that a paint design specifically for your needs will give you a better out come with very little additional cost. As for your dehumidifier, if your humidity is much over 40 % in your basement you need to consider the effects on anything stored there including your models. In some cases high humidity can contribute to the growth of dangers mold. This is an interesting time of year in that we need to dehumidify our basements and turn on the humidifier on our furnaces for the above ground portion of our homes.

Trying to drive a Vespa at 70mph there would have to be someone on the back holding a gun to my head.

I was at the local Costco and they are putting out their Christmas goodies. They have some 1/16th Die Cast out as they do every year. The usual Camaro and Mustang and a few Exotics.

I need to find a different Goodwill store. All they have around here is old baby clothes and broken furniture from the '60s.

Neat looking build. I like the narrow cheater slicks on the back. Your second set of pictures you put up the ones of the model have the proportions corrected from the first set.

As others have mentioned the under hood detailing is exceptional. You used the correct colors to show the different components and the addition of the PCV hose and the vacuum hose for the brake booster. I like how you used the parts from so many different kits to get this one correct. Looks real enough that you are either going to have to store it for the winter or get some snow tires for it.

The Chrome Revers wheels and the Lake Pipes would kind of go together depending on the era your trying to represent. I like the chrome wheels you have selected and have used this same wheel set and tires on a couple of builds. The only thing that I didn't like was the lack of detail in and around the lug nut area of the wheel. The area is flat and that's just not how they are on a real wheel. Have you considered either the chrome spiders to cover the lug nut area or even a small hub cap ? This kit also has some of the best looking '60 Ford small hub caps I have seen for a long time. Back in the day when we could only afford a couple of cans of Krylon to dress up our wheels we would use the small hub cap or a baby moon cap to cover the lug nuts. The '60 Ford hub cap looked the best. Later when I could afford chrome reverse rims I would still use the '60 Ford cap since it was the best looking to me. Are you going to try a paint treatment like the blue/white show car in the photo ??

Beautiful looking interior. I like how you redid the instrument panel on the dash.

I like your tape idea. being some what Ham Fisted anyway this might save me some time on my hands and knees with a flash light cussing for what seems like hours.

You can tell by his approach he is not rattled at all and knows what he's doing. Difficult to set down a small craft that gently with the wheels down, notice how he killed the engines right away to save them and the props. Then he walks away like that's the way he always come in.

If the four wheel trailer is what your after it looks as if you could make a copy of the part #6 in the above instruction sheet and modify a single axel trailer just as they did. Another source for the single axel trailer if you can find on of the old AMT '76 Chevrolet Caprice kits. I have two in my stash, #1 is #30031-100 Pro Sop Caprice. and #2 is #38454 AMT Classic. Both have the same trailer included.

Shows a lot of effort went into this build. Very clean looking.

Beautiful build. Everything looks clean and sharp. I wouldn't worry about the twisted bed issue since that was somewhat common of the 1:1 Ford trucks of the time and it doesn't really show in the pictures anyway. I followed your build on this and all your efforts really paid off in its appearance.

I guess building models is somewhat like riding a bike. Once you've done it you retain the ability to do it again, and here you are slicing up plastic just like the old days. Glad you rejoined the party.

You have the body parts blended so well it really makes you wonder why Mercury didn't do that way back when they could have.

These are a very sleek looking cars and this is a great kit. You mentioned Black as a color consideration. When I was in high school one of my friends older brother bought a 1 year old '60 Ford Starliner in black. The interior was Yellow with black and yellow cloth inserts, very striking. The area that runs just above the side windows and surrounded in chrome with the "Stars" in the middle was a yellow/gold color. If I ever get to this kit in my stash that is the way I'm going to build it. That car really stood out where ever he went. Just a thought on the color but which ever way you go think about using this area as a place for an accent color on your color selection.

On your rack and pinion steering issue you might check with HL on their closeout model section. I picked up a late model Mustang kit as a donor for parts on a future project also with a '57 Ford. This would give you a modern front suspension to work with among other parts.

I used to work with people who were always patting themselves on the back and bragging to our boss and anyone else who happened to be in ear shot about how special they were at multitasking when in fact they didn't do either job very well. I know because I was always cleaning up the mess they were making. The reality is that while you can sometimes do two or more things at one time none of them get done 100 % and I don't care who you think you are. The best thing to do is focus on the main problem and devote all your energy to make that right and then move on to the next. In the end everything gets done and done correctly and most often sooner than bouncing around crowing about how efficient you think you are.