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#1 I would contact Revell about that frame. You may get it close but only if you're lucky. Revell is very good about replacing items in their kits that are that bad. They have helped myself and others in the past. I like the big Hemi idea. I built a similar truck/midget combo a few years ago using the Arden engine. They match up perfectly together.

Interior looks great. What did you use for the carpeting ??

That is a very old kit from long ago, but the body seems to have the proper proportions. I have seen where others on the Forum have built this kit using the chassis and engine from the AMT '60 Ford Starliner kit. Just a thought if you should want to go into greater detail. Your scribe lines look good. Primer can fill those up pretty fast sometimes.

I believe that the fittings for the water hoses for the heater were located on the Water Pump on the passenger side and the rear of the Intake Manifold. The rear hose would mount to a small upright fitting and the "hose" portion would be easily routed away from the Distributer. I would run the front hose too the passenger side inner fender and then back to the firewall. Of course this all depends on the year model of the engine. The very early Cadillac and some other GM products like the Pontiacs had their heater cores mounted on the drivers side. I don't know what year model the engine in the kit represents but it sounds as if it may be say a early '50's engine. Since it is a custom I would use the later model configuration for convenience if nothing else.

I think the '55 Nomad is supposed to be released soon.

Very nice ageing. I remember those window coolers when that was all you could get. Just fill it with crushed ice and go.

Thank you for sharing. Some very unique cars with interesting histories.

Another great MoPar!!

Beautiful looking build. That looks like a showroom fresh '68 Road Runner. Glad to see you are recovering.

This looks great also. I just got done looking at your Duster and they both are outstanding.

Your build looks dead on. Turned out great. I have used a couple of Resin bodies and experienced the same paint issues you described. There are many here with far more experience and I'm sure they could offer many tips on painting Resin parts. What has worked for me is after the normal clean up is to use automotive type self etching primer so the final coats of paint have something to hang on to. Another thing to think about is if you are doing any sanding at all this should be done away from the other parts and then cleaned and primed before you start working with the plastic portion . It is possible to contaminate the plastic if you have any of the sanding dust on your hands from the Resin.

Your stained real wood looks great. More realistic than decals or trying to paint wood. Are you going to raise the rear bed wood section to be level with the forward floor section or just have it stepped ?? I like the center blue spoon, but it depends on how you are envisioning the car. The 389 - 400 -421 - 455 engines all look alike. The differences are internal with different bores and strokes.

The Moon Gas Pedal has appeared and disappeared in several reissues thru the years. If you have any older kits that are offered with a Drag Racing option that would be a great place to look.

Great looking wagon. I like the pin striping decals.

Beautiful clean looking build.

The engine from the '56 AMT kit will be fine. Ford offered the 239 cu in Overhead Valve engine first in 1954. In 1955 Ford changed the bore and stroke around to offer a 272 cu in and a 292 cu in engine based on the original 239 engine. For 1956 they had the same offerings and late in the model year they offered a 312 cu in version. All three displacements were offered in 1957 and in 1958 with the new FE engines starting at 331 cu in they dropped the earlier Y Block engines except for the 292 cu in that was kept as the base V-8. From the outside the Ford Y Blocks all looked alike. A 6 volt battery can be found in many of the Revell offerings of '30's and 40's Fords.

MCW might be the best bet on accuracy. A little more expensive but it will be right. Or see if anyone carries Duplicolor paints.

I would look at the local hardware store for brass or aluminum stock. This will give you the strength and yet be thin enough to look in scale.

Tamiya #TS-43 Racing Green is a non metallic green that looks every bit the part of BRG. They also have #TS-9 that is listed as British Green and is just a shade darker than TS-43.

Very impressive so far. Did the exhaust headers on your build come with this kit ?? I'm looking for something like that for a different Hemi build.

I have been enjoying following your build. I had a Monte Carlo SS that I ordered new in '86. It was white with the dark red cloth interior. When I built a model of that car I used Model Master #2904 Klin Red for the interior. It is a gloss finish but with a light dusting of flat clear at arms length the finish looked just like cloth. Just a thought for the future, but the interior dye spray might be even closer.

The paint finish is awesome. Great painting detail work on the firewall and head lights.

Always thought these were interesting cars. This model really looks like a great build. At this point someone could almost make a Dune Buggy out of the platform.

Great idea for the transmission tunnel. I was going to suggest trying a partial picnic spoon for a firewall behind the dash.

Beautiful paint job. Are you going for a Stock build or something with some modifications ??