Fat Brian

There's another Pantera tooling out there that seems to have gotten around a bit. I've seen it in Nichimo, Imai, and Airfix boxes. It has the race fender flares and a squarish front air dam and is an old motorized kit too.

The tanks in the Ford Louisville truck are smaller than true semi tanks and might work for you.

I've got the Flintstone part, it's not egregiously thick. I'll probably just stick a few door panel details to the inside and call it good.

I don't buy anything without either intending to build it or to use it as a donor to build something. For a long time I did try to protect the value of what I had though, so I didn't mix parts or anything until I was ready to build whatever it was. Recently though, I've been running short on space so I've been combining all the parts of a project into a "kit" of sorts so I can store or dispose of the unwanted parts.

I've got the interior almost finished and most of the chassis parts are painted and ready to go once the exhaust is on. There's a bit of a peek at the body color too.

Here's a build I did of the Monogram 66 Mustang kit with the Cobra 427 in it. The 427 has the Cobra road race oil pan so you might have to cut it off and find a replacement. My engine has the block and oil pan from the Monogram 69 Talladega kit with the Cobra heads, valve covers and intake. I switch the C6 from the Talladega for a manual transmission. Fitting any exhaust manifolds was a huge problem. I had to sand the inside face of the shock towers until they were literally paper thin and run the manifolds from the AMT 66 Galaxie. It's a cool build though and impressive once it's in there.

Yeah, we've tossed around what might have happened to these kits before. The Miller and GTP cars where never altered so if they still exist they might have been in the US based tooling that ended up with Atlantis. The 83-87 body on the Revell kit was updated to the 88-93 body and then to to the blue Camaro body. So if that kit still exists it will be as the Camaro. If we can determine where the last reissue of that car we made we can make an educated guess about where the tooling might be.

Check out this thread by Bill Geary, he seems to have found and 3d printed a body that looks superior to the Revell offering. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/179346-3d-printed-1967-dodge-coronet-440/

Oh, 100% we are our own worst enemy most of the time in this regard. I'm highly guilty of it.

There's also whether whatever inaccuracy spoils the look of the vehicle. I see the Duster window but it doesn't significantly alter the overall look of the car for me. On the other hand, now that I've seen the issue with the 68/69 Roadrunner/GTX rear fenders I can't unsee it and haven't built any of those kits until I commit to fixing it.

It may be worth it to you to check out the new Demon kit and see if the rear window shape is any better. If so you could try to swap them over.

Yeah, unfortunately superchargers are a part where the model companies took a lot of liberties with their shape. Modern kits are better but I can't think of many with full race engines though.

The 56 Thunderbird has one, it's okay but not great.

Yes, it certainly does. I had heard his products had gotten better but at least this piece is still junk.

Wow, they took an already ugly car and made it even uglier.

To add to Steve's comment, the Revell 68 Firebird is coming back with its single 4 barrel intake.

I bought a pack of popsicle sticks and sand one into whatever shape I need. I typically have one around sanded into a flat chisel point too.

Yep, I bought the same hood from the same ebay seller and it's hot garbage.

I got the car lowered a good bit and found some wheels that actually fit, there was no way to get the 20s on without more mods than fit the theme.

I didn't think there was any way we'd build this kit the same but we're certainly on the same wavelength.

Chevy splits the extra length and adds about a foor on the cab end of the bed and six inches on the tailgate end. This makes converting a Chevy bed a lot more work. When I made a long bed for the AMT Fall Guy truck I used the 72 bed as a reference because the beds interchange on the real trucks. If you want a 72 short bed just reverse the process and cut it down to match the Fall Guy bed. Honestly, at this point I'd rather wait on the Moebius list that's coming in '25. Here are some comparative pics of Chevy beds.

I was able to take some measurements of the available 90s Ford beds this morning. Making a 1/24 short bed would be pretty easy since Ford adds all the additional length at the cab end of the bed. I measured the AMT long and short beds and the Monogram long bed and was able to determine that if you shorten the 1/24 long bed 17mm to a length of 91mm it will make a correct short bed. Here is a pic of the AMT long and short beds together.

The AMT 70s Ford truck is really difficult because the rear wheel wells are moved back from the normal pickup location because the kit is a Camper Special model. Even if you cut the right amount off the front of the bed the rear wheels will be too far back. The rear wheel arches are also the wrong shape for a standard pickup bed. To make a good short bed or even a correct standard long bed you need to rob the rear wheel arches from the Bronco kit.

I build a Mustang every year, it's a little extra challenge I give myself that I enjoy. This is my sixth year doing it.

There's no way to know for sure but it's been a while since it was out and most common kits are on an 8 to 12 year reissue schedule so it should eventually rotate back into production. The surest way to get it to come back out is to go to ebay and greatly over pay for one. That seems to get them to dust off a tooling.