Fat Brian

I'm aware the LSA isn't a Northstar, there are so few Cadillac things around it seemed worth mentioning. Here's a pic of the Series 1 engine parts. It looks like a good parts kit for modern suspension stuff too.

It's not a Northstar but Jay's Resin Wheels has just started listing engines on his eBay store. This says it's a Cadillac LSA. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325564471769?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VFPC8PxcSpO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yeah, I can't stand the color difference between paint and the decal so I'm planning on masking the entire center portion and cutting just the pinstripe from the decal sheet. As long as there are measurements for how to mask that's what I'll use.

It's a shame we're not getting a full set of Mach 1 stripes. I need a silver set for a build I'm planning.

Spray them with Mr Super Clear matte, it's in a tall gray can. Then paint them with Vallejo yellow. You can brush or airbrush it. Don't flex them too much or the paint will peel off but this will safely cover them.

I'm hoping this will lead to some modern square body truck kits.

Ouch, my wallet!

For anyone who was wondering, the AMT rear window louvres do fit the Revell kit.

Wow, that's a big deal if it's true.

Try Fireball, Joseph has several types of Olds rally wheels.

I think you've gotten a lot of solid modeling advice. One thing I'll add is how to increase your car knowledge. There are tons of great youtube channels that can help you learn about the components of a car. Vice Grip Garage, DD Speed Shop, Junkyard Digs, Pole Barn Garage, Stay Tuned are some of my favorites. Just find someone you enjoy watching who works on the kind of stuff you like.

It's probably Tamiya smoke clear. Try 91% alcohol on it, that should do it with the least risk of damaging the glass.

This would go a long way toward making this kit better.

Thank you, I like your GTX as well, that is a sharp ride.

Yeah, the gold stripes on the green are so classy looking. The white is kind of jarring. I also went with a slightly darker top color to stay with the understated looks. I can't wait to get it in the sun and let the paint do its thing.

I'm calling her done for this year. This is one of the stockest things I've ever built, especially considering the amount of kitbasing it took. This is the Hertz kit with body from the 64 convertible. The only change I made to the driveline was swapping in a T5 five speed for high speed driving. I also added a roll bar and a center console with a short shifter for the five speed. The wheels are from the 69 Talladega kit with Revell tires in the front and AMT tires in the rear. I also widened the rear wheels and added the optional through the valance exhaust. I thing the rear bumper is from the AMT 66 GT kit that just came back out. It worked out well because the bumper drop down pieces are closer together so I could run them with the exhaust.

Yes, you need to use acrylic paints or Future on tires. The plasticizers in the tire compound won't allow enamels to ever dry on tires. I used Tamiya on these, one coat under the tire decals to give them a good surface to adhere to and one on top to even out the shine.

For painting on the body I use water based Tamiya paint so I can clean it quickly with a damp q-tip. For painting on the clear parts I mask the straightest sections one or two at a time and use Mr Color flat black. It cleans up with alcohol so it won't hurt the clear parts. Once I've masked as much as I reasonably can I free hand the rest. The trim on this car was an absolute nightmare buy it turned out better than I expected.

The terrible headlights and surrounding area of the front end.

I'm looking for options to build a 64 Polara 440 or 500. My first thought was to swap the roof from the Lindberg Belvedere to the 330 body but after taking some measurements it won't fit correctly. Has anyone used modern kit guts on the Johan body? Do the Lindberg grille and bumpers fit the Johan body? Does the Lindberg Belvedere glass fit the Johan body? I don't want to pay collector prices for a Johan kit just for most of to go unused.

Does he have anything to fix the front end?

Honestly, I've completely switched to Mr Color, Tamiya, and Vallejo brush paints. They're just so much better it's worth the expense.

That's the thing, the average run of a kit today is 5k pieces. You might see 10k on a new tooling that's expected to really move. The only way they're going back to the well on the Mustang kit is if they decide to do a GT one day. Personally, I think that's highly unlikely because it under cuts kits they've already got, the 1/24 93 Cobra R and 90 convertible kits.

The 69 Charger, 57 Fairlane, 69 Mustang, and 70 Torino have all had revisions to their bodies or parts after release. Only the Charger was as much work as what the Mustang would need. Once the windows are in the Mustang it doesn't bother me as much. I also sanded the edge of the roof a bit thinner and it helps some.

If you want to go really low there's the "suicide perch" where you move the spring perch in front of the radiator. This also lengthens the wheel base.