Fat Brian

I agree with Bill about the rear end. Here is a 3d printed version pretty close to what looks to be on the van. http://shpws.me/QzSJ

The MPC Fire Truck would probably be the best starting point for a replica project.

In my experience Super Clean is the mildest stripper to start with for plastic bodies. If you run into something it won't touch my next step is 91% isopropyl alcohol. After that you start getting into stuff that does degrade the plastic like brake fluid.

Yeah, it seems like they just re-run the last issue of the kit even down to old box art. I guess they save money that way.

I believe it was established that Round2 was doing special runs for Ollies a year or two ago so it wouldn't surprise me if Revell wanted in on the action too.

The recent issues of the AMT 49 Ford have had wide white walls and a pair of white wall cheater slicks. I used them on this build.

I have a new Bandit molded in black and yes, the black plastic seems more brittle than the standard white but mine isn't warped like that.

There were a handful of crossflow heads for the 300 made for a joint UPS/Ford project that fell through. They are highly sought after by 300 guys. There's is also a way to cut down LS heads to fit the 300.

Don't get me wrong, I love a tool that does a good job, especially when it's a good value too. The MCG photoetch saws are some of the best money I've ever spent on a modeling tool.

Wow, you're going for the solo record.

No problem, I love no buck tools.

I used the core wire from the largest wound string so it's super hard. It sticks out about 3mm, far enough to go through a body.

Someone may be willing to part with a set of the stock tires if you post in the Wanted section.

I agree on the dental scraper, I even took a file to the end of mine and thinned it a bit closer to a panel line. I also made a scriber from a wooden dowel that I drilled a piece of guitar string into.

I did, it's amazing the engine runs properly at that angle.

I saw that, it looks like he has a dry sump oil system and all the accessories are shaft driven.

You're very correct, car modelers routinely get the brown end of the stick by kit companies putting out ancient tools at new kit costs. No other segment of the hobby tolerates that level of disrespect but nostalgia is a heck of a drug.

I think the 30 is ready for the California drags. I had originally planned for more decals but I can't find anything I really like. I started with the new Revell 30 five window. First, I chopped it and additional three inches. Then I used the channeled interior but I wanted it to be nice instead of bare framework. I cut the frames from the interior side panels and then trimmed the highboy side panels to fit and made a panel to fill across the rear from the seat. The rollbar and seats are from the AMT 25 model T. I used the quick-change rear end from Mapleleaf model works and made a suicide front end from kit pieces and some scrap. The wheels and tires are from an old Orange Crate kit. The engine is from various versions of the Revell 57 Fairlane kits, the dual 4 barrel intake from drag car and the valve covers from the gasser and the supercharger from the Del Rio wagon. I made custom tubing for the dual carbs and offset the scoop to the passenger side. I used the small block Chevy headers so I could run a full exhaust since it's a California car. I also changed the steering box to exit out the side of the body and tied it to the front with a guitar string. The door hinges were removed and the handles moved forward to make suicide doors as well. These hot rods are incredibly fun to build and fairly quick too. Once I get some other builds done I might do a few more.

How blue are you talking? I think the most recent Gremlin kit has a set of light blue windows.

My wife's TDI Beetle is the most fun car I've ever owned. Get that thing on a twisty mountain road and lean into the turbo and hang on.

Jesus Scott, I only had the pics posted for 4 hours. That looks great, very well done.

Yeah, I think that is the best way, like a 3.5mm hole through it so you can offset it for the front and have whatever width you need. The flange with the bolts is 14" in diameter or close enough to it.

I'm glad you posted this, I was wondering if this was an option.

Is it one of the Timken clamshell axles? I've seen something close in 1/35 scale but I would love to have them in 1/25.

Smooth face big and little Halibrands to fit the tires in the Revell 29/30 kits. And maybe some pie crust cheater slicks for them.