Fat Brian

That's what I'm doing now, seeing how much of each kit is left. I'm going to put them in gallon freezer bags and write anything missing on the bag.

I've got quite a few leftover bodies from chassis donor kits and I'm thinking about selling them for slot cars. Do slot cars guys want the interiors too? I don't have all of them since that was part of the chassis swap but if I do have the interior would they even want or need it?

Revell coming for my wallet this year.

I'm glad I didn't pay ebay prices for a Monogram GTO now. The 39 Chevy might have the supercharger parts to go on the 66 Chevelle too, the engines in those kits are pretty similar.

We had some pretty horrible cars while we were young and broke but probably the worst was a 91 Olds Cutlass with a Quad4 engine. The valvetrain noise was incredible, like a hundred squirrels in tap shoes on a tin roof. You had turn it off in the drive thru to be able to hold a conversation.

I thought about that too, or soft aluminum jewelry wire. I still need to find someone to make the decals so I haven't gotten serious about figuring out the headers yet.

Huh, that would a be a unique subject...

It's a Hyundai Tiburon with aftermarket Lambo door hinges and somekind of Star Wars paint job.

There will be a pebbly texture to areas that need more clear. Once everything has a nice smoothe surface again you're done. Work in light coats because it's easy to put too much on and get a run since it is a little more difficult to gage the depth of the layer since it's clear.

I need the exact same thing for a build I'm planning. My plan so far is to build a jig out of wood that will give me consistent bends. I was planning on using thin stainless steel tubing with a brass rod inserted where the bend is to keep it from collapsing but Molotow looks good enough that I might stick with plastic for ease of assembly.

First, test a scrap piece of decal film with the clear you want to use. I had a body ruined when I tried to clear over decals and the clear beaded up on the decals like water on a freshly waxed car. Second, once you know you're decals and clear play nice together clear everything. Some clear coats, specifically Testors but others as well, can color shift a bit over time. If you only clear some parts there's a possibility that in a year or two the cleared and not cleared parts will be a slightly different color.

She was local to me first a while and this was the first thing I heard her do on local radio.

The Celica Supra is nice, I've got the Tamiya kit but this one will have an engine without a ton if extra work. I also wonder which sleeper is in the 359 kit? It would be cool if they found the old mail in sleeper.

The first IMSA Mustang and the GTP kit should be fine, but yeah, I bet this early body doesn't exist anymore for the SCCA car. These are ones I don't think changed.

I built this one for my Cannonball car last year, it built into a good looking model.

Yeah, I'm wondering about the status of the early 80s IMSA Mustang and Mustang GTO kits. Those were never run but a few times so they were likely still stateside if they still exist at all.

They released it as a street truck a few years ago.

I know that the 2014 kit is incredibly simplified from the 2006 to 2009 kits. The chassis in particular lost its separate axles and suspension in favor of old style metal axles. This might mean the parts will interchange with the snap kit. I don't personally have one to compare though.

Yeah, Round2 pretty openly trades on nostalgia, but a big part of that nostalgia is remembering buying these same kits for a buck or so. Constantly raising their prices has to affect sales at some point. I also subscribe to some modeling subs on Reddit where the average age is much lower than here. Newer builders constantly post about feeling ripped off by AMT and MPC kits. They expect modern quality for kits that cost the same as brand new tooling and haven't been in the hobby long enough to know what the history of a kit might be. Round2 is building a bad reputation among folks who will be the future of the hobby.

There's a seller on ebay that does two similar style wheels that are 3d printed. I'm not going to lie, there aren't the highest quality printed wheels I've gotten. But, they seem to be workable and will probably look the part with some cleanup and a few coats of paint. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-21-20-Inch-American-Racing-Salt-Flats-model-car-wheels-1-24-1-25-scale-/324916764825?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-Halibrand-Dragmaster-style-model-car-wheels-1-24-1-25-scale-21-20-Inch-/224629726127?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

In North Carolina you can only tint a 5" strip at the top of the windshield unless you have a doctor's prescription. The front windows can be up to 35% and rest can be as dark as you want. This is one of things that every state does differently.

I've noticed the purple tint too so I stay away from Sharpies except for tiny touch ups, I'll try another brand.

Yeah, 53 to mid 70s beds are the same. At some point they changed the top rails from being angled to flat for the later 70s beds.

I've stored some kits in shed on the shady side of my house for a few years, I'm in NC so similar weather. The plastic and boxes are fine as long as you can keep them dry and keep the pill bugs out. I would take the tires and decals out and put them in a zip lock bag with the instructions and keep that in the house. Decals hate extreme temps and humidity and the tires on the kits I've kept outside have hardened and gotten weird. Throwing those in a baggie with the instructions will help you find the right tires when you're ready to build a stored kit.

The parts weren't originally in the USA-1 kit but they've been in it since the late 2000s or so. I imagine they're on the tree with the axles, springs, wheel backs and such and have just been thrown in as "extras".