slusher Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Great looking interior Jim, i would like to see how you detail your dashes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Jim - it looks like it's just a scaling issue. Unless the block and heads magically grow when it's bored and stroked. Lol Tim Very true Tim, so the Roadent engine will probably get set aside for another project. I was leaning toward going with the kit supplied 327 engine for Pop's Toy (the SS) anyways so that frees up the Stroker for the wagon. The only issue with the 383 stroker is the motor mounts on the frame don't meet it, so I'll have to modify them so it fits correctly. But no big deal to do that. Great looking interior Jim, i would like to see how you detail your dashes.. Thanks Carl. Don't forget this is a pair of builds. I still have another interior to do for the SS so stay tuned. When I get to the other Dash I will try to take more in progress pics of it, It should help those wanting to see how I do them. It really isn't that hard, just a lot of planning out and some aftermarket stuff and lots of PATIENCE and TIME lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 (edited) I finished up the interior on Mom's Toy this morning. Removed the clutch pedal from the dash and added a photo etched piece for the brake pedal. I made the panel that sits behind the rear seat to represent the fold panel that lays down when the rear seat folds down I cleaned up the flash on the steering wheel, drilled some holes on the column for the turn signal and shift levers (since this is gonna have a automatic trans I needed a column shift lever). Then painted the steering wheel and column and added BMF to the horn ring and trim. I then made the turn signal and shift levers out of bent straight pins and mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and applied it to the ends of the pins and painted that gloss black once the epoxy dried. This was to represent the knobs on the ends of the shift and turn signal levers. The center horn area of the wheel got a black wash of flat black to hide the SS emblem in the middle of it. Once I had all that done, the steering wheel assembly was glued to the dash and the dash was finally glued into place with a few drops of CA glue on each side. That pretty much wrapped up the interior assembly for Mom's Toy (the wagon), I may added some little goodies to it at some point before it goes in the body. But for now, it's time to move on to other parts of the build. Including work on the interior for Pop's Toy (the SS ). More to come as I get it done. Edited April 27, 2015 by microwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retroguy Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 very,very nice detail work...looking forward to the engine work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaftygas Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Great looking model Jim. I can't wait for pics of that mouse motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Hi Fred, I get them from this guy on ebay.. http://www.ebay.com/usr/bestmodelcarparts?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754 if he doesn't list what you are looking for on his ebay items, message him through his ebay contact, and ask him about it, he made some for me once that he didnt list. He can make photo reduced gauges for almost anything. Just remember they aren't decals they are photo reduced so ya got to cut them out with your trusty exacto knife and white glue them into place. But they are nice that's for sure. dang...SWEET!!! I'm bookmarking that as soon as I get to my regular "bookmarking" computer. thanx for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 very,very nice detail work...looking forward to the engine work Thanks Michael, I'll be starting work on both cars engines once I get both interiors complete. I usually do my chassis and engines at the same time so I can make sure all the detail work matches up. Great looking model Jim. I can't wait for pics of that mouse motor. Hi Joe, thanks buddy, LOL been a long time since I heard that phrase. "Mouse Motor" lol that's what we used to call those old chevy small blocks back in our youth. Especially the 265, 283, 302 (yes chevy made a 302), the 307 and the 327 engines. And even the 350 and the 400 were also sometimes refered to mouse motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 dang...SWEET!!! I'm bookmarking that as soon as I get to my regular "bookmarking" computer. thanx for sharing. You'll like the guy's stuff Mike. If he doesn't list what you want, just drop him a message about what your looking for, he made a set for me once that he didnt usually carry. You do have to be carefull cutting them out but a good shape exacto knife is all I ever use for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stray Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Dang it. You're really a wizard ain't you Jim? No way a human could produce that awesome quality and at the rate you do without using some kind of magic to slow down time or make the parts life-size then shrink them again when you're done painting them. You truly are amazing man. These are gonna be knock-outs like your other builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Man your interiors always come out looking sweet Jim!! Great job!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Man your interiors always come out looking sweet Jim!! Great job!!!! Truth! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrone Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Superb work buddy... LOVE IT...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAMBENNA Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 wow this is great stuff, looking awesome so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Thanks alot for all the kind comments everyone. Somestimes I think I put too much work into my builds. And then there are times where no matter how much time and patience I put into them I feel like they didn't turn out like I was hoping. But all the encouragment you all give me, during my builds, keeps my enthusiasm up. I've had some of you ask me about the different technics I use for some of my detailing on my projects, especially my interiors. So I plan to do a rather lengthy write up detailing some of my methods as I work on The interior for Pop's Toy (the 2 door SS) I have been working on it alot the past 2 days and have a lot of it ready to go. I'm pretty sure it's going to take a few posts on my part to get it all in, but if it is helpful and informative for some of you, then it's worth it. Bare with me as I go, I've never been good at typing and I'm what I call, the worlds worst speller, and my speel check doesnt always work on here for some reason lol. I may not get everything posted that I want to post tonight, so what I don't get up tonight, I will try to finish posting tomorrow morning. First let me start by sharing a pic of the tools and materials I will be using for working on the interior of Pop's Toy. It will be a black interior. And I won't be typing out the names of everything in the pic, you'll get the idea of what it's all for as I go along detailing the interior. One of the first things I do before I work on any model is to wash every piece and part of the kit in luke warm water with a little bit of Dawn dish liquid, then rinse them in cean warm water and dry everything off really well. Then I wipe all the parts down real good with 50% rubbing alcohol. Doing this gets any residue left over from the dish soap, and it also make BMF stick much better to bare plastic. I've had very little issues applying BMF after wiping down the plastic with rubbing alcohol first. I would not reccomend it on a painted surface though, It can work like thinner and eat through the paint. But for the purposes of what I'll be doing with the interior, I will be using this process on all the parts first. One of the first things I did was to clean and paint the interior tub Model Master Flat black lacquer. Once it dried, I masked off areas I didnt want flocked and spayed another coat of flat black on it. While the paint was still wet, I dusted it with a coating of black flocking material I had purchased from the Model Car Garage. One it had tacked up, I unmasked it and sat it aside to dry. I'll be continuing with the door panels in the following post so keep checking back. Edited April 29, 2015 by microwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Now is where wiping down the parts in Rubbing alcohol is critical. This helps the Bare Metal Foil stick to the plastic alot better and after paint is applied over it, it keeps it from lifting off the part as you clean the paint off the BMF. After a quick wipe down of the part with rubbing alcohol, I cut ample sized pieces of BMF and lay them loosely over the areas I want covered with BMF. For these panels, its the door handles, window cranks, and trim. Once I have the foil laying on the areas I want covered, I brandish it down gently with a qtip. Pressing to hard will cause the foil to rip or tear so for now just tamp it down gently with the qtip, there will be a few wrinkles and air pockets at this point, but don't worry, gently and I do mean gently with a very light touch, trace around the areas to be foiled with a tooth pic. It should take several passes if your doing it gently enough. If you try to do it all at once, you will most likely create rips or tears. A feather touch is always best when working with BMF. It's thin and pulls in the detail really nicely. But it's thiness is what makes it so sensitive to work with. Once you have it tight to the shape you want foiled, you can then give it a little firmer rub down with a qtip again to smooth out any remaining wrinkles. Why foil before paint you may ask. Well, yes you could foil after painting, but, for those of you who wonder why BMF always looks like it's wrinkled on some models trim work.. It's because BMF is so thin and hugs so tightly to the area it's applied to, that it can pick up even the slightest orange peal in the paint that it's applied over. If you apply the foil before paint, you will be supprised at how much smoother it will look. Once you have the foil as tight as you can get it around the area to be foiled, gently, using only the weight of the exacto knife, trim slowly and carefully around the area to be foiled and then gently remove the excess. I use tweezers for this process so I can use the scrap in another area. If you touch the glue area with you hand, the oil from you fingers will weaken the backing glue and it may not stick as well as it did before. The final result should look something like this. There is a chrome trim strip accross the top of both panels that will be covered as well. I also completely foiled the side air vent, this makes it easier to just clean away the detail I want to show. Both side panels were chrome foiled this way and then painted with Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black lacquer. Once the paint had dried to the touch on both side panels, it was time to clean the paint off the foiled areas. I poured a little bit of Denatured Alcohol in a small cup. (I use denatured alcohol because it takes the paint off really well and doesnt damage the chrome surface of the foil). I dipped a tooth pick in the alcohol and gently shook off the excess. I gently rub the tooth pick on a small area of the trim, it may take several dips in the alcohol and repete rubbings before you start to see a result. This is where patience comes into play, Don't try to clean the paint off fast, take your time and use feather touches to clean off the paint. It will be worth the time spent. It took me a good hour or two per panel to clean the paint off the trim. And the longer the lacquer paint dries, the more time it takes to get the paint to loosen up and wip off with the alcohol. The pic below shows my work in progress on the first panel. Once I had both panels chrome work ceaned off, I took out the MCG detail kit, found the two door trim pieces, gave them a light wash of flat aluminum, and the emblems were touched with a drop of flat black applied with a tooth pic. Once the paint dried the trim pieces were gently sanded to clean off any excess paint and shine up the edges. Continued in the following post..... Edited April 29, 2015 by microwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 wow .. where have I been?? ... this is such a great build thread .. got my popcorn and soda .. ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 The trim pieces were applied to there respective locations on each side panel using testors clear gloss lacquer as a adhesive. I just brushed it on in the area I wanted the parts to sit, and layed the parts in place while the clear lacquer was still wet. Once it dried it holds as good as any CA glue, without the mess. This would not work for something that had to hold any weight,but it works great for photo etched parts. The next few pics show the competed door side panels. Next up, I de-chromed the center console with oven cleaner, and gave it a good wash.I trimmed off the ss console enblem since the detail kit comes with a better one, I also gently sanded away the shift pattern since the detail kit comes with a trim piece that has the patteren on it. The console was then painted Tamiya Semi-gloss black. The top of the console was then covered in BMF and then a wash of Tamiya flat aluminum was painted on that. The edges were then cleaned up from any over paint to reveal the chrome edge trim. The Photo etched emblem and shift trim supplied in the MCG kit were then detail painted and lightly sanded and applied to the console. I have more completed that I will be posting in the morning, But it's late and Mr. Sandman is calling my name for tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 The interior work is outstanding. I like your paint technique, too for the bodies. Two very nice builds. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Morning everyone, Well I'm back at it this morning. I wanted to try to get on here and finish posting my updates for Pop's Toy interior from last night. Moving on to the seats, this is where the little evergreen strip in my materials photo from my above post comes into play. One thing I did forget to include in the materials photo was the glue I used for the seats. I used tamiya liquid cement for this job. I like how quicky it works and the applicator that is included in the lid for it. It makes these kind of jobs easier. I have tons of different types of glues guys, so I don't use one type for everything, It depends on the project on what type of glue I use. I assembled the seat halves and right away noticed a imperfection in the plastic on one of the seats, so a little green squadron putton and some gentle sanding and it was all taken care of. Next using my evergreen strip, and my tamiya glue, I started in the center of the lower seat area and applied the strip using the seam where the two halves meet as the application point. Most of the 66 SS Nova's had chrome trim around the seats, and I wanted to replicate it, and no I don't remember the size, (I lost the package a long time ago) but it's about the smallest you can get, I suppose even some everygreen or plastuct round or even half round rod would have been just as good, but I went with what you will see in the following pics. First here is a refference pic of the interior I'm replicating. In this next couple of pics, I sat the two assembled seats side by side, so you can see where, and how, I ran the plastic strip for the chrome trim. One seat has it and one without, this is to give you a comparison of the seats so you can understand why I chose to add the strip. Eventually both seats were trimmed this way. Also you can see in the first pic the area I had to repair on one of the seats. I then added BMF to the newly created seat trim as well as the center seat button on the back rest. I applied the same process to the second seat. and added the BMF to the back rest buttons on the back seat as well. This pic shows both front seats trimmed. Here are all three seats trimmed and ready for paint. Remember I always give any areas of bare plastic I plan to pre-trim with BMF a light washing in rubbing alcohol first. The seats were no different. I cleaned them after applying the trim strip since that was the area to be foiled. Seat work continued in the post to follow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Just to give you some perspective, I did most of my BMF work before painting any of the parts on this interior. the pic below is just to give you a over all idea of all the chrome work for the interior. The center console, and obviously the dash, were not done at this point. The console was completed after the seats and side panels were done. And the dash is still a work in progress. All the seats were painted Tamiya Semi-gloss black and once they had dried to the touch, I cleaned the paint off the foiled trim areas the same way I did with the side door panels, using my trusty denatured alcohol and tooth pic technic. The MCG photo-etched kit does come with the seat back center buttons but I chose to keep the molded on ones and just foil them. There wasn't enough of a difference to make it worth fussing with the photo etched ones. And here is a couple of pics of the completed interior parts to this point. The dash isn't completed yet and I still have the seat belts to make, but once everything comes to gether It should look pretty good in the Red SS. That's pretty much where I'm at for now. The dash will be covered in my next post hopefully in a day or two. I may post some of the process for the dash later today if I get time.. Thanks for looking and hope this helps some of you out. Feel free to use any of my ideas you find useful. More to come as I get it done...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Afternoon everyone. Just wanted to let you all know, for those that are interested, I should have a pretty lengthy multi-post write up on detailing my dash for the SS either later tonight, or, but more than likely tommorow morning. Edited April 29, 2015 by microwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Pol Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Never to old to learn new stuff thanks for sharing these two models look great so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) Jim, those door panels look incredible, so does the console and seats! I thought I was pretty good at interiors, but you are Da Man! I'm gonna start doing things your way, that's some sweet work! Edited April 29, 2015 by Custom Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Outstanding interior work. So you add your foil first. Great way to do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Jim, those door panels look incredible, so does the console and seats! I thought I was pretty good at interiors, but you are Da Man! I'm gonna start doing things your way, that's some sweet work! Well I still think you pretty darn good at interiors Mike. Thank my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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