Revell Starsky & Hutch Torino - Has Anyone Encountered This Problem?

[jparsons1969]

Hey guys,

I recently purchased the Revell Starsky & Hutch '74 Ford Torino. After thoroughly washing and rinsing the parts, I applied Krylon White Primer to the body, hood, and parts. All parts molded in black turned out fine. However, the hood had major deep cracking issues. The body has cracking issues in the engine bay area. The rest of the body has red tint leaching out through the primer. No cracks on the other red molded parts, just red leaching through the primer. I've always used this primer before base coating on all my other kits regardless of the color the plastic is molded in, and I've never encountered this before.

I stripped the primer from the hood with an acetone solution and it was just a pink mess. After stripping it, there was an oily residue on the hood.  I then attempted to flame treat the hood by passing over it lightly with a torch to extract any other solvents from the plastic, but was unsuccessful as the hood is too thin and warped badly. 

I contacted Revell regarding the issue and they are requiring me to remove the UPC symbol from the box and mail it to them, which seems like more trouble than it's worth.

At this point, I think I will apply Testor's Competition Red and see what happens with the body. I also think I will tape off the engine bay and brush apply Testor's gloss black to see if it will fill the cracking around the wheel wells. Since I have no hood, I am installing a supercharger from my parts stash, and it is what it is.

Any thoughts or comments? I appreciate any input or advice on this issue as I have learned many useful tools from you guys on this forum.

Thanks

[Zen]

Finishing up one of theses now and had no issues. I sprayed mine with Duplicolor grey primer and everything covered well.

[rickcaps55]

 Hi I hope this helps I to am a big Krylon  fan I use it on a lot of plastic projects but I have found that when it comes to models it is not as good as if I used the Model Master or Tama brand for both the primer and finish coat. I have had this happen to a couple of my cars both Revel and AMT so I have stopped  using it on my cars and stick to the model paint. Someone had told me that in some cases the Krylon is to strong of a base chemical for the light plastic used on models.

[OneTrickPony]

Dunk it in the purple pond and start over. Attempts to fix or patch it are not going to work out well in my experience.

Edited January 26, 2017 by OneTrickPony

[Dodge Driver]

This happened to me using Krylon Maxx white primer on two different kit plastics. I stopped using the Maxx and switched to Plastikote white primer. I don't know what happened, but I won't use Maxx on kit plastic again. I generally don't have good luck with Krylon general purpose spray paints on plastic.

Homeshades primer from Walmart is the most fool-proof spray primer I have used.

[martinfan5]

The problem is you are trying to use junk paint .

 

[Daddyfink]

I know that some are trying to save a buck by using large cans of commercial paints to do their kits and then are shocked at the results. I know some have luck with these paints, but, why risk it?

And yes, paint for plastic kits is not cheap, but then again, I have never had that issue because of the paint. 

This thread should be under General or Workbench. Not exactly a review or news. 

 

Edited January 27, 2017 by Daddyfink

[935k3]

I couldn't agree more. The original formula KRYLON was very good quality. I still have some of the gloss white and satin black. They had had the same paint for 25 yrs or so then decided to change it to the crappy versions of enamel it has become. It is a shame.

The problem is you are trying to use junk paint .

 

The problem is you are trying to use junk paint .

 

[unclescott58]

 

I contacted Revell regarding the issue and they are requiring me to remove the UPC symbol from the box and mail it to them, which seems like more trouble than it's worth.

 

More trouble than it's worth? Mailing UPC from the box sounds pretty easy and fair to me. They're not asking to ship the whole kit back, are they? I've found that Revell has very good customer service. In fact they are one of the best.

Second. Red plastic sucks! I use Tamiya primer. And it seems like no matter how much primer I use on red plastic, I always get a pink tint in the primer in the end. I've never had the wrinkling problem you had. I've found that dark lacquer colors over primer covers the red plastic in the end. I hate red plastic more than any other color. I've read here and in other places about why, or why not, red plastic is a problem. There is a lot of disagreement by people as to what the problem is. 

Scott

 

Edited January 27, 2017 by unclescott58

[Tom99]

I used Duplicolor Primer Sealer, followed by Duplicolor Silver, followed by Duplicolor Primer Sealer to get rid of the red bleed thru.

[jparsons1969]

Thanks for the advice and replies, though some in my opinion came off very pompous and condescending, such as telling me where I should and shouldn't post a topic and insinuating that I am cheap. I obviously am not up to the caliber of some of the more sophisticated model building elite on this board. I'm just a regular dude who enjoys building models, been doing it for years. Once again, to the more hospitable replies, I appreciate you responding. But as for the ones who went out of their way to make me feel as an inferior dumbass, I'll not monopolize your time again.

Regards

[espo]

Thanks for the advice and replies, though some in my opinion came off very pompous and condescending, such as telling me where I should and shouldn't post a topic and insinuating that I am cheap. I obviously am not up to the caliber of some of the more sophisticated model building elite on this board. I'm just a regular dude who enjoys building models, been doing it for years. Once again, to the more hospitable replies, I appreciate you responding. But as for the ones who went out of their way to make me feel as an inferior dumbass, I'll not monopolize your time again.

Regards

Please don't run away mad. I also have had the fight with a body in Red plastic. One thing I learned here from others is that red is very difficult to seal. What I also learned was that a number of builders have used the color silver on top of primer will block the red from  showing thru. I think everyone was trying to help you by sharing their experiences.  

[Againmikewins]

I sprayed mine with two coats of Tamiya primer and currently have 1 mist and 1 wet coat on my Torino. I haven't encountered this issue. 

Purple pond the body and then let it soak in water with dish detergent. 

I'd also go to Revell's site and request a new hood. Boom, back in business! 

[carcrazy19]

I have found that if you apply the primer in heavy coats you will get cracking or crazing. If you want to try to do it again apply lighter coats and hopefully that will help. I've sent a UPC label a couple of times for new bodies and parts and yeah it can take some time to get the part but give it a try if you want. They send the replacements free of charge so there is no risk invovled.

[Dave Van]

No issues here....but on my stock build I used all Tamiya spray cans and on the Bill Elliott it was Dupli-color #1699 sealer and then Testors through the air brush. 

 

[Sledsel]

I used red oxide then gray primer, no issues other than the kit itself

[Bob Ellis]

Some primers cause wrinkles

 

[kurth]

It is hard to tell in the picture, Did the plastic craze or is it just the paint with the issue?  My only guess is you might have applied too heavy a coat.

 

 If you do not want to try and strip it, it sounds like you have a good plan moving forward, the black will probably conceal the cracking the best.

I used Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500, it comes in bottles and spray cans. I painted mine red, but I did not notice the red plastic through the primer.  Sorry you had a hard time, it is a fun kit to build.

 

Edited January 28, 2017 by kurth

[935k3]

BIN sealer shown below is very good at sealing plastic and puttying to give you a very stable surface to apply all other paints over. It does not spray well out of the can, it should be airbrushed. If thinner is needed alcohol works well as it is shellac based. It sands well also. The big box and smaller hardware stores have it.

 

Edited January 28, 2017 by 935k3

[kurth]

BIN sealer shown below is very good at sealing plastic and puttying to give you a very stable surface to apply all other paints over. It does not spray well out of the can, it should be airbrushed. If thinner is needed alcohol works well as it is shellac based. It sands well also. The big box and smaller hardware stores have it.

 

 

Ah yes I totally forgot about BIN.  I have used in other applications, just never on a model.  When it comes to thinner do you mean Isopropyl Alcohol or Denatured alcohol?

 

 

[935k3]

I used 91% Alcohol. I think denatured is usually the preferred thinner for shellacs. If it goes on rough don't worry too much it sands very well.

[keyser]

The Acetone and the torch is not going to improve situation. If anything, it'll make it worse. Acetone trashes plastic. Heat warps it. 

Purple power will strip it, but my guess is body is toast. Send UPC. 

That said, I've not always had nice responses from Revell. I had gift kit that was off eBay. Rep insisted on receipt, despite telling her it was gift. Acted like I stole the thing. Same thing happened with Hasegawa on a short shot that I sent pictures. Mostly decent service though. Some employed people need to be unemployed if they're so unhappy.

[jparsons1969]

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it.

[Luc Janssens]

BIN sealer shown below is very good at sealing plastic and puttying to give you a very stable surface to apply all other paints over. It does not spray well out of the can, it should be airbrushed. If thinner is needed alcohol works well as it is shellac based. It sands well also. The big box and smaller hardware stores have it.

 

Just checked it, and to my surprise it's available in Europe as well, so ordered me a can, to try it out.

[MrObsessive]

I second the motion for using BIN..........I've used it a number of times and I've had no problems. Here's the can in its base form----you'll have to mix it up once you open it. 

Call me paranoid, but I haven't trusted Revell's plastics for over 10 years now ever since I was hearing horror stories about plastic crazing on even somewhat mild hobby paints in the early '00's. Their plastic is not as dense as it used to be IMO and should have a barrier coat on it to prevent crazing whether it's molded in red or not. 

I hate surprises when it comes to paint...........I put in too much time into bodywork and getting things ready for paint. This to me is more peace of mind that things don't go to ruin.

BTW, I also use alcohol to thin it if need be, but out of the can I've not had to do that much. I also use an old Badger Crescendo airbrush to put it on. Like 935K3 said, don't use the aerosol can. IMO it's worthless and will make a mess.