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Since  zip ties are so commonly used on race cars, I decided to figure out how to make them. I first used this technique in the late '90s, when I built the top fuel engine pictured below. I used Clover House black nylon monofilament for the one in this tutorial, but, those on the fuel motor's plug wires were made using monofilament fishing line. They can be made fairly quickly, and, they are pretty convincing!

To begin, you'll need the following: X-Acto knife, a small scribe (anything that will pierce the monofilament, without tearing it "out"), a heat source (I use a lighter, but an alcohol lamp is just as good, maybe better), nylon monofilament (I used Clover House, because it's black. I have it in .011", .014", .015". Fishing line also works, and comes in different colors, too.) tweezers, super glue, and an applicator (I use a small wooden dowel, with a headless straight pin cemented into the end). A pin vise can be useful in cleaning out the holes, but, it isn't necessary for the application.

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Begin by cutting a six to eight inch length of monofilament.

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If you have a smooth-jawed vise, use it to flatten a segment of the mono, on one end. This step is optional, but, it does add a subtle touch of realism.

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Slowly push the end of the "mono" toward the flame, until it begins to melt, and forms a ball on the end. Gently mash the molten blob between your thumb and forefinger, to flatten it. If the "flat" is too distorted, it can be trimmed to shape with the knife. You should end up with something that looks similar to this:

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Next, using the scribe, awl, or other puncturing device, poke a hole through the now flattened end.

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Now, feed one end of the mono around/through the desired location. In this instance, I am using the "zip-ties to bind a return fuel line to the frame tube (see arrows in image, below), so, the mono needs to go around the lower frame tube and the fuel line, but, nothing else (I only provide this caveat out of my own experience--you can learn from my frustrations!). Now, feed the "virgin" end of the mono through the hole in the flattened end.

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Now, pull the monofilament taut, securing the line to the frame tube.

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Secure the tie by applying a tiny drop of super glue to the mono, where it passes through the hole (couldn't actually photograph this operation, because I only have two hands, and lack the necessary control for this operation with my left hand). You should end up with something like this:

 

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Now, simply snip the mono to the desired length, and you're done!

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Here's a shot of a fuel motor I built a couple of decades ago. I used Clover House line for the fuel lines and fishing line to make the ties for the plug wires.

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Here's  photo with loose zip-ties, to illustrate how nicely they represent the real deal.

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The best way to represent any item, in scale, is to make it from the same material ad the real thing. While that isn't always a realistic goal, in this instance, is easy to accomplish using readily available materials and tools. Give 'em a shot, next time you need to tie up a loose end, or two (Sorry. Bad pun. It's genetic--I got it from my dad!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Straightliner59
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Interesting idea.  I think that just squeezing the monofilament in a pair of small pliers (placing it closer to the joint for greater pressure) will flatten it nicely too - no vise needed.  I do this to even flatten copper and brass wire.

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