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Posted

The interior looks fine, sometimes basic is better. Once it's all assembled most of the interior won't be visible any way.

When I built my '32 Vicky, I went to the trouble of making some map pockets for the door panels and, you guessed it! They're almost impossible to see after final assembly.

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Ah well, at least I know that they're there.

:D

David G.

Posted
1 hour ago, David G. said:

The interior looks fine, sometimes basic is better. Once it's all assembled most of the interior won't be visible any way.

When I built my '32 Vicky, I went to the trouble of making some map pockets for the door panels and, you guessed it! They're almost impossible to see after final assembly.

32_Vicky_18_12.jpg.c413c5010f7f3b041d4b8176ab74fe74.jpg

 

Ah well, at least I know that they're there.

:D

David G.

I hear ya Dave.  Nice looking.

Posted
19 hours ago, Zippi said:

Ok....made a little more headway on the Sedan.  I did a pretty much plain Jane interior.  I blacked out the whole bottom as I was loosing interest in the crappy parts I was gluing on.  I may go back and paint the floor black.  This is the last MPC kit for me.  

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Sorry to hear of the issues with this kit. I recently bought one ‘cause the box art is nice.? I’m sure you’ll get her looking great though.? Following with interest!

Posted

Ok....finally got the 32 Sedan in primer.  Looks like rain for the next few days so not sure when I'll get the top coat on.  

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Posted

It's obviously your call based on your own experiences, but I don't know that I would judge all MPC products based on one kit. Especially a kit like a Switchers kit. I'm sure other builders will come of with a plethora of good MPC kit examples

Posted
40 minutes ago, Mr. Metallic said:

It's obviously your call based on your own experiences, but I don't know that I would judge all MPC products based on one kit. Especially a kit like a Switchers kit. I'm sure other builders will come of with a plethora of good MPC kit examples

Yeah....I may have jumped the gun on that.  It just may be the age of the kit to.  I saw somewhere that Tamiya was #1 followed by Revell, AMT, and MPC.  Can't remember if there were any others.  I guess I'm just going on what I have built.  Sorry if I offended any of the MPC guys.  

Posted (edited)

You are doing well with this sedan Bob. If you want to get it lower I would look at bending a piece of K&S aluminium tubing to the shape you want and then inserting the MPC plastic axle ends into it - that should get you lower without having to buy another kit.

I don't think it is as easy as ranking model companies in order of quality.  I have built hot rods from every company imaginable and some are good, some are not so good.  Quality is a tough value to describe.  Early Revell hot rods had some of the finest detailed parts ever put in a kit but pity help anyone who tried to assemble them!  Tamiya produce superb kits with outstanding engineering but I have exactly one in my collection because they don't do the cars I love, and they don't do engines.  Monogram do terrific hot rods but some people don't like 1/24th and the Beachboys 3 window coupe was an eyesore!  AMT really kicked off the whole hot rod thing but their 34 Tudor was drawn up by someone who was legally blind. 

The Switchers kit wasn't MPC's finest hour but if you ever get the chance to build an AMT 28 Tudor, actually designed by MPC, it is one of the most delicately yet accurately presented hot rod kits of all time.   

And some times, with the best model kit in the history of model kits, you personally will screw up and not get the result you planned for!  It's just the way it goes.  Never be afraid to ask the guys on this forum for tips and tricks about any kit you are looking at buying - the knowledge pool on this board is amazing!

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Alan

Edited by alan barton
  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, alan barton said:

You are doing well with this sedan Bob. If you want to get it lower I would look at bending a piece of K&S aluminium tubing to the shape you want and then inserting the MPC plastic axle ends into it - that should get you lower without having to buy another kit.

I don't think it is as easy as ranking model companies in order of quality.  I have built hot rods from every company imaginable and some are good, some are not so good.  Quality is a tough value to describe.  Early Revell hot rods had some of the finest detailed parts ever put in a kit but pity help anyone who tried to assemble them!  Tamiya produce superb kits with outstanding engineering but I have exactly one in my collection because they don't do the cars I love, and they don't do engines.  Monogram do terrific hot rods but some people don't like 1/24th and the Beachboys 3 window coupe was an eyesore!  AMT really kicked off the whole hot rod thing but their 34 Tudor was drawn up by someone who was legally blind. 

The Switchers kit wasn't MPC's finest hour but if you ever get the chance to build an AMT 28 Tudor, actually designed by MPC, it is one of the most delicately yet accurately presented hot rod kits of all time.   

And some times, with the best model kit in the history of model kits, you personally will screw up and not get the result you planned for!  It's just the way it goes.  Never be afraid to ask the guys on this forum for tips and tricks about any kit you are looking at buying - the knowledge pool on this board is amazing!

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Alan

Thanks for the info and tips Alan.  

Posted

N worries Bob,  and I have one more tip.

Back a page or so you mentioned your favourite part, the windshield frame. When I built my delivery decades ago, I didn't notice the gap but I did notice that the lower frame is way too thick or "tall" - it's at least twice what a real 32 windshield would be.

If you get a brand new blade and vertically slice the centre piece away from the either sides, then slide it down a mm or so and glue it back together, you should be able to file and sand it to an exact fit in the windshield opening and it will look far more realistic, even if you now have a short vertical cut line at each end.  It is pretty easy to do and worth the effort.

Cheers

Alan

Posted
9 hours ago, alan barton said:

N worries Bob,  and I have one more tip.

Back a page or so you mentioned your favourite part, the windshield frame. When I built my delivery decades ago, I didn't notice the gap but I did notice that the lower frame is way too thick or "tall" - it's at least twice what a real 32 windshield would be.

If you get a brand new blade and vertically slice the centre piece away from the either sides, then slide it down a mm or so and glue it back together, you should be able to file and sand it to an exact fit in the windshield opening and it will look far more realistic, even if you now have a short vertical cut line at each end.  It is pretty easy to do and worth the effort.

Cheers

Alan

Thanks Alan.

Posted

Just waiting on a day without the rain and humidity to airbrush the topcoat on the sedan.  After that it's just putting the bumpers, lights, etc. and it will be finished.

Posted

Ok....the humidity got down below 70% so I got the airbrush out.  Started with the fenders and shot some Anita's Burgundy and it came out great.  After cleaning out the airbrush I started painting the body parts and after a second coat I knew something wasn't right.  The paint looked spotty so I stopped.  I used the same process and all parts had the same primer.  I ditched Anita's Vanilla Cream paint.  I have another color that's a little darker so I'll give that a shot.

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Posted (edited)

Didn't see it in the primer so I'm assuming it's the paint.  Looks like lepros ☺

Edited by Zippi
Posted
16 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Didn't see it in the primer so I'm assuming it's the paint.  Looks like lepros ☺

Too bad about those spots .  I had something similar happen when somebody sprayed air freshener in through a doorway , never saw it until I started painting .

Posted

That's not all that bad Bob.

Just give it a good scrub with Comet or something similar, maybe a going over with some 3600 grit wet sandpaper and give it a nice couple mist coats followed by a couple wet coats, letting dry between coats, of cores, and I think you'll be  pleasantly surprised with how it turns out.

Posted (edited)

Ok fella's, dodged a bullet on this one.  I let the acrylic paint dry for about 45 min then I went of it with 2000 grit, cleaned it off, airbrushed a little darker color.  It's still a little wet.  Once it cures out it will look fine.   I like it.

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Edited by Zippi
Posted

Thanks Steve and Carl.  I need to let the paint cure for 24 hrs the clear coat, wet sand, and polish.

Posted

Great color combo, I like it a lot. 

I am so glad you are doing this kit, I have one in the stash and will be atacking it one day, nice to have you go and point out all the flaws with the kit so I know what to look for and are prepred for the challenge it will be. It is not my preferred subject, but I gotthe kit basicly for free, so I will build it. 

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