Muncie

All three are among the best - product and service - They sell from inventory so it's fast and no worries - don't have to wait for somebody to make the parts after your order. I would give them a little extra time around the holidays, especially with the weather we've had this year and the way the post office has been slammed.

Son of Danger! George, I've enjoyed all of your graveyard posts. Does this have a future? - it looks like it could be saved with the current Round 2 '63 Corvette as a donor car...

Round 2 - wheel and white letter tire parts pack with the wide slicks from their funny car or dragster kits... would like to update the tires in some old kits with these slicks. I wonder if they could include the blower injector from the new re-issue wedge dragster as a bonus part.

Just a couple of thoughts... Replicas and Miniatures makes a tire and wheel set to replace the slicks in the kit - still about the same size but a lot better. The 1960's Revell slicks are 16" and it looks like Revell was going for the earlier 15" wheels on the slingster.

True - very limited to what they can be used for - although these wheels are good for making replicas of other cars that ran a Indy from the Monogram Roadster kit, they are huge for 1/25 - they are 18" wheels for a kit that is oversize to start with. It looks like they are from a 3d printed master so anything may be possible with a turn of the dial.

One last one... American Racing Miniatures - more indy car styles available - http://americanracingminiatures.com/

IndyCals - for the Monogram Indy Roadster - http://www.indycals.net/

Speed City Resin Casting - has fronts and several styles available - http://www.speedcityresin.com/PartsPage.htm These are deep and shallow

Competition Resins has these - also have rear and other styles available These are the fronts from the Bruce Larson Vega pro-stock - unfortunately, that's the only kit that had them

Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting has these - very nice - rears and plenty of other styles available - plus his legendary Willys bodies - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/member_dealer_directory/drag-city-casting-/parts/

cool chop - looks good! I would have looked at all those curved surfaces and said no way for me - but you made it look easy.

#11 blades for most utility work - count me in with a preference for the Excel brand. I like the U.S. made thing and X-acto seems to have gone downhill gradually over the last few years Excel are sharper and last longer. The Testors Model Master blades are the sharpest #11 that I've used but cost a bit more and are harder to find locally so I save them for fine work. I tried the scalpel blades and they are brutally sharp. I will probably get a better handle and spend some time practicing before I get to the next foil project. That's a good idea in the post above to use scalpel blades for trimming soft goods - I'm going to try it

For those looking for wedge dragster history and information, Phil Burgess at NHRA has a weekly blog and it's all archived. On the right side of the page in a archive index. Click on 2009 and go to April and May for the series on wedge dragsters. The index will take you the rest of the way. Also check out his series on ramp tucks in July to August - it's equally entertaining. Who will be the first to build a model of a wedge dragster on a ramp truck? http://www.nhra.com/blog/dragster-insider/

Looking forward to this one and the future variations - I have a couple of incomplete builders in the stack but it will be much better to start with the new kit with the new injector hat and tires - plus all of the parts... I worked at an auto parts warehouse with a guy that was crew for Steve McGee's dragster, they bought it from Kenny Goodell, The Action Man, iron hemi from my buddy's 1967 GTX - I never saw it race but heard about the weekends on Monday morning. They couldn't completely get rid of Goodell's purple color scheme, too many anodized and painted parts to change on the engine and chassis - McGee's cars were usually black - that's the story behind the black with purple flames on the Black Beauty (never heard them call it that...) The wedge deal didn't work for them so it was quickly dropped and the car was converted to a conventional rear engine dragster. Slixx had'/has the decals for the Kenny Goodell wedge - I can see a purple wedge dragster in my future Tim, thank you again for another great review

SC could be Sleeper Cab... but I like the idea that it's a typo and both the day cab single drive and sleeper cab dual drive parts are in the same box. Also curious about the significance of the "75th" in the kit name. It's about the right timing for Freightliner's 75th anniversary but I can't see Daimler Trucks allowing that on a kit with a competitor's name.

I don't have anything definitive on the Dyno Don car but I'm also going with Poppy Red, etc. Poppy Red has a lot of orange in it when you get close in person but it usually photographs and prints as red.

incredible work - this is amazing and keeps getting better is it possible to go all out on the FED chassis and print a box around it - something that ties into the chassis and can be trimmed away?

that's a cool set of pictures - thanks for posting them

Mike, I'm with you on that - paint or primer - a couple of light coats, let them get tacky and gradually apply wetter coats so the paint smooths out. Even with my favorite Plasti-Kote T-235 sandable gray primer and older kits plastic, I could get light crazing if the first coats were too wet. Plasti-Kote has a lot of texture so I want to try some Duplicolor primer-sealer but will take it slow. There are a couple of kits that will make donations to the learning experience.

for anybody considering this - so... drill falls out of the vise - it will happen because a hand drill is not made to go in a vise - it's still running and bouncing around on the floor... had it happen... try to catch drill, hit head on vise... wasn't worth it The rotating part catches the sharp end of the tool and pitches it at a fairly good speed - who knows where - hopefully away from the operator - and gravity still works so it's going to land someplace after it's hits a couple of things - unless it's sticking in something. Even with a lathe, something like a hand held file can hit one of the jaws on the chuck when it's turning and throw the pointy handle end back at whoever is holding it - always use a handle on a file... it won't hurt as much. Plenty of good resources mentioned above - Reconsider proper tools, learning how to use them, and proper safety procedures around sharp tools and moving parts

I don't mean to be too critical, but that sounds way too scary... A drill in a vise with a chisel - too much opportunity for an injury when things go badly. That is some experience speaking... It sounds like you have the basics of a wood shop lathe (minus a place to rest the tool) but are trying to do machine work which would be done on a metal lathe. Neither the vise holding the drill or holding the tools in your hand will offer the stability that you need to accomplish acceptable results. The chuck on metal lathe tightens down on the part the part and the cutting tool is securely fastened in the tool holder - so the machining can be controlled and nothing comes loose. First place to look is at some you tube videos on metal turning - everything should be available from miniature machining to stuff for battleships. Consider a community college course if that's available, or check in with a local machinist or hobbyist that can get things started.

good to know the differences - I'm OK with the MPC wheels but good to know there are other options available.

I wish they would... but that's a pretty small minority...

They are also in the new '79 TransAm

Oh yeah! nicely done! paint turned out great Love it, One of the big hitters in Northwest funny car racing in the 70's - ran just as good as it looked.