Muncie

paint it all - if I don't, the spot that I didn't paint will be something visible for sure... (should that be posted in you must be a model builder if ...) I used to leave the sides of the interior tub and the inside of the body bare - sure enough could see down thru the window into the gap between the body and interior to see unpainted/ plastic and overspray - that's a difficult spot to touch up later.

OK, remember i like the lazy solution... and sometimes lack of patience - just some simple ideas i remove the wipers and rescribe the windshield molding. i just leave the remaining cowl vent openinings without scribing in the slots where the wipers were - doesn't look too bad. On a gasser, minor cutomizing is permitted if it does not affect performance - so I'd probably sand the vents down below the surface so they don't reappear and fill them in completly.

That old printer enclosure looks like a good spray booth It might be OK to store the compressor in the spray booth cabinent when you are not using it - but it would work better if it wasn't running so close to where you are painting. If the compressor is small enough to fit inside the spary booth, then I'm guessing that it does not have a storage tank. If that's the case, it's good to have a length of hose - about 10 feet may be good - to absorb and even out the pulsation in the air line from the compressor. Good smoth air flow is a requirement. It's also good to keep the compressor out of the area to avoid contamination or stirring up the air and dirt around the spary booth - It's one more thng that can wreck a piant job.

Very cool! - looks ready to make a run - I appreciate the extra effort that you made to use the rule book. Yeah, I hope you get to move SpeedWeek off the bucket list but beware, there is no known cure for salt fever!

April 18, 2015, 9AM-4PM 25th Annual - Pacific NW Model Car Fest New Location! Red Lion Inn at the Quay, 100 Clumbia Street, Vancouver WA Info - http://www.sabanw.com/ More Northwest model car events at - http://www.sabanw.com/2015-pnw-model-events/ - (more to be added)

Thanks Bill - i used this yeserday

I like LDO's idea - A turned ring would be a precise fixture. I'm a litle lazier and cruder. I've bent a ring out of .030 brass stock so I can slide it over the part to clear the lip on rim. Simply bent around anthing round about the right size. It just has to be close to round and fit under the jaws of the chuck. Even cruder, I've just used pieces of thicker brass stock under each of the three jaws. The brass protects the aluminum of the part.

Exactly - None close - but have three or four on my path for running errands - Each is unique and it changes beween stops. Never know what I'll find or not.

Thanks for the tips - should be useful for other paints as well. I think you fixed the problem I had with One Shot... My only expereience with spraying one shot was with some advice from a local club member. He used Darby's reducer to thin the One Shot for spraying and he mentioned that it atomizes so finely that the overspray goes everywhere - his paint booth was in the laundry room and red overspray turned all the whites pink. The results on the model were incredible - smooth with very high gloss. So I tried it - in the garage... Thirty years and two moves later I still find traces of yellow One Shot overspray. It stayed wet with the Darby's reducer so it stuck everywhere it landed. I may have to try it again - your instruction to spray with lacquer thinner should eliminate a lot of the oversary problems.

iinboard and outboard drums - It's the mounting location on the hub flange. Inboard drums are mounted on the inboad side of the hub flange so the hub and bearings have to be disassembled to change brake linings. They probably disappeard in the '80's. Outboard drums are mounted on the outboard side of the hub flange and can be removed by just sliding them off the wheel studs - makes life easier. Wouldn't be noticeable on a model truck but cool that somebody has heard of them. Typical drum size is 15X4 front, 16-1/2x7 rear(?memory test) - thats the size of the surface that contacts the brake lining. front brakes don't have the dual chambers - no parking brakes on the front axle. Most of the AMT kits were originally made before Federal regulations required front brakes. The instruction sheet that you show is typical and front brakes could be sourced from any kit of the same vintage with front brakes. The truck manufacurers all used similar pieces from the available brake manufacturer suppliers. Just stay away from the wedge brakes on the White Frieghtliners. CF was about the only fleet that I can remember that ran them.

just a heads-up.. it may take two kits (or a trade here) to get good wheels. The kit has two good wheels and two that have an offset at the parting line in the mold

Wouldn't it be cool if the T came with Little T and SweeTee parts in the same kit and the Little Deuce and Son of Ford also came in the same kit? Would realy like to see stock hood sides in the Monogram Deuce!

Well done! That shows why we want this back with the original Little T parts....

update - Also received my 3 year old order today - good to see Jeff is getting these taken care of - no issues with the quality of the product

not a problem - just giving a heads-up to those without paypal who are thinking about dealing with him

from the remaiining pieces of the '28 Lincoln that I built in my youth... tire OD - 1.60" (40") whitewall insert OD - 1.20" (30") Tire/whitewal ID 0.965 (24" measured - not sure what the 1:1 wheel size is) 0.275 wide dual spares so 6 tires with wheels in the kit - no funky plastic spares or spare tire covers They are a bit narrower and different than the tires in the '32 Chrysler

From what's been posted here, it looks like some of us are still waitng for orders - mine back to 2011... Purchasing through Ebay may offer some protection but I won't send him another dime.

might want to search the history for Time Machine on the forum... may be OK on Ebay - but otherwise not so good... Modelhaus has several Mopar scoops. Their online store has them listed under the car that they are made for. I bought a pair of twin scoops for a 1971 Duster from them a while back. They may have others - check under Demon also. Good parts, good service. Ususally a 4-6 week wait but worth it and you will get what you ordered.

I've got one of these Corvettes going with the custom parts also - found an empty box last year with the custom parts to build using the AMT kit that's in the stores now. To mess with you plans a iittle bit... The interior tub in the '62 kit includes the trunk interior - the later issues don't. Unless the back of the body is opened up under the custom rear end with the custom roof, it is not visible or required with the custom version. The latest AMT1962 "sock to me" Corvette is basically the same kit minus the trunk and the cool cutomizing parts - If you get one of those, you can start mixing parts and end up with both the cutom version with the roof and a 1962 Corvette with the opening trunk that was only in the 1962 issue. That's two cool Corvettes. Careful lining up the roof - it doesn't fit very well.

Louie Louie

Some automotive paints are too "hot" and will craze the plastic - not a good start for a paint job. You'll probably need something as a bariier coat between the plastic and the paint. Many use good old Plastikote primer T-235 - it's my go to but it is fairly coarse grained which makes a thicker layer of primer. I've used automitve sealer as well - not a bad place to start - covers everything and goes under anything. Sealer comes ready to spray and requires no mixing It goes on very thin. The old can I have is Ditzler PGG DL1970. If you ask 20 people about paint, you'll get 40 answers. As noted above find out what works best for you.

Thanks Tim - Good to see the introduction. I knew the truck was in the works but didn't know when. Add me to those who want to see an all new kit as well.

and last week - BMW, Roush, Tiffin, Bluebird Paccar (KW, Peterbilt) and Honda were among the manufacturers that submited Defect Information Reports to NHTSA to recall motor vehicles to remedy a defect that affects motor vehicle safety on vehicles that had been delivered to customers...

I agree with Wayne

Freightliner is a "custom truck" builder and wheelbase is offered in one inch increments. Sorry, I just can't get the brain cells to work well enough to remember the common wheelsbases... depends mostly on cab and sleeper size plus forward or set-back front axle location. Ebay is a good idea, also look for trucks for sale. The truck specs should include the wheelbase. Wheelbase is measured from front axle to the centerline of the tandem. Freightliner sleeper sizes were 34", 40" and 60". The 63" was an Able Body raised roof sleeper with different design and construction that was offered for a short time before Freightliner introduced their own 60" raised roof sleeper. Fuel tanks on conventionals were standard at 22-7/8" diameter from 60 to 140 gallon in 10 gallon increments. 27-1/4 fuel tank diameter was optional in 70 to 150 gallons - sometimes used when rail space was limited. 170 gallon tanks were almost never used on conventionals because they were 29" diameter and could not be used for cab entry steps.