Muncie

probably a little artistic work in that brochure. The aluminum roof skins were riveted to the roof framing. Have to agree that the rivets in the AMT cab may be a little larger than they need to be.

in the '70's, Freightliner painted the assembled chassis with the engine and transmission installed - even the air lines and wiring harnessses were installed. The engine and radiator were masked off, but the trans was painted chassis color. Chassis color could be any solid color the customer wanted. However... The whole transssion couldn't be painted because there were other things like frame rails and crossmembers in the way. In the areas where the paint didn't cover, the transmssion base color showed through. I remember them all being black on the line before chassis paint. The transmssion brochure probably used red because it looks better.

difficult to really get good color from the photo - but it looks like an orange that Ford had in their commercial/fleet colors - could be the same as grabber orange.

yep, everybody needs one - The story is the guy did the presentation in one take with no notes

Thanks Tim - I've made the trip to the Autorama three times and there are always regrets on the first day of the show when I don't. Detroit is the Motor City! Really appreciate the pictures to see what's there.

yeah, I could go for one of those - but it kind of reminds me that i'm getting into the age when my grandparents alway had Buicks...

#4 - hood - Mark's got it, You can notice the shape near the hood pins that lines up with the character line on the Challenger front fender. The 'Cuda doesn't have that shape. However somebody may have shortened a Challeger hood to fit a 'Cuda. It is an easy modification so it may be worhtwhile check the part against a known Challenger hood for size.

Glad you said it better - would hate to see D-i-L trash something that somebody else would enjoy. Wouldn't even mind it going to some of the dealers that I know because at least it would be re-distributed.

Oh yeah, can remember when the NNL West and the Oakland Roadster show were on the same weekend (probably 1990?ish) what a great combination. Have Linda Vaughns' autograph on a Chezoom poster on the wall in the laundry room as a souvenier.

probably going to have to step over to the the railroad or military corner of the hobby world - maybe in the aftermarket/internet section...

build them... and there is nothing that says they have to be built as Snake and Mongoose either this version is not that rare and not likely to increase in value - they can make more... basically, you got a great deal becaue it's two kits for $35

well, kind of thought not my problem.... But daughter in law doesn't like me and said it all goes in a dumpster so I'm working on another plan. Will be watching here for ideas and useful guidance.

Let me think about that one... If he has too many irons in the fire to fill his orders, why is he trying to operate another business... I guess gave up too early after mailing and calling him for over a year and a half. Never got what I paid for and that was over two years ago. Yeah, I heard the lost in the mail story several times as well, but my money order got there OK Glad you got your parts, there are others out there that never will.

Love - it, very cleanly done have a couple in the queue - thanks for the how-to

dusting off the crystall ball with a little help from Revell's Deuce history... full hood 28-29 chopped coupe (w/option for top insert or filled top) Guide headlamps Deuce grille shell under chassis exhaust system your favorite hot rod engine (the Buick works for me) bomber seats show rod grille shell? another set of wheels salt flat tonneau and Bonneville equipment Just wishing and total speculation here...

Chuck, you gave it one day! Your posts do remind people that you are still out there and making new products... Please add a link to your website in your signature or profile - it wll make it easier to see the other decals that you offer.

That mold line on the edge of the fender should go away - it s a smooth radius on that part of the fender. While you're there, soften up the peak on the top of the fender - it's a little too high and sharp. Leave a lttle of the peak on the top of the fender - it is not a uniform radius like the '55. Revell did a btter job on the 1956 Del Ray. On the 1:1, it is almost not noticable unless you look for it, It takes just a little sanding to make it look a lot better.

'29 on '32 rails - yep, had to check the calendar - it's not April 1 I'll be bugging every hobby shop in town.

paint it all - if I don't, the spot that I didn't paint will be something visible for sure... (should that be posted in you must be a model builder if ...) I used to leave the sides of the interior tub and the inside of the body bare - sure enough could see down thru the window into the gap between the body and interior to see unpainted/ plastic and overspray - that's a difficult spot to touch up later.

OK, remember i like the lazy solution... and sometimes lack of patience - just some simple ideas i remove the wipers and rescribe the windshield molding. i just leave the remaining cowl vent openinings without scribing in the slots where the wipers were - doesn't look too bad. On a gasser, minor cutomizing is permitted if it does not affect performance - so I'd probably sand the vents down below the surface so they don't reappear and fill them in completly.

That old printer enclosure looks like a good spray booth It might be OK to store the compressor in the spray booth cabinent when you are not using it - but it would work better if it wasn't running so close to where you are painting. If the compressor is small enough to fit inside the spary booth, then I'm guessing that it does not have a storage tank. If that's the case, it's good to have a length of hose - about 10 feet may be good - to absorb and even out the pulsation in the air line from the compressor. Good smoth air flow is a requirement. It's also good to keep the compressor out of the area to avoid contamination or stirring up the air and dirt around the spary booth - It's one more thng that can wreck a piant job.

Very cool! - looks ready to make a run - I appreciate the extra effort that you made to use the rule book. Yeah, I hope you get to move SpeedWeek off the bucket list but beware, there is no known cure for salt fever!

April 18, 2015, 9AM-4PM 25th Annual - Pacific NW Model Car Fest New Location! Red Lion Inn at the Quay, 100 Clumbia Street, Vancouver WA Info - http://www.sabanw.com/ More Northwest model car events at - http://www.sabanw.com/2015-pnw-model-events/ - (more to be added)

Thanks Bill - i used this yeserday

I like LDO's idea - A turned ring would be a precise fixture. I'm a litle lazier and cruder. I've bent a ring out of .030 brass stock so I can slide it over the part to clear the lip on rim. Simply bent around anthing round about the right size. It just has to be close to round and fit under the jaws of the chuck. Even cruder, I've just used pieces of thicker brass stock under each of the three jaws. The brass protects the aluminum of the part.