Muncie

You won't believe it, but I heard about the smoke in Grand Forks on our local weather forecast last week... (We had it here in the Pacific Northwest a couple of years ago)

I'm not familiar with CA DMV or smog but have heard similar problems with registration from across the country. DMV and smog are a couple of things that can get you many answers for the same question - different people at the same counter may even have different answers. You can even get different answers from the same person depending on time of day... The answer just before quitting time ahead of a three-day weekend will be different than the answer earlier in the day or earlier in the week. Just human nature. Be polite and keep asking - you'll find the person that will help you get thru the system. You are not the only person in this situation, you will get it done.

Awesome pictures, much appreciated, thank you for posting.

Slixx Decals Slixx Decals Inc. Mike's Decals - mostly NASCAR Mike's Decals (mikesdecals.com)

Lacquer dries by evaporation of the thinner and other volatiles in the paint but remains more or less soluble. The same holds true for lacquer spot putty or most model building fillers that we use around here. Repeating the same steps, no matter how much time elapses, will probably create the same issue. As the thinner in the new paint reacts to the old paint, it may also get to the plastic and bodywork below. Adding a good layer of sealer or primer-sealer will create a barrier between old and new lacquer. Sometimes it takes a couple of good coats of sealer, but most sealers are very thin and spray straight form the can.

sits right, great wheels, this is going to be cool!

I'm going to believe this set of headers is from the Monogram 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air. Monogram may have also used this header in other kits with small block Chevy.

looks like the trailer could double as a sky launcher... that is just way too cool! love it.

Oh My!, this is so cool. Like your work on the body. I always liked the looks of the Revell Vega body, but it looked a little off. Your changes make a difference.

I agree with every comment posted here. Well researched and well done. I built one of these out of the box in my early model building days. It is lost to time, but I have another kit...

The standard sealed beam U.S. headlamps are 7" round and 5-3/4 round. Same for the European halogen lamps with replaceable bulbs. (so the 6mm lens may look OK) However, the model car headlamp sizes in kits seem to vary a lot. A Brief History Of Sealed Beam Headlamps In The U.S. (carid.com) Put me on the list for some good aftermarket lenses. CTM aka, Czech Truck Model has some replacements that look pretty good and are available for reasonable money from the usual truck model vendors. Your Local Hobby Shop may have some accessory pieces in the Gundam section to do the job.

For a heavy-duty truck, standard wheelbase is a grain of salt thing. The spec sheet will have a standard wheelbase, but heavy-duty trucks can be ordered with almost any wheelbase in one inch increments. The standard wheelbase is for a truck without any options. Add a sleeper on the order and the wheelbase is increased. The wheelbase may be a later modification. When trucks see a few years, they start getting modified for a second or third owner The pictures in the other thread show a big gap between the cab and the front of the trailer like a sleeper had been removed.

That is very cool! factory fresh.

Looks great, safe travels Marc.

Thank you SteveG. I'm looking forward to the Chevelle AWB kit, especially with the vinyl tires which I see as good news. The plastic two-piece slicks always had a taper and the plastic two-piece fronts had no tread - just a draft angle to get them out of the molds. Sometimes, depending how my day was going, they were difficult to assemble. Hoping the vinyl tires will be available as a parts pack. I don't think this size has ever been available in vinyl and they can be used on many other cars. One less thing to tool if more new AWB and drag racing kits are in the pipeline.

Sorry, not much help here... Had to get a Krylon spray can last week for a different project (not a model car). I tried to match an old can of Fusion 2328 Pepper Red. Krylon was bought by Sherwin Williams a few years ago but the local S/W store had only a small selection. The local big farm and home improvement stores that I tried didn't have Krylon and were completely changed over to Rust-oleum products. A big box store had a few cans - it looked like they were closing out spray cans altogether. They used to have a 60 foot row of spray paint. O'Riley's and NAPA had only a small selection of Krylon. After checking ten places, NAPA had Pepper Red but with a new number. I'm hoping it is close enough.

The camper probably never existed... but it looks like one that I'm sure I saw in an advertisement in the back of Popular Science or Popular Mechanics magazines back in 1963. Yeah, I don't think I would trust my memory 60 years either.

Thanks James, Tim, and all the rest. Looks like it's going to be a good year. Round 2 is doing a great job with their philosophy on reissues of old favorites. The Ford pickups even have new separate bumpers and grille in place of the old one-piece units.

Very nicely done, great use of a cool kit with color selection and different levels of shine. I can remember building one of these on a Christmas morning... it was a long time ago.

Curt Raitz, you can PM him here on the forum, still has the CD with all issues of Motor Racing Replica News. MRRN is well worth having as "An historic racing car journal for model car builders" Published by Mike Quaterman in 1991 to... I think the magazine had about 30 issues. Each issue contains well researched technical text with lots of drawings and photographs of race cars - sports cars, Indy, some are then current, and some vintage. North American, European...

Each time you post the latest work, I look, I close my eyes and chuckle under my breath because this must be impossible... can't be real... I open my eyes and look and still in my total disbelief, it is real!

Agree with your observations about NHRA - they have almost completely lost my interest. I remeber that I could go to a regional race and see competitive local pro-stock and funny cars that were run by people that I knew. Now, it's just two mega pro-stock teams

lots of custom options add to the variety. The older triangular emblem was used all the way up to the change from White Freightliner to Freightliner - 1975ish in U.S. 1978ish in Canada. it was the standard emblem on COE's. The rectangular grille emblem was standard with frontal engine air intake and the triangle emblem was standard with other air intake systems (stationary stack(s) back of cab, breaking air, etc). Or, you could order the frontal air emblem/grille as an option with the other air intakes, until Freightliner made it standard on all COE's - and then no more triangles. Based on the options in the AMT dual drive kit, things like the early design fabricated under door & ladder steps, the initial on the sleeper curtain, and dual exhaust... I believe it was a Freightliner show truck with some pre-production parts to give the customers and dealers something to look at. Such a truck would not have the wedge brakes like the AMT kit, but that was a carryover from the CF single drive.

I remember listening to a commercial free FM station in my younger days - good rock and roll, album cuts and full album previews late at night in the times of LP records - very cool! Not a college station, but they didn't play the same things every other station played. The alternative link. But, it was at a time when not very many cars had FM radios. There are still couple of commercial free FM stations getting by in the area that I can think of.

be slow, careful, and cautious - most lacquer thinner now days is mostly acetone and it will attack the plastic. If it gets too much (any?) on the plastic, it will shrink or leave a mark that will only show sometime after paint... Lacquer paints can be used on a kit if the paint is made for plastic kits (like Tamiya) or a proper sealer is applied before the lacquer (not trying to get into that question again)