Snake45

Looks like my friend made it in finally. Thanks Dave!

Got the Skylark done for our SIXTH COMPLETION! Pics up later today or tomorrow!

Very sharp looking, very clean build! Well done and model on!

Just realized, "most involved" doesn't necessary mean "hardest" or "most hated" or "most dreaded" or some such thing, which many of us seem to have used when answering the question. Been a while since I built a full-detail kit new from the box, so I just realized that for me, the most involved part of such a build is removing ALL molding lines and other traces of the styrene injection process from all the chassis pieces, engine detail parts, interior parts, and so forth. And on what I call an "A Build," I'm quite fanatical about the task. This is probably why I don't do many "A Builds" these days.

Put a droplet where you want the mirror to go, and another drop on the stem of the mirror. Let them stand for about a minute or so to get tacky, then press the two together.

Same here. I'll sometimes wipe a model down with rubbing alcohol to de-grease it, but I don't routinely "abrasive prep" plastic that I haven't otherwise had to work by sanding and so forth.

GO! GO! GITTER DONE! About all I have to do on the Skylark is the black detail on the grille and back panel. Will probably do that tomorrow.

Dave, I have a friend trying to join here, but says there's a problem with the captcha thing that won't work for him. He says this link describes the problem and how to fix it at your end. Thanks! https://community.mybb.com/thread-219031.html

Most model airplanes haven't had rivets like that in 50 years, and when we see them on old kits today, we usually sand them off.

That's not much to go on. I'd like to buy another clue, Pat.

The '69 chassis will be too short.

I recently acquired one of these molded in green. I'm looking forward to polishing the green plastic up and adding to my Polished Plastic collection.

Congrats Cheyenne93, you GOTTER DONE and you're our 5th completion this round! And it looks fabulous! The tall skinny tires make a big difference! Well done and model on!

Hey! I resemble that remark!

I noticed the wheelbase problem and that's easily fixed. Dunno how much trouble it would be to fix the 2" difference in the body sides but it doesn't look to me like you're gonna GITTER DONE this round. You can of course carry it over to the next round, BUT if you start with new bodies, it's no longer the 30-YO project and wouldn't be eligible for the BOYD build. Why not go ahead and finish this one up in the next round, and then use your new bodies to start an all-new build, using what you learned doing this one?

Good call on filling those troughs. The model is rare and interesting enough to make it worth the extra effort. Drive on!

Finished the foilwork on my '66 Skylark, and got the black trim on the Buick sport wheels, both tasks I'd been dreading. Have started Silver Sharpie-ing the window trim. I think I'm on track to get it finished by the end of the month. I hope.

Yup. And keep no more than the absolute minimum in it.

Didn't get anything new, but I did discover something new and interesting. Just happened to have both the AMT '66 Skylark and the MPC '67 GTO on the bench, and wondered how they compared in size to the Maisto "1/24" diecast '66 Chevelle. The Chevelle's wheelbase is just a little longer than the Skylark's, but the overall length and the width at both ends is VERY similar. The Chevelle's wheelbase is just a little shorter than the GTO's, but again, overall length and width at both ends is very similar. Conclusion: The Maisto Chevelle is actually 1/25, or closer to 1/25 than 1/24, or close enough to sit on the shelf with my 1/25 models. This is exciting because the Lindberg '66 Chevelle has some shape issues (maybe assembly issues, too), and the Maisto diecast's shape is quite good. The Marina Blue paint on mine is also quite good. Might be time to see what other colors these are available in.

I had been looking for a particular book since the 1970s. When I got on the net around 2000, I soon discovered ABEBooks.com and found a copy at a very reasonable price in minutes!

Very nice, very sharp! You're getting better with every new completion. Well done and model on!

Concentrate on making them fit, DON'T worry about making them symmetrical, much less "perfectly" so. Many--maybe even most?--real-word headers of the day weren't perfectly symmetrical. They were interested in function and fit, not form, and besides, you can't even see both sides at the same time once they're installed. Hope this helps!

Absolutely fabulous! I think this model perfectly embodies both the letter and the spirit of this build--full race underneath but would hardly rate a second glance on the outside. VERY well done and model on!

Take out the space between the @ and the AOL.