Snake45

Yah, even if they had to use the '69 body. I'd buy at least one.

Call me Plisskin.

Depends on the type of glue and how much of it there is. If it's not bad, you can sand the area flush and then polish it back to crystal clarity. I've pulled this off a few times. But I've also seen old tube glue "dig in" well below the surface so far it can't be polished out. Oh you can get it all smooth and shiny but there will always be a "white fog" spot there.

It's not really that, either, as it's a '66 body and not a '65.

Would you drive it with a load? Would you drive it fast in Hot Rode Mode?

I'd have no problem using common Testor Little Bottle #8 light blue for a pre-'66 Pontiac engine. And almost certainly will, at some point.

Doesn't look bad at all. If I had any interest in that car at all, you would have just sold me on getting one!

I built that model and took it to the body shop with my real one and said "Make THAT look like THIS!" My car had a blue interior so so does the model. I painted it with airbrushed Pactra Steel back in the day, I don't remember what the clearcoat is but it doesn't look "bronze" in real life, just metallic/steel gray. I think the gold tone is just dirt/dust on the ancient model. My real one didn't have mags, just naked Chevy Rally Wheels.

Roth meets Steampunk meets Dr. Seuss meets Timothy Leary!

This one went right to the top of my To Do list and I accomplished the restoration this weekend (along with a gray '66 fastback). Pics Under Glass as soon as I get time to take them and do the writeup. It makes me as happy as anything I've built in the last year.

Don't forget to sand off those molding lines right above the scoop.

Exactly my first reaction. The Seuss thing was second.

If that had been an option, I would have. Both colors have been long discontinued.

Looks like something The Cat In The Hat would drive. Hard pass here.

What scale is it? I saw some smaller diecasts in a display right at the Walmart checkout counter yesterday. Didn't really pay attention if they were 1/32 or 1/43, but somewhere in there, nor did I check the price. I just saw they were "too small" and got on with my life.

True. Molded closed, as on the original '67 Corvette hoods (which were open at the rear for cowl induction). However, on the '67 Vette, and on many of the "inspired by" clones, this area was painted black, which I personally think looks better. But I've seen them both ways, and to each his own.

Went searching for a couple bottles of old Model Master paint I KNEW I had deep in the bowels of the Snakepit and actually found them without too much trouble. One turned out to be a near perfect match for the color I needed; the other might be close enough to get by.

VERY clean build! I daresay, that's about as well as that kit can be built. Well done and model on!

Chris, I have an idea that might interest you. Drop me an email at SnakeACP45 at aol dot com.

Believe it or not, I had my first (real) '69 Camaro painted almost that exact gray in 1978!

Fabulous! I'm gonna totally steal this trick to make some custom taillights. Only thing I'd add is, use a NEW file to make sure you haven't got any nicks. Silly Putty will "melt" out at room temperature. Maybe put it in the fridge for a bit, or even let the casting cure right in the fridge.

Never used it. I think it came out after I discovered liquid cements and superglue. I last bought a tube of "model glue"--Testor orange tube--back in the '70 and I still have it, unopened, today. Might be a collector's item.

Most of the Accurate Miniatures molds live on under other names.

Wow, that looks great! Don't think I've ever seen a Speedwagon in red before but it really works with the wood. Well done and model on!

They almost look like taillights--or maybe even the turn signals or square headlights--from something, but I can't come up with an exact match off the top of my head. Someone else might see it.