peteski

Eh, it is just a new generation of designers styling new generation cars. They probably think it looks cool (or whatever the current word for "cool" is).

That is great, but this section of the forum is dedicated to discussions about the Model Cars Magazine, not about the MCM forum.

Funny thing is that I would never think of trying to make a model of hail damaged vehicles. That's IMO ugly. But I guess if you see enough of those cars, they might grow on you.

When spraying flexible plastic parts with automotive paints shouldn't adhesion promoted be used? That is how things were done back before waterborne paints. I have no experience with those.

Sure, for reducing the paint for airbrushing. But the question being asked was specifically about cleaning brushes (likely not to waste the expensive thinners).

Well yes, we are both speculating here.

Even so, why sand those hundreds of thin "grate" like pieces? Those are so small that they probably aren't textured. And even if they were, that texture would disappear under a coat of primer, color and possibly clear. If I was painting those to match the car color, I would probably mask and paint those thin grate-like parts black, so they not be visible.

Well hopefully after he returns from vacation. In our hobbies we often have to wait for things (weeks, months years).

Why do you ask? Do you normally use water-based paints? Rubbing alcohol (either 70 or 91%) )is too weak to clean your brushes well. "Well" is the keyword. Lacquer thinner (generic from hardware store is fine) is the way to go. Acetone will also work.

Ok, then those are printed in Italy (by Cartograf). Those are best quality decals in the world, and the are super thin (read: very fragile). Nothing like the old Revell decals which were almost as thick as peel-n-stick stickers. Cartograf decals also respond to setting solutions well. Because they are so thin and fragile, they have to be applied very, very carefully. But when they dry, they look like they are painted on.

Yea, that seemed like a good idea when I heard about it. I only used that stuff once and never again! The plastic foil has texture and when it is peeled off the model, the edges of the bumps in the foll left some adhesive on the model. It was a real paint to clean off. Once burned, twice shy. I have plenty of alternatives not needing Press-n-Seal.

Does the decal sheet have any written identification (like Made in Italy)?

Thanks for the follow up. The whole thing made no sense, and now we know why. Strange substance on the plastic affecting paint's drying/curing.

It's not without issues. We have a good comparison here in this forum:

That's a lot of sanding! But why sand bare plastic? Unless you use water-based paints, the "stinky" paints will stick really well to plastic. No sanding should be required. And if you really want to scuff the plastic, maybe just use a small brass-bristle brush on the zillion of those little squares. Sometimes those are called "suede brush".

Give this man a prize!

LOL! You gave me a good chuckle. Why not spell the words correctly anyway? It is not like it takes longer to do that. What makes me roll my eyes is people spelling "Testors" as "Testers", but that is probably that auto-correct features on their schmart-devices.

Looks like a nice kit (or since it needs no glue, should it be called a "puzzle")? So the 1:1 bike has wheels made form carbon fiber? Interesting.

Very good. But there is a whole generation of parent drivers who do not know anything about defensive driving (or even how to change a tire). They already have teenage kids but they can't teach those kids how to drive defensively. The other problem is the "smart cars" we drive today. Not even the latest "safety gadgets" but even just the basic anti-lock brakes and traction control make defensive driving very difficult. The control of your car has been taken away from you . . . by your own car.

I am surprised how well it settled over that script.

This is the stuff BMF came up with after Detail Master started makign their Chrome Foil. I bout one sheet of both types and deemed unusable for chrome trim. That was probably about 20 years ago. Still have them and the only use I can possible see for it is some simple flat trim which doesn't have any deep features or curves. This stuff is basically thin aluminum foil with adhesive on the back. Very stiff. Unlike the original "chrome" BMF which is some sort of very thin and soft metal foil. You came up with an interesting application for it.

In today's all-encompassing world, there is no single (Caucasian) flesh color. There is a whole range of flesh colors. Not that there is anythign wrong with that.

There were photos of couple of models and I didn't realize that one of those was the one for which this thread started. Is the Revell '68 Chevelle a currently produced model, or an older one? Made in USA, China or Poland?

No kidding. I have no idea what that phrase means. I built this "BMF" '57 Chevy Bel Air back in early '90s (30 years ago) and this photo was taken in 2020. Looks the same as the day I finished it. What is supposed to happen with the BMF? Should it just disintegrate?

I have not bought many Revell kits lately, but I know back in the '80s Revell decals had very thick and stiff film that was very shiny. But Revell of Germany has decals printed by Cartograf in Italy - a world renown maker of very high quality decals. Those decals (like the ones in the recent Jaguar XK) have "Made in Italy" wording on them. Some of the Tamiya kits (usually military subjects) also have Cartograf decals. The originator of this thread never mentioned the actual kit or its age. Without that info we are just spewing generalities.