peteski

Meh, that is a snap kit. Doesn't count, plus it is likely targeting adult Lego addicts. Did you see the $45,000 scratch-built USS Arizona model discussed in the Crew Lounge?

I don't think he is back. If he was, wouldn't the shopping bag/cart be enabled?

Just like painting techniques, many of us seem to have similar but different ways working with CA adhesive. I make my own applicators from sewing needles with handles made from 1/8" Plexiglas rod. When they clog I just scrape them off with a used #11 blade. The Microbrushes are fro applying accelerator. To hold a small amounts of glue I place a piece of kitchen aluminum foil over a dental cup and press it in to make a concave "well". When that gets nasty, I peel off the foil and make a fresh one.

There even is a Wikipedia article on them: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

Assuming that Greg knows how to edit his post in the first place. To edit pull down the menu hiding behind 3 dots (...) in the upper right corner of your post.

Many military models come with hard resin cast tires, and after painting and weathering they look like real rubber tires. Most aircraft models also have hard plastic tires.

The name states "acrylic". That should be clear. . Acrylic and (poly)urethane are different types of polymers, both used as binders in paints. They are mutually exclusive. Acrylic is not polyurethane, and vice-versa. Binder is the "body" of the paint. Normally it binds the pigment (color) of the paint together and also adheres to the painted surface, but in case of clear paints, there is no pigment. Basically binder is the stuff that is left on the models surface after the solvent evaporates.

You wanted to learn about "our opinions". I believe that you succeeded in that, beyond your wildest expectations. The 7 pages of this thread contain *LOTS* of opinions sprinkled in between other stuff. To me this seems like a typical mix of comments seen in any online forum. Also, a lot of going in circles. To be honest, I expected this thread to be locked some time ago (when no more useful posts were being added), but that didn't' happen, and we are still keeping the thread going.

Those tires look decent (shape and detail wise). If they really a hard plastic then any paint should stick well to them. There are satin or flat "rubber" color paints available, or just use a very dark gray (as rubber tires aren't truly black).

Ace makes excellent point. When you build a model kit as a kid, you brush painted the pieces using some Testors PLA enamel from little glass bottles, then maybe even gave the body quick spray from a can of hobby paint (both plastic compatible paints), then using Testors orange tube cement, you slapped it together. What you had was a toy car. If you now (as an adult) want to build a detailed miniature replica (not a mere toy), you will end up using advanced techniques which include chemicals not designed to go on plastic or which might not be compatible. There is lots of trial and error involved to achieve the perfection. There are no written formulas as to what is compatible with what, and even if there were, paint companies often change paint formulas, so what worked last year might not work now. You have to face the reality. I suspect that this adult model kit building might not be a good hobby for you.

To be blunt, every time you asked the forum for advice, after receiving it you either disagree with the advice, or ignore it. Why do you even bother? You might as well stop asking us questions. IT IS A HOBBY - HOBBIES COST MONEY, ENERGY AND TIME! THAT IS TO BE EXPECTED. Hobbies can also provide pleasure or frustration - it is up to you to figure out which. Take another hobby, like golf for example: the golf equipment is expensive, golf course fees are expansive, and you suck at at first. You need to spend time and money to get what is needed, listen to advice from the experts, and then spend more time and energy for lots of practice (to get good at it). Model cars hobby is no different from golf. Just like with golf -- there are no shortcuts or some easy way to magically become good at it.

Since you are new here, in case you don't know, you don't have to re-upload all the seem photos from this thread to post them to the "Under Glass" section. That will also save storage space of the forum. First start the new thread in Under Glass, then open up another tab (assuming you are using a tabbed browser), then go to the forum's website, (you should already be logged in), then left-click on your user name (upper left cornet), then in that menu, select "my attachments". That will show you a list of all the the photos you ever uploaded to the form. Click on any photo you want to upload to the new thread. That will bring a photo viewer. Click again on the photo in the viewer and that will bring the original full size photo up in another tab. Now just copy the photo's URL and paste to the new thread. That will show that photo in the compose window of the new thread. Then just continue doing this for all the photos you uploaded earlier. It sounds more complicated than it really is (once you do this couple of times).

Sounds like you good good results. I would however stay away from the 122 deg. temperature when drying resin parts. Some resins might be ok, while others might not do well at that temperature. My dehydrator runs around 100-110, but I also dry the parts for 10 hours or more. As far as the paint hardness goes, you are probably correct. Resin, to begin with, is softer than metal, and there could also be some sort of chemical interaction between the resin and paint.

What impressed me on this model is that you smoothed out the seam on top of the transmission housing and on the bell. Once the engine is installed, nobody will see that area, but this kind of attention to detail shows that you are a good and fastidious modeler. I see many models (otherwise well-built) on this forum where that seam is left visible.

Not just "acrylics" as that is a general term (often misused by modelers) since acrylic-based paints can use organic "hot" solvents, or water-based solvents. Like Rob de Bie mentioned the type of solvent probably makes the difference. Creatax are water-based acrylic paints, so you are most likely correct -- those paints will not cause any dye leaching.

Funny how we see things differently. Chrome? What chrome? There is barely any chrome on the original (compare it to its contemporary American cars). IMO, it had very restrained chrome trim. Window surrounds, headlight cover surrounds, and bumpers. Can't really be any less on a car from that era. As far as "a lot of stuff just stuck on", to me the new one is much busier looking with "stuff" stuck to the sides. Plus, as the photos show, the now one looks too "heavy" or "portly", where the old one looks much "lighter" (svelte, more sporty). Overall, its shape looks cleaner.

To me it looks to bulky (heavy), the sides are too busy with all those "features" tacked on, and that heavy molding in the middle. The large silver wheels with low-profile tires also throw it out of balance.

Good find! Too bad Harry's photos are stuck in Photobucket's "purgatory".

Just like amazon, or eBay, you can find the same item (or a kit) listed for a wide range of prices. From low to outrageous. Walmart, just like those other sites, is simply providing a service to outside sellers to sell their wares (for whatever prices they want to charge). In that the Walmart is no different than eBay or amazon.

Funny, I didn't do any research, but as soon as I saw that photo, I thought to myself that it has some of the Mazda Cosmo "flavor". Looks like I was right. I didn't know that Mazda produced a new "retro" version. I'm not a fan of the new version -- the original looked much better.

Interesting detail, but aren't those already molded on the engine blocks?

Looks like very nice replica! The figures look good too!

The Super Scenes show up on eBay. If you look for "addar super scenes" there are currently 7 kits available, but the price is way, way north of the original price. As for Addar company, according to https://www.oldmodelkits.com/index.php?manu=Addar "Addar was an attempt by ex-Aurora employees to carry on the name when Aurora went under."

I've been working 4 X 10 night shift (four 10-hour nights 8pm-6am) for about 20 years now and I like it! I'm in my 50s now. I'm a night owl and stay up overnight on my weekends too. I find it difficult to adjust to regular daytime hours. I don't drink coffee at all, and have an occasional Coca-Cola, Mountain Dew (in those little 8oz. cans), and sometimes some sweetened Ice Tea. But I drink those usually during the daytime or weekends. While working I mostly drink water.

You either have super hard dykes, or you don't mind that the piano wire being cut damages the jaws. I tried that once and the wire damaged the cutting edges. What brand of dykes are you using?