peteski

Many retailers were killed off by giants liek Walmart or even the Internet online sales. K-mart is fading? You mean it has faded. They have closed up some time ago. Several years ago there was a merger of Sears and K-mart, since both companies were struggling, then they both went done the tubes. It is ironic that Sears was one of the first mail order catalog companies, yet they failed to become a viable online (mail order) retailer. I miss both Sears and K-mart. I also miss Bradlees, Zayres, Caldor, and Stewards. Oh there was Ann & Hope too. It was nice to have several department stores to shop at.

I'm glad that you finally found a company that produced decals that you are happy with. Yes, I've dealt with Highball graphics when they still used Alps printer for some of their decals (and some were laser-printed). One thing that a laser printer can't do is print metallic gold and sliver (which Alps can). But if you do not need that, then a 5-toners laser printer is the way to go.

Yes the genuine LEGOs (not the cheap knockoffs) are very precisely molded, and have uses in our modeling tasks (like building an enclosure for pouring RTV molds, or the task documented here.

Actually it was me suggesting title change. To edit your own post click on the 3-dots on the upper right of the post. There will be 2 or 3 options available (the 3rd choice would be "edit"). But they only give a limited time to edit your posts (like a day or two), so it is probably too late now.

Yes, like Steve said, Tamiya tape (burnished well) is good for multi-color paint jobs.

I wouldn't worry too much. The newsmedia over-hypes its deadly effects (especially without prolonged exposure). UV rays are also handy for killing molds and bacteria. If you worried, leave the kit's parts exposed to sunlight for a week - that should kill off any bad stuff. There are multiple types of black mold. Here are couple of examples (if you feel like reading). https://www.cdc.gov/mold/stachy.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhizopus_stolonifer

Tamiya tape (also Washi tape) adhesive is fairly low-tack. It is a desired feature. If you combine low-tack with narrow tape the yes, it will appear nto to stick well, especially if it is used over flat finish paint.

And what browser?

I guess then maybe @Dave Ambrose can look into what the problem is. What kind of device and OS version, and browser do you use to access the forum? That info should help him in figuring out the problem. I use a Dell laptop and Windows 7 with Seamonkey (Mozilla-based) browser.

OK, what device and operating system are you using to access this forum? As for testing whether you can or can't post the photos, why not just try it on the "Can't see the pictures" thread you also posted in. Just pick some photos on Fotki and see if it will show up in your post. If I can post your photos using the information that you tried, hopefully you should be able to do the same yourself.

The info for inserting photos into the forum is in all the links you tried. Just a simple URL. Just take the part of any of your codes starting with "https" and ending with "jpg", then paste that string directly into the text window of where you are composing your post. Once you do that, the URL you just pasted should automatically expand into the actual photo. At least it works that way for me. I'm not on Fotki but on other photo sites I tried, when you selected "share photo" they all gave an option for a direct link to the photo. That is what I'm talking about (starts with "https" and ends with "jpg").

Dave Ambrose, this change in the way the forum interprets the links to externally hosted photos seems to be causing quite a bit of pain and confusion. Is there any way to change some forum setting so it accepted the photos the way the previous version of the forum did?

Charles, I'm not sure how you are inserting the photo, but it seems that you are using the "Link" button instead of just taking the photo's URL and just pasting it directly into the text editing area. Here is one of your photos which i inserted that way:

Your photos will show up if you properly insert them in the post.

You should be able to add photos if you don't use the "BBS code" from the photo server. Use direct link instead. Or strip the [IMG][/IMG] wrapper from the links you are using. It is the new version of the forum's software choking on the BBS code.

Another silk purse made from sow's ear! Wonderful!

Kurt, if you are using "BBS code" from Flicker ( the actual URL of the image is surrounded by [IMG] [/IMG]) then the new version of the forum does not accept that, and shows it as a link in your post. Use direct link to your photo, or strip the [IMG][/IMG] tags when you are pasting the link into your post.

C1 offers several wheel choices, plus there is the the kit's wire wheels option. Also Model Builder's Warehouse sells 3D printed Borrani wire wheels that with some modification can be adapted to this kit.

The latest forum software update doesn't accept the BBS codes for images generated from online photo sites. But it happily accepts the image's URL after stripping the [IMG][/IMG] tags. Which is what I did here. I simply took the URLs from Mark's post and pasted them in this post.

Yes, this is an interesting topic, but the title stinks! It is too nebulous. It looks to me more like you have a generic question about mini lathes (those questions show up here from time to time). If you titled it "Unimat 3 mini lathe upgrade", or "Unimat 3 mini lathe modification" that would be much more informative. Owning a Sheline lathe, I think that a 3-phase motor is a bit of an overkill, but heck, if it works for you then all is good.

Yes, this example shows that using the same metalizing process as is used on 1:1 cars is not the best choice for plastic models. Vacuum metalizing "chroming" using a thin layer of aluminum is much easier to work with. That process is also likely be less expensive than what Salvino's or Trumpeter used. Not sure why they went with the electroplating method.

Yes vinyl or rubber can react with the sticky adhesive on vinyl stickers.

There are many types of plastic resins. Yes, it is all "resin" (not just the Polyurethane resin models cast by small cottage industry which we call "resin" while calling the mass-produced kits "plastic" or "styrene"). In my experience Polystyrene (resin) is quite stable, while others (including 3D resins) might not be as stable. If there are no UV blockers added then prolonged exposure to sunlight will make any plastic resin surface deteriorate. The cheap lawn chairs (those are *NOT* made from Polystyrene but other resins - check the recycling symbol) probably do not have any UV blockers added, so they get "chalky" sitting outside. But our Polystyrene or ABS model kits will likely all outlast us. Most are also painted, and that also provides some amount of UV blocking. I think we have nothing to worry about when it comes to the Polystyrene (or ABS) models.

Isn't @Snake45 interested in models molded in green? Maybe he'll want it?

Perfect! Those pictures are worth a 1000 words (I didn't have any pictures handy). I also have Waldron and Micro-Mark punch sets, but the brass tubing punches work very well for thin items like BMF (or thin styrene).