peteski

I suspect that just like on this side of the pond, Lye is used for unclogging drains. Check the ingredients on those products. Same goes for oven cleaners. Check if they contain Lye. If they do, then those should strip "chrome" and paint from plastics. Lye is also also used for making soap (and that seems to be one of today;s hobbies) You might also be able to buy Lye from a chemical supply dealer. Just remember never to add water to lye. Always slowly add lye to water. https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/back-to-basics-lye-safety-guide/

You're welcome. Looks like it was me who wasn't paying attention. I use CA all the time and I don't recall the last time I glued my fingers to anything. And when I did, it was likely not while using the glue on a model, but accidentally spilling it. But (as I showed in the other thread) I rarely apply it to the glue joint directly from the applicator on the bottle. And if I do, it is never the thin CA, but usually medium or thick viscosity. Thanks for providing the name of those little dental cups. I had no ideal they were called Dappen glasses. They are very handy for modeling tasks. They are heavy, and stable on the bench, and perfect as vessels for holding small amounts of paint or glue. As I mentioned, I also find the AC accelerator to be indispensable for my modeling. And after trying several brands, I find that the BSI brand is by far the best. Funny company name, (Bob Smith industries), but excellent products. Bob Smith sounds like a generic name someone would give when checking into a hotel.

Wow! Thanks Casey! I thought these were long out of production and gone forever. Those Tripart meshes are excellent (much better and finer that any other photoetched mesh I have ever found). They also made some really fine piano hinges, but I think those are long gone.

I think he wants to be like those Dollar Store craft acrylic paints. A buck per bottle.

I think you combined the statements I made in separate posts. I didn't say that CA glue was the "right" way. I use multiple adhesives when I build models,, and even mutliple viscosity of CA glue. The "right" statement was specifically about gluing prepainted parts. I agree that the extra thin CA is very runny, but it has its applications. If for what you're using it, it makes a mess, use a thicker viscosity CA, and set it quickly after you align the parts, with a dab of BSI brand accelerator applied on a Micro-brush. I don't want to hijack this thread to discuss CA glue, but if you want, check out the following thread and my replies there, showing what CA glue and glue applicators II use.

When browsing the forum on Windows PC I see no difference in behavior (including photo upload) before and after it was moved to a new server. Either way, it was not a forum software update - just moving the same version of forum from one piece of hardware to another. At least that is what I believe has occurred. Seems to me that the problem is likely on your end (your device).

Thanks Michael. So those large lights were raided from other kits, not an aftermarket items. You have good eye for realism!

Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves. It is some sort of a plastic (vinyl?) tape.

When gluing halves of (unpainted) objects that have rough surface (like a transmission casting), and using a pointy brush to flow thin liquid cement into the joint, even if some cement gets outside of the joint, it will evaporate quickly, not really affecting the surface finish. When the joint is then smoothed and painted there will not be any visible scars from where the glue got outside the joint. If you paint the parts before gluing, then you;re on your own (and you will have a visible seam, regardless whether any glue got outside the joint or not).

Very well done! Both, the model and the photography.

As long as those ignored things are *NOT* on the model.

With COVID-19, you might have hard time finding Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. You do need at least 91%. I buy mine (99%) in gallon size tin can at a hardware store. It is in the paint thinner section and it is usually called IPA99 or Isopropanol99. If they don't have it in stock, they should be able to special-order it for you. It will probably cost $30, but it is as strong as you can find (still safe on kit's plastic).

Then you're not doing it right. MY preferred glue for models (of all types) is CA (and accelerator).

Edsels? That is interesting - thanks Brian. In use from 1926-1958? That's over 30 years!

That looks great! Looks like it just came back from a Safari, or an archeological expedition in a desert! Who makes those great looking lights on the roof rack?

I believe that DUCO cement is very similar to the Testors "orange stuff".

Well, I guess it might be in the semantics. Whatever we call it, the fact is that the color of the plastic is affecting the color of the primer (and likely would affect the color of the final paint coat (especially it the chosen color was a light color).

I have to laugh. The color bleed from red, orange, yellow colored plastic has been brought up and shown many times, yet there are still some modelers (here) who insist that the problem does not exist. Even if shown proof, they provide some explanation that it is not really a color bleed. LOL!

I have not used the Testors (not Testers) orange tube glue that I used as a kid, for close to 40 years now. I have not ever found myself thinking "hmm . . . this would be perfect application for the orange-tube stuff". Really.

I have used Tru-Corlor paints since they came out, and before that I have for decades used (now discontinued) Accu-Paint, which was very similar type pf paint. I mostly used those for model railroad hobby and detail paints for automotive models. Mostly airbrushing them (they are IMO not really very good for hand-brushing). Just to clarify things, the weathering colors are flat. Model RR colors are semi-gloss, so they are ready for decaling, but not as a top coat for a glossy car body finish. I have not yet used any automotive colors, so I can't comment on those.

Interesting. That user has been on eBay for 13 years (with over 1000 feedbacks), but it appears (from the feedbacks) that they just started selling now. That seller is shipping from Covington, Kentucky (if that is a clue).

The way it is photographed, it sure looks like a model.

This kit is amazing, and so is your build. I always wondered about the strange arrangement of the windscreen. Why is the bottom pane angled that way. Not as if the driver would ever look out from that vantage point. Maybe it is there so the birds flying overhead can look at the driver's feet? It makes no sense to me.

I have that kit (partially completed). Bought it when it was first issued. Another long-time project. . .

What about the building that is now Assembly Square Mall in Somerville, MA? Was that used by Ford at a later date?